Couple of questions

Rutjes

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Hey guys,

I was under my truck to take the starter out after breaking a bolt. I got new bolts and a bracket, but it seems that the threaded stud on the engine block for attaching the bracket is broken. Can this stud be replaced?

On the flexplate inspection cover are 2 threaded holes, what are these for?

inspcover.jpg

I got some more questions about sensors. I want to add at least a temperature gauge and I've read about a blocked of hole on the passenger/back side of the engine for a sensor. I've also seen a pic of someone adding a sensor here:

hole.jpg

Are there any more holes to be used? What are the pros and cons of using these holes? And what thread will fit in them? I see 1/2 inch 14 thread and 3/8 inch 18 thread sensors on Rock Auto.

They also list senders, sensors and switches. From what I can tell senders are for gauges and sensors/switches are for the idiot light, is this correct?

I'm thinking of making a list of possible and existing sensor locations, with their thread size/count and what they can be used for (temp, oil or whatever) and some product IDs. Might be useful for other people and could even be added to the CUCV wiki.
 
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cucvrus

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The lines you have showing are not supposed to be rubber hose. they are supposed to be 3/8" steel lines for the transmission cooler lines. The holes are 7/16 X 14 TPI holes that are used for transmission braces which are NOT used on the CUCV. From new they used a steel clamp to hold the transmission cooler lines on the bottom of the cover. Works well. I would fear debris, mud and stone would catch the rubber lines and all heaven would break loose. IMHO the head is the best place to measure engine temperature. Do as you wish. I have placed gauges on the passenger side rear head and in the stock left front head area. hat is up to you. You can T these areas off and have both the idiot ight and the gauge. All optional. The most accurate temperature measurement of transmission fluid is the temp in the pan. Do as you wish. I have gauges in a few trucks and more without. I have a tach and full gauges in Crown of Thorns M1009. I had transfer case temp and both differentials temps 5+ years ago. but have since eliminated the diffs and transfer case gauges. Wring was caught twice and torn. Not very useful anyway. Just wanted to do it. Good Luck. The rubber hose is a NO NO in my world.
 

Mg84648

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"I was under my truck to take the starter out after breaking a bolt. I got new bolts and a bracket, but it seems that the threaded stud on the engine block for attaching the bracket is broken. Can this stud be replaced?"

That isn't supposed to be a stud. Sounds like its a broken bolt in what's supposed to be a threaded hole for the bracket mount bolt.
Also, I'm with CUCVRUS, I'd be leery of letting those transmission cooler lines hang out like that if you take it anywhere other than the hardball.
 

cucvrus

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It also appears that you are missing all 6 of the M10 X 1.5 bolts that hold the cover in place. But you do have 1/4 x 20 bolts holding the cover in place. I do NOT see them on a CUCV at all. Interesting. I do see the starter is removed and the bolt hole in the block that holds the starter support bracket to the block is an M8 x 1.25 metric hole. It is Metric. good Luck. post more and get them transmission lines bent out in 3/8" tubing. Or NOT. Good Luck.
 

Rutjes

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Great replies guys, I am a bit wiser now.

Glad you guys pointed out the rubber hoses. I feel kinda stupid now for not noticing/thinking anything about them hanging loose like that. Seems easy enough to fix.

Here's a picture of the broken stud and a picture I found displaying how it should be:

IMG_20170721_071826.jpg971009TP02-004.JPG

It still sticks out a tiny bit, I hope I can grab it with some pliers and twist it out and then put a stud or bolt in there.

I think I might have the wrong cover? The cover is bolted down with 4 bolts (you can see 2 in the picture). The shape of the cover matches the bellhousing, but other then the 4 used holes, the holes dont match up?

IMG_20170721_071554.jpg

Kinda looks like there was thread in the holes too?

I think I'll put a temp sensor in the passengerr/back of the head and one in the transmission too. Can you tell what sensors to order? Still confused about the naming on Rock Auto, can't seem to find good descriptions either. Also do I need a different gauge for the transmission?

Has, any body used non tax farm diesel. instead of using taxed diesel from the pump station? does the red die in the farm diesel. cause anylong lasting problems for the 6.2
First let me state that I have never used it, but I know people who've ran it in more modern (pickier) engines (mid 90's Toyota Hilux, VW Golf, BMW and Mercedes) for years without problems so I highly doubt it will cause problems on a 6.2.
 
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cucvrus

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Has, any body used non tax farm diesel. instead of using taxed diesel from the pump station? does the red die in the farm diesel. cause anylong lasting problems for the 6.2
Big problem if you get caught using it on the road. I had a farmer friend get a $10K fine with a truck he was using to haul produce. The tax man caught him and 3 others at the produce auction.

