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Correct timing
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gimpyrobb
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Your gonna need to add more info. Why do you need to know? is it a turbo-ed motor? There should be marks on the harmonic balancer for LD, LDT, or LDS. You will use one of those marks and see where the indicator on your IP is at.
gimpyrobb
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OK, not sure how I missed the "1970 non-turbo" bit! Line up the "LD" mark on the balancer and see if the tooth is lined up on the "advance unit" of the IP. Thats the 4 bolts under/in front of the hydraulic head.
black smoke
the truck pours out black smoke, way more then normal, I was wondering if the timing might be off a little, I bypassed the fuel compensator, now it really smokes, and the fuel mileage dropped. air filter is new. maybe the injectors need to be cleaned. I don't know
the truck pours out black smoke, way more then normal, I was wondering if the timing might be off a little, I bypassed the fuel compensator, now it really smokes, and the fuel mileage dropped. air filter is new. maybe the injectors need to be cleaned. I don't know
davey8943
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gimpyrobb
dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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Bypassing the FDC will put the most fuel to the motor. Have you tried backing of the fuel delivery nut? Most non turbo trucks are smokers. Thats why the gov added turbos, they called it the "clean air kit".
Thats my "scuba steve" imatation!
Thats my "scuba steve" imatation!
gimpyrobb
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rlwm211
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The non-turbo trucks were known to smoke like the devil as Gimpy mentioned. I really doubt timing is an issue to be honest.
When I bypassed my FDC I ended up turning the fuel down considerably and probably more than would normally be needed. This was likely due to my truck being overfueled to begin with. Without a pyrometer it is difficult to know precisely how much to turn the fuel down, but turning it down in this case will be helpful.
I would turn it down a full turn to start. See how much it is smoking and if it is still fogging the neighborhood turn it down more and if it becomes a dog then turn it up some.
RL
When I bypassed my FDC I ended up turning the fuel down considerably and probably more than would normally be needed. This was likely due to my truck being overfueled to begin with. Without a pyrometer it is difficult to know precisely how much to turn the fuel down, but turning it down in this case will be helpful.
I would turn it down a full turn to start. See how much it is smoking and if it is still fogging the neighborhood turn it down more and if it becomes a dog then turn it up some.
RL
rlwm211
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I would search the site for turning the fuel up and you will get several threads and some with pictures and diagrams.
You have two nuts locked against each other on a threaded shaft that connects inside to the pressure regulator for the IP.
Unlock the two nuts WITHOUT TURNING THE THREADED SHAFT. (THIS IS IMPORTANT/
Once the nuts are unlocked to lower the fuel delivery rate, you first back the outer nut off and then turn the inner out counting the flats to keep track of your progress. When you have turned it to where you want it to be, you hold the inner and tighten the outer against it.
You will need a "TAPPET" wrench to hold the inner as it is a thin nut. The size is 1/2 inch, and you may have to grind it even thinner to fit. (I did on mine.)
I defintely would read some of the threads about this before doing it and if you are not sure, download and read the manuals.
You can download the deuce TMs including the non turbo engined variants at
www.jatonkam35s.com
report back and if you have any questions ask them before you get into this.
RL
You have two nuts locked against each other on a threaded shaft that connects inside to the pressure regulator for the IP.
Unlock the two nuts WITHOUT TURNING THE THREADED SHAFT. (THIS IS IMPORTANT/
Once the nuts are unlocked to lower the fuel delivery rate, you first back the outer nut off and then turn the inner out counting the flats to keep track of your progress. When you have turned it to where you want it to be, you hold the inner and tighten the outer against it.
You will need a "TAPPET" wrench to hold the inner as it is a thin nut. The size is 1/2 inch, and you may have to grind it even thinner to fit. (I did on mine.)
I defintely would read some of the threads about this before doing it and if you are not sure, download and read the manuals.
You can download the deuce TMs including the non turbo engined variants at
www.jatonkam35s.com
report back and if you have any questions ask them before you get into this.
RL
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SasquatchSanta
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IMHO you should also turn down the droop screw fuel setting. Others may disagree.
The droop screw controls fuel delivery at the lower RPM range.
When you only turn down the main fuel setting (as described above) it only effects the higher RPM ranges (over 1,600 RPM is memory serves me right).
You need a pyro. Good luck.
The droop screw controls fuel delivery at the lower RPM range.
When you only turn down the main fuel setting (as described above) it only effects the higher RPM ranges (over 1,600 RPM is memory serves me right).
You need a pyro. Good luck.
gimpyrobb
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Nope, the main fuel screw changes both settings, the low and the high.
rlwm211
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Agreed Gimpy, to a point....
My approach is to establish the main fuel setting based on performance at max RPM and Pyrometer readings and then trim the droop screw to a point where the truck will accelerate in the midrange but smokes the least. The truck will falter if you set the droop too low.
This type of adjustment is a bit out of the need of the OP and the main fuel adjustment will be a good place to start.
Just my two cents.
RL
My approach is to establish the main fuel setting based on performance at max RPM and Pyrometer readings and then trim the droop screw to a point where the truck will accelerate in the midrange but smokes the least. The truck will falter if you set the droop too low.
This type of adjustment is a bit out of the need of the OP and the main fuel adjustment will be a good place to start.
Just my two cents.
RL
gimpyrobb
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Yup, start in the general area of turning the fuel down an tailor it from there.
SasquatchSanta
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I made the comment about turning down the droop screw because after turning down the main fuel setting on my LDS twice it didn't stop excessively smoking until I turned down the droop screw.
I wish I could remember the specifics or the TM but there is a procedure that I went through a couple of years ago for recalibrating the droop screw and main setting. If memory serves me right it involved putting the transfer case and transmission in low gear and checking the manifold pressure at full throttle and full brake pedal at 1600 rpm and then 2400 (I think) rpm. Based of the pressure readings the droop screw was turned up or down at the low rpm and the main setting was adjusted for the 2400? rpm. The trick was to keep applying throttle and brake to hold the 1600 or 2400 rpm and record the pressure.
I may have some of the specifics wrong so if you try this take the time to reference the proper TM.
I'm no expert authority on this but I am of the opinion that the droop screw plays a big role in doseing the engine with fuel at low rpms therefore when the compensator is bypassed the main "and" droop needs to be re-set. IMHO not re-setting the droop over doses the engine at low rpms thus causing smoke and even possible wet stackingwhen the compensator is bypassed. Just my 2-cents worth.
I have a past thread on this but given that the 1960's were really good to me and I killed a lot of brain cells I don't remember the specifics.
I wish I could remember the specifics or the TM but there is a procedure that I went through a couple of years ago for recalibrating the droop screw and main setting. If memory serves me right it involved putting the transfer case and transmission in low gear and checking the manifold pressure at full throttle and full brake pedal at 1600 rpm and then 2400 (I think) rpm. Based of the pressure readings the droop screw was turned up or down at the low rpm and the main setting was adjusted for the 2400? rpm. The trick was to keep applying throttle and brake to hold the 1600 or 2400 rpm and record the pressure.
I may have some of the specifics wrong so if you try this take the time to reference the proper TM.
I'm no expert authority on this but I am of the opinion that the droop screw plays a big role in doseing the engine with fuel at low rpms therefore when the compensator is bypassed the main "and" droop needs to be re-set. IMHO not re-setting the droop over doses the engine at low rpms thus causing smoke and even possible wet stackingwhen the compensator is bypassed. Just my 2-cents worth.
I have a past thread on this but given that the 1960's were really good to me and I killed a lot of brain cells I don't remember the specifics.