Countersunk bolt removal

[rcamacho]

Hmm, heat or no heat? Don’t want to melt the rivnut / fasteners. Else drill/extract? Of course also the weld nut method as well…

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[Gcelevator]

PB blaster or any other penetrant fluid for a couple of days, then hit it once hard and try to unscrew. Is the 1st thing i would do.

 

[rcamacho]

PB blaster or any other penetrant fluid for a couple of days, then hit it once hard and try to unscrew. Is the 1st thing i would do.

PB already in process thanks


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[SmartDrug]

If those are like the ones on my HMMWV, hitting the nut on the underside got them freed up pretty easily.

 

[Mullaney]

Hmm, heat or no heat? Don’t want to melt the rivnut / fasteners. Else drill/extract? Of course also the weld nut method as well…

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.
What about an Impact Driver?
As you are already doing - penetrating oil, then "thump" this tool with about a three pound hammer. Gotta find the hex tool that will fit it, but there are kits for that or a 3/8 socket with an allen on the end of it. These things work pretty well...

That thump with a hammer attempts to turn the fastener a little less than a quarter turn. Forward or Reverse (depending on how you set the tool)

 

[papakb]

Try finding a hex impact bit for one of these drivers! Good luck. PB Blaster is great stuff but I prefer Kroil. It's never let me down.

 

[HoveringHMMWV]

I had the exact same issue. Soaked with PB Blaster for two days in a row then left for four days. Upon my return, I used a hex head socket and each broke free with just a wee bit of effort. FYI… Replacements for the rusty components were found at BoltDepot.com as they have a printable measuring guide.

 

[springer1981]

Small chisel and a hammer. If it is a rivnut behind it, you might be replacing it.

 

[Maxjeep1]

I was trying to remove my transmission cooler today so I could clean in between radiator. 3 of the Allen heads came out great but the 4th stripped out. I had to drill it out and remove the power steering cooler and I had to weld a nut on it and it was really tight and I couldn’t wear hood so it took me 2 tries to weld it. I got it out but it took me hours.

 

[williamh]

You may want to try “rocking” the bolt. Loosen - tighten wit lots of penetrant. Can you spray from the bottom up ? Soak them bolts

 

[Maxjeep1]

I would drill it out if it will not come out. Remove plate and weld a nut on. Spray with some pb before you weld nut on. I don’t know if it’s necessary but I unhooked the batteries when I welded

 

[SmartDrug]

You’re approaching removal wrong- there is a nut on the underside. You need to free that if you want to remove it. You might get the head loose, but it’s just going to spin until the nut is removed from beneath the tub. The penetrating oil isn’t going to do anything from on top as it’s not likely even reaching the nut below.

 

[rcamacho]

You’re approaching removal wrong- there is a nut on the underside. You need to free that if you want to remove it. You might get the head loose, but it’s just going to spin until the nut is removed from beneath the tub. The penetrating oil isn’t going to do anything from on top as it’s not likely even reaching the nut below.

Ah, I remember that is the case with the rear D rings. I’ll look underneath for the rest.


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[patracy]

You’re approaching removal wrong- there is a nut on the underside. You need to free that if you want to remove it. You might get the head loose, but it’s just going to spin until the nut is removed from beneath the tub. The penetrating oil isn’t going to do anything from on top as it’s not likely even reaching the nut below.

I was about to mention that.

Also a great trick I use for stubborn Allen key fasteners is this. If I so much as feel like a fastener is going to be a problem, I go to the shelf and grab the tube of valve grinding compound. Before I try to turn it, I'll put a small dab of it in the head then insert the key. It gives just a little extra bite and in my experience, I've yet to round any more fasteners or tools with this.

But penetrating oils into the threads before I touch a fastener that is rusty always. Then I also will apply heat at times too. And often I'll douse it with more oil. (Tends to shock the bolt and allows more capillary action)

I'm probably rambling at this point. But check the underside first.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

First determine if the other side is a nut or if it’s a riv nut of sorts, older trucks used a rivnut, but later they used nuts, you have a 50/50 chance of spinning the riv nut, what I perceive as the reason they stopped using rivnuts.
the bed ties are nuts on your model.