Rutjes what I think you have in the support bolt is the bolt was to long or a standard thread bolt in a metric hole. I hope neither but fear the worst. I think you will have your hands full getting that stud out. I think it is possible that you have a different transmission in that truck then is supposed to be in it. If it were me and it worked fine. I would drill the flange and nut and bolt the cover in place. After I made up a new set of steel transmission lines. Report back on the support stud. Do you have access to a welder? Weld a nut on the stud that is protruding and give it ell. Good Luck. The transmission gauge should read from the pan. They make pans with a location for a sending unit. Maybe Summit Racing equipment would be a good place to luck. Again Good Luck. I will help if I can. Take Care.
 

Drock

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Weld a nut on the stud, DO NOT put the temp sensor in the water pump the drivers side head is best, rubber trans lines aren't the end of the world just route them up over the trans & up out of the way.
 

cucvrus

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Your driving world will end quickly if you catch the hoses on something and don't know it. I think he already realized that. Get the steel tubing out and do the job right. Or think about it every time you go in the brush or mud. Anywhere you route them they are in harms way.
 

dom1986ck30

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Aloha, I just purchased and installed the (2) Transmission Cooler Lines on my m1008. LMC TRUCK. They worked out pretty good. A little tricky fishing them in there. But after an hour or so... got it! Highly recommended like the other posts. Also, like my fuel tank, I am putting a cover over it. Welded with bolts for access. I use my truck in the mountains... Cheers!
 

Rutjes

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Found the lines at LMC, I'll keep them in mind.

My dad got me some tools to remove the starter bolt. Hope it'll stay dry for a bit tomorrow.

IMG-20170721-WA0006.jpg

For the bracket bolt/stud I think I'll have to get the starter on without the bracket, drive it to my work and get a nut welded on to get it out.

Just placed a bid on a civy instrument cluster.

inst.jpg

Kind of an impluse bid. I want to keep it stock, but the speedo and fuel gauges look better then mine. I like the clock, might relocate it together with temp gauge somewhere else if I get the winning bid.
 
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NovacaineFix

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Has, any body used non tax farm diesel. instead of using taxed diesel from the pump station? does the red die in the farm diesel. cause anylong lasting problems for the 6.2
When I 1st got my 1009, it had a full tank of agri-diesel or what some call "red Diesel" . It is the same fuel, just doesn't have the road tax applied to it when buying it at the pump, for that reason, a big "no-no" for using it on the road.

It won't do anything to the truck, just don't get caught on the road when using it.

Also that stud for your starter is only used for Version 2 and 3 starters as it does not fit correctly for the 1st version starter. Most of the CUCV starters, I believe are version 1, and have a different bracket and a bolt. But as long as it does what it is supposed to do, support the starter, then it really doesn't matter if it's a stud or a bolt.

When looking at your pic of the stud, has it been repaired with JB weld or something similar?

20170723_002339.jpg
 
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cucvrus

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I think the bolt he is referring to it the one broken off in the block. I never seen a stud in any of these motors at that location. Also Rutjes if it were mine I would remove the motor mounts and replace them while you are in there. But I would probably end up pulling that engine and change all the seals and gaskets to give it a fresh start. i don't know if that is an option for you. But if you check out my Easter Find thread the Energy Suspension mounts are show with the part number. The ones you have in the picture have sunken very deep in the brackets. Good Luck in what ever you choose to do. Have a great day.
 

The FLU farm

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My dad got me some tools to remove the starter bolt. View attachment 691073
I would try using a small, sharp center punch, and possibly tap the broken bolt out that way, before resorting to drilling.
At the very least, I'd use a guide on the drill bit to keep it in the bolt, instead of ruining the threads. It can be tricky to keep the drill bit in the fastener even with a guide.
 

cucvrus

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I have used an M10 bolt and cut it off with as much of the shoulder as required and used that with the hex head if you like in the hole as a guide. Sink the bit into the chuck that the drill has no choice but to stay centered. And let the SHARP drill bit do the drilling. Pushing the drill like a mad man just breaks bits. And if the bit is not sharp with a factory sharp edge. You are wasting your time. if you sharpen them with a drill Dr. you are better then most people I know. We have all our bits sharpened by a machine shop and they all have the double start point on them. Reduces drill bit walk and makes them drill and start easier. Good Luck. Any progress reports???
 
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The FLU farm

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What a coincidence. Last weekend I had to enlarge some holes on a dozer blade. It was an uphill battle - until I remembered the Drill Doctor.
Hadn't used it for maybe 10 years, and now the subject came up twice within a week.
 

Rutjes

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Not much of a progress report. Work and bad weather held me back. I did find something I can use as a drill guide, so less chance of messing up the threads...

Sent from my A0001 using Tapatalk
 

cucvrus

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Good to hear. And if you mess up the treads a little you can tap them out and you will be fine. As long as the bolt gets tight and it will you are good. I have drilled into treads a bit and tapped them and never had any side effects. in the real world it happens all the time. What ever it takes to get the job done correctly. Good Luck. I am dealing with weather also. The excessive rain is making the grass and weeds grow as fast as I can cut it. Better then drought anytime. Keep us updated. I think it will go fine.
 
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