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cooling system maintenence
- Thread starter WillWagner
- Start date
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Absolutely. These are cooling system features and it doesn't matter if it's gas or diesel. Probably no need for the additives, though, but they don't do any harm.
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- Near Muncie, Indiana
Great thread. Do the smaller M1009/M1008 diesel motors require this mix as well? I am flushing out my M1008 today. I have the TMs on order but they are not here yet..cranetruck said:
Thanks, Josh
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WooHoo! After a week or so, the Deuce is up and running! The radiator shop did a beautiful job on the radiator, asked them to try to save the paint, and they did. It was ultrasonicaly cleaned. It was 40% plugged and the lower neck was leaking. Ran some "Restore" through it after it was all together, flushed it out and re filled it with a 50/50 mix of Fleetguard Complete and H2O. It was 80 degrees here yesterday and even with the winter front on...the last month or so it has been down in the high 20's, low 30's in the AM..It still only ran at 180 degrees. It used to be at 200 on a long drive. I will take some pics of the lower hose I got from NAPA. It is very close to the stock hose. I only have one question. This engine was very slow to fill with water or coolant. I put a vent in the outlet of the intake to the stat housing and that helped a little. Anyone else seen this and have a remedy?
- 10,350
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- Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Yes, Will, the now more efficient cooling system will keep the op temp lower. I use my home made radiator cover at all times, even on my trip out West and back. Only removed it for long mountain climbs with the trailer in tow. It cools very quickly when driving down hill.
To fill the system, I drained the radiator, refilled with distilled water, ran the truck until t-stat opened, so that the coolant in the engine could mix with the radiator water. Then drained the radiator, refilled with water, ran the engine again. Did this 4 times with distilled water and finally the fifth time put the glycol/additive in the radiator for a final run and ended up with very nearly a fresh batch of coolant. It can be shown with numbers that a very small percentage of the original coolant remains after mixing and draining 5 times.
To speed up the process, the T-stat can be removed.
This process is also the principle operating procedure for a bypass filter, it takes a few cycles, but the result is a clear liquid, oil or coolant.
To fill the system, I drained the radiator, refilled with distilled water, ran the truck until t-stat opened, so that the coolant in the engine could mix with the radiator water. Then drained the radiator, refilled with water, ran the engine again. Did this 4 times with distilled water and finally the fifth time put the glycol/additive in the radiator for a final run and ended up with very nearly a fresh batch of coolant. It can be shown with numbers that a very small percentage of the original coolant remains after mixing and draining 5 times.
To speed up the process, the T-stat can be removed.
This process is also the principle operating procedure for a bypass filter, it takes a few cycles, but the result is a clear liquid, oil or coolant.
Polverone
Active member
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Bjorn,
Just curious as to the quart bottle of CDA60L DCA 4 shown in your picture next to the Texaco Coolant jugs.
What is it, the additive for diesel engine coolant?
Just curious as to the quart bottle of CDA60L DCA 4 shown in your picture next to the Texaco Coolant jugs.
What is it, the additive for diesel engine coolant?
Manstein
Chaplain Emeritus
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There are a lot of stories running around about compatibility of ethanol glycol and dexcool or "pink stuff."
Since GM was one of the pioneers here is what I know. The pink stuff is compatible with the green stuff and brass/copper/aluminum etc. The real issue is the architecture of your cooling system. The pink stuff doesn't react good with air over long periods of exposure. If you have a small leak or breathing gaskets like on the multifuels you are going to have a problem. Over long periods of exposure the pink stuff will coagulate and start building up solids that look like rusty water and in some cases solidify. This stuff should really be used in a sealed system with a pressurized surge tank and not in a pressure relief system like the vented cap on the deuce. It will work, but sooner or later you're going to have a big mess. It wont degrade the metal, gaskets or hoses but be safe. USE THE GREEN STUFF.
Since GM was one of the pioneers here is what I know. The pink stuff is compatible with the green stuff and brass/copper/aluminum etc. The real issue is the architecture of your cooling system. The pink stuff doesn't react good with air over long periods of exposure. If you have a small leak or breathing gaskets like on the multifuels you are going to have a problem. Over long periods of exposure the pink stuff will coagulate and start building up solids that look like rusty water and in some cases solidify. This stuff should really be used in a sealed system with a pressurized surge tank and not in a pressure relief system like the vented cap on the deuce. It will work, but sooner or later you're going to have a big mess. It wont degrade the metal, gaskets or hoses but be safe. USE THE GREEN STUFF.
Banshee365
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Will, did you have to remove the valve cover's to replace the coolant manifold hoses? Thanks!
-Kelly
-Kelly
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Nope, but I did when I did the head gaskets a month later! I was gonna suggest this thread to let you see the broken bolts, but I see you ahve already found it!
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Just a bump to the top, got a call today fom someone who broke a water manifold bolt off and wanted to see how I got it out.
sprucemt
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Anti-freeze and inhibitor
Here is a copy of a post from this past week in the duece mod section.
Here is another choice. I carry 5 gallon pails of the correct U.S. issue anti-freeze. Antifreeze, ethylene glycol, inhibited. Full force. MIL-A-46153C.
NSN 6850-00-181-7933. Mfg by Foural Enterprises. 5 gallon pail. This is what the government uses once the warranties expire.
