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Crank case venting / oil burning issue

portajon

New member
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0
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Location
Imnaha, OR
Hello and thanks for allowing me to register on your forum. Thanks in advance for any and all advice / help.

I am managing a remote ranch in eastern Oregon and I have been bringing an old M274A mule back to life. The engine runs pretty well, last work done was a new carb and new inline fuel filter, did an oil change. Already read here where I should have used an SAE 30 instead of multi grade 10w - 30. Will change that soon. Installed a new pull starter cable last week. This old engine runs exceptionally well except for one issue.

The issue appears to be the crankcase vents allowing far too much oil into the breather / carb. This has happened a couple times where the engine begins to bellow smoke and loses power. I can close the valve near the carb and stop the issue, but this causes pressure to force out oil around the governor. That leak needs to be repaired, but I first need to understand this crank case venting and why it sometimes pushes so much oil into the fuel system.

Thanks if you can help educate me a little more on this engine.
 

mulman7

Member
40
-1
6
Location
Toccoa, GA
portion

Welcome to the amazing world of Mules. You will find help here and on G503 under 2 Board Indexes: MULE M274 and MULE M274 Technical.