• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Correct wheel studs for M1028?

jonstine

New member
29
0
0
Location
Austin, TX
I am replacing the rotors on my 1986 M1028. I have disassembled/pulled everything, and I'm now trying to put the new wheel bolts/studs back in to the hub and rotor. I bought new Dorman 610-283 bolts (which are spec'd on multiple sites as correct), and I can pound them almost the entire way in. The last 1/4 inch isn't going, even with a 4lb hammer and a fair amount of putting my back into it.

Looking at the new vs old bolts, I notice a slight difference, which may account for them not fully seating. See pic.

Are these the correct wheel bolts, and I just need to have them pressed in, or is there a part number for the old style bolt that someone's aware of? I did a search for "wheel stud bolt" on here, and while there are plenty of discussions, I couldn't find one referring to this issue or the correct part. Thanks in advance for the assist.
IMG_1534_Ink_LI.jpg
 

jonstine

New member
29
0
0
Location
Austin, TX
I should add, I believe I found the replacement just now...

The Dorman 610-563 appears to be a direct replica of the old bolt. At $10-15/ea (HOLY SH!T) I probably will not be replacing the bolts. How safe is it to reuse the original old bolts? All look good, no cracks or issues that are visible, but I am curious if there are any issues with doing so.
 

Obijuank5

New member
48
0
0
Location
Central tx
I have never replaced a stud unless I screwed it up. I have had way older and more severe duty vehicles with more frequent tire changes and still the studs are fine. I will replace lug nuts as a wear item though.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,013
1,814
113
Location
GA Mountains
I as well, have done many dozen rotor replacements and used existing studs. No issues at all. If at all possible, use a press to seat them. If you must draw them in with a lugnut or hammer them in with a drift, make sure you retighten the lugs many times in the first few miles and check them closely for weeks. The press is the very best route.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,293
1,227
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I bought new Dorman 610-283 bolts (which are spec'd on multiple sites as correct), and I can pound them almost the entire way in. The last 1/4 inch isn't going, even with a 4lb hammer and a fair amount of putting my back into it.

Looking at the new vs old bolts, I notice a slight difference, which may account for them not fully seating. See pic.


View attachment 666867
How many thousands larger is the OD above the serrations? If you already have the 610-283 studs, why not spend a few minutes on the lathe machining them down to correct size?
 
Top