You can in most cases, stop confusion by using products meeting MIL-Spec ?. In this case, with the anti-freeze, Mil-A-46153C. As I stated before, I carry issue anti-feeze in 5 gallon pails for $30.00 ($6.00 Gal) per pail plus freight.
Corrosion is the primary culprit for damage with diesel motors. This can be controlled by using, Corrosion Inhibitor, Liquid Cooling System. NSN 6850-01-085-4717. Mfg by Waltron LTD out of NJ or a similar product added to older anti-freeze. The container states,
Prevents engine cooling systems from corrosion, deposits and pitting,
Prevents silicate deposits,
Prevents cylinder liner pitting,
Eliminates high nitrite levels,
Special "bubble breaker" eliminates foaming and reduces cavitation potential.
In this case the name of the product is AQ-701. I do not carry this product.
Other Mfg's include NALCO Company, Penray Company and NALFLEET Inc.
It does not list a mil-spec but does meet,
General Motors Elecro-motive div spec M.I. 1748 rev c for diesel jacket cooling systems.
Here is a copy of a post from this past week in the duece mod section.
Here is another choice. I carry 5 gallon pails of the correct U.S. issue anti-freeze. Antifreeze, ethylene glycol, inhibited. Full force. MIL-A-46153C.
NSN 6850-00-181-7933. Mfg by Foural Enterprises. 5 gallon pail. This is what the government uses once the warranties expire.
You can in most cases, stop confusion by using products meeting MIL-Spec ?. In this case, with the anti-freeze, Mil-A-46153C. As I stated before, I carry issue anti-feeze in 5 gallon pails for $30.00 ($6.00 Gal) per pail plus freight.
Corrosion is the primary culprit for damage with diesel motors. This can be controlled by using, Corrosion Inhibitor, Liquid Cooling System. NSN 6850-01-085-4717. Mfg by Waltron LTD out of NJ or a similar product added to older anti-freeze. The container states,
Prevents engine cooling systems from corrosion, deposits and pitting,
Prevents silicate deposits,
Prevents cylinder liner pitting,
Eliminates high nitrite levels,
Special "bubble breaker" eliminates foaming and reduces cavitation potential.
In this case the name of the product is AQ-701. I do not carry this product.
Other Mfg's include NALCO Company, Penray Company and NALFLEET Inc.
It does not list a mil-spec but does meet,
General Motors Elecro-motive div spec M.I. 1748 rev c for diesel jacket cooling systems.
JDToumanian
Active member
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Update on radiator hoses:
Back in March I bought the "correct" lower radiator hose from Antelope Valley. I believe it is "New Star" brand. I put it on at that time, but the truck has not yet been driven since that time because I am not done re-assembling it after repainting... In fact I never even filled the radiator with coolant. Well, the hose is already rotting apart!
I suggest avoiding this brand, it is crap (for hoses anyway)... "China Rubber".
I'll be going to Napa after all!
Jon
Back in March I bought the "correct" lower radiator hose from Antelope Valley. I believe it is "New Star" brand. I put it on at that time, but the truck has not yet been driven since that time because I am not done re-assembling it after repainting... In fact I never even filled the radiator with coolant. Well, the hose is already rotting apart!
I suggest avoiding this brand, it is crap (for hoses anyway)... "China Rubber".
I'll be going to Napa after all!Jon
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Jon, you should let Steve and Norm know about that. I'm sure they'll work something out with you.
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Opie,
The shop we use at work did mine. Serck Radiator is their name. They are nation wide, specializing in HD and construction stuff. They cleaned mine in an ultrasonic tank then pressured it. What a difference. Ultrasonic cleaning will also work on the GI cans. I paid 60.00 I think. It was a while ago and we do regular business with them. Your mileage may vary.
The shop we use at work did mine. Serck Radiator is their name. They are nation wide, specializing in HD and construction stuff. They cleaned mine in an ultrasonic tank then pressured it. What a difference. Ultrasonic cleaning will also work on the GI cans. I paid 60.00 I think. It was a while ago and we do regular business with them. Your mileage may vary.
sermis
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cranetruck said:Gimpy, do I have a picture?
Sure, here you go. Also Check MVM issue #109, June 2005 for an article on the cooling system maintenance. Finally do a "search" on this forum.
When adding the coolent filter does it matter if you use
the upper or lower hose conection?
The lower plug on the water pump is frozen and will not budge.
I was able to get the upper plug out.
jdmcgowen
Member
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- Klamath Falls, Oregon
I'm glad I found this thread, I just replaced all my coolant hoses, and haven't refilled it yet. When I drained it I only got about 4 gallons out of the radiator. Is there another 4 gallons in the block? If so is there a block drain? Sure would be nice.
John
John
gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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John, pull the thermostat housing and blow pressurized air in it. You'll get more.
jdmcgowen
Member
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- Klamath Falls, Oregon
Well I read "TM 9-2320-209-20-3-1" and it had tons of info on the cooling system. I didn't seem to find much in the -10, but maybe I was looking in the wrong place. And anyone that may be wondering, there is a engine block drain cock. It's on the passenger side on rear of the turbo. I will be trying to blow some air through it though.
Thanks for the help.
John
Thanks for the help.
John