Cracked transer case in new m1010

[john ford]

Just bought a m1010 that came from Grenada. Seems to be in fairly good condition, with the exception of a crack, about 2 inches long and 1 or 2 mm wide, on the front main section...Anyone have any experience with any of that liquid weld stuff? Do they sell just that pan? Am I in need of a whole new transfer case? or is a weld possible?


also, money is an issue.

 

[Speedy]

j-b weld may work.
doesnt look like a crack (from the looks of the wavey pattern)

 

[FMJ]

T-case chain cut a hole in the case?, best bet is to inspect the t-case inards. Do you have any pics showing more of the case to get an idea exactly were this is located?

NP208's aren't that pricey though

 

[NDT]

Welcome to the site. Used transfers are available inexpensively. The transfer comes off really easy, just remove the driveshafts and the shift link, the speedo cable, and 6 nuts, and the transfer pulls off to the rear. I would have it welded up if you can determine the crack is from a forklift hit. If something came undone inside, it is not worth fixing.

 

[mahdey]

you can get an np208 for 50-100 bucks. just replace the whole thing.

 

[acmunro]

If it is not an internal failure I would use JB Weld. Just make sure the area is clean and oil free. I once had a front drive shaft come unhooked except for one bolt flip around and break the transfer case. Oil just poured out of it. Didn't have much money at the time and this truck had a 700r4 transmission, so I didn't have the correct NP 208 to mate to it. I made a blow out patch with some thin aluminum and screwed it to the transfer case and used JB weld to seal it. Never had a problem with it leaking. - Good stuff if used properly.

 

[john ford]

Thank you for all of the replies. It was exciting finding this forum, I had a good time reading back threads before posting myself. I originally thought I was going to have to replace the seal, as that's what the guy I bought it from told me is what he expected would be the problem. When I got it back here, I took off the skid plate, and that strange gauge, or crack? was there, not sure that it came from the inside or out, though from relative position to the skid plate, I would have to imagine internal, thought the almost toothish marks it makes on the outside puzzle me,...perhaps expansion fracture from being whacked from inside?

Either way, he says he has a 208 attached to a suburban transmission, and that I could take that whole section of the train if I wanted it. Seems like the best bet.

 

[john ford]

pardon my inexperience, but would anyone be willing to give me a quick rundown on how the old one is coming off,...I took off the skid plate and cross member and damn near crapped myself when the case dropped three inches and almost crushed my skull,.....insert bashful smiley, ha,..but really.

Questions, how am I disconnecting the drive shaft from the case? Smacking it with a hammer towards the rear diff? Should the shaft be hinge down? so that it can bend itself out?

also, I am doing this on my back in the driveway,..so any advice or tips that help me from crushing my skull is greatly appreciated.

Also, perhaps some other things I could check while I have that area opened up.

 

[acmunro]

1. Block the wheels good. Set parking brake.
2. Drain remaining oil from transfer case.
3. Remove 4 bolts and u-joint straps at the rear differential.
4. Carefully pop the u-joint from the yoke at the rear differential. Don't let the caps come off. Put tape around them to keep them on.
5. Pull the drive shaft out of the Transfer Case- be ready to catch some oil.
6. Disconnect wire connector on the top of the transfer case.
7. Disconnect Speedometer cable.
8. Remove 4 bolts from front driveshaft at the transfer case. Flange
9. Remove the bolts that secure the transfer case to the transfer case adapter.(The Cast iron part is the adapter. Carefully slide the tranfer case back and down. Might want to use a jack.

You don't really need to remove the crossmember just the skidplate. Watch your head.

 

[john ford]

Thank you, I was able to get it off, now I am just waiting until Tues for the seal. Hopefully the guy at NAPA got it right, he seemed fairly cross eyed as I explained what I had.

I know a lot of the Chevy CUCV's were k30's, but the door panel on my M1010 says it is a C model. was that the case for these? i know my title said it was a D model,...which the lady at the DMV said must have been a typo, then proceeded to file it under as a C30,...

Also, if anyone could fill me in on the proper procedure to bleed and refill the brake lines I would be grateful.

I have been reading here and it seems there are a lot of glow plug issues. Are Anyone have the NAPA parts number for these? Or if anyone has a cross reference sheet for this vehicle it would be nice,..the M1010 wasn't on the list I saw on this site.

Anyother suggestions on things I should or could ideally clean, adjust, or replace, before I even fire it up would be helpful.

 

[Recovry4x4]

C= 2wd
K=4wd
G=van
P= fwd control
D=military

Your's is 100% D

 

[scooter01922]

Welcome to the site fellow ma s s hole