Could Speedometer r&r Gen 1&2 Light Failure be Related?

[Sergeant1983]

I took out my speedometer and replaced it because the needle broke. After doing so the Gen 1&2 lights do not light up when key is turned on. I checked voltage at alternators 1&2, both putting out 14.5VDC. Check batteries and front battery is getting 14.5VDC but rear battery is only showing 12.3VDC. Gen Bulbs appear good. Connection in back of cluster feels like it's solid. Heater blower works normal and oil light is on before starting, then goes out normally. So am I barking up the wrong tree thinking the two things are related? Is there something I could have disturbed standing on my head, }#%^*+ the day I was born, as I spent over and hour getting the speedo cable back on; or am I barking up the wrong tree? Has anyone had the same problem before?

 

[Sergeant1983]

I found this diagram online

 

[dependable]

It is possible you loosened the harness hook up to insturment panel (in upper right of your diagram). Those contacts could also use a cleaning, be careful, the copper contacts are pretty thin on the plastic.

Test the light bulbs, they are the same socket type as front side marker, so easy to test there.

I find it a lot easier to remove dash pad and dash doing this type of work than standing on my head cursing.

 

[Warthog]

Questions:

when you removed the speedo cable how did you do it? Reach up from behind and release the snap?

Did is you remove the instrument cluster?

It it may be a good idea to remove the cluster and clean it. Over the years did grime and corrosion will play havoc with the connection.

There some good threads on testing, cleaning and fixing the cluster in the CUCV Helpful Threads sticky

 

[Warthog]

Chances are there is a dirty connection at the wiring harness plug. Removing the cable you most like bumped it and disturbed the connection.

 

[Sergeant1983]

Well, I've gotten real good at disconnecting the speedo cable and removing that printed circuit board now. LOL Good news it's clean and works when not fully installed, but one gen bulb is still not working when fully installed. Of course another set of bad weather has impeded my progress again. I know someone that has a spare printed circuit board to swap out with, but thinking maybe it's just that one bulb socket acting up now when everything is back together. I'm going to fiddle with the gen 2 bulb socket first. And back check with it installed, with a multimeter. Before doing a full swap out. Another positive note, is the cluster is super clean now too. And a ton of dirt has been removed from under the dash as well.

 

[Sergeant1983]

PS Had I not messed with the printed circuit board; I would not be going through all this. But in all honesty, that baby needed to be cleaned up under there real good anyway. PMs from members, reading other threads, and this thread have really helped. Will update next weather break on progress. Tnx

 

[AECS]

Im just north of you in Atoka, I have had my M1009 dash apart to many time to count. If I can lent a hand let me know.

 

[FMJ]

There is a 10 amp fuse in the fuse box, bottom left, labeled 28V, make sure it's not blown, if it is, your Gen 2 light will never light.

 

[Sergeant1983]

Went and checked the 10 amp fuse. It's good and reads 27.1 VDC going through, just like under the hood (checking both batteries together). Still too cold to work outside very long today.

 

[Sergeant1983]

Okay, aside from a lot of dirty contacts, that messed up when the printed CB was disturbed; there are two differing styles of plugs holding the gen 1&2 bulbs in. One is black and one is grey. The grey one takes gorilla strength and the black one goes in and out with a positive lock. I did not really notice it when it was apart and easier to get to. But once in place, the grey one is a bugger to get in and out. Lesson learned. A 30 year old vehicle that spent a lot of time in the dirt, needs to be detailed. So everytime you take something apart, clean up all the parts and connections real good. Even if a connection looks good, clean that bad boy.

 

[FMJ]

So it's fixed?

 

[cucvrus]

I always found the grey one in the 4WD light position. Am I correct about that? Someone else that has worked on them for years?

 

[Sergeant1983]

Its fixed. I thought it was odd and they should both be the same color. I will order a spare from LMC and post what comes in.

 

[cucvrus]

I have hundreds of them sockets. Send me a address (PM) and I will send you some.

 

[cucvrus]

I just moved an M1009 that I have had in my barn for the past 15 years + and I noticed that even without any cluster present in the vehicle the voltage meter still reads and charges as designed. I mentioned that before to someone and they said it can't. I now have the pictures.This M1009 has been on my to do list for a long time. It is not eating anything and will probably never get completed by me. It has 12,674 miles on it. Everything including the tires were OEM when I bought it. Check out the inner fenders.

 

[Sergeant1983]

Funny you mentioned that. When I blew a #2 belt, the meter dropped just slightly. Was still in green. With red #2 light on. Few months later I had #1 belt go with same result. Meter dropped slightly and #1 light came on. When both belts broke, both lights came on and meter went to no out put. I think the meter measures a combined load. Off topic, my belt failures turned out to be from my extra crank pully from installing AC rubbing the other pully. Added a few spacer washers between added pully and other pulley; and that fixed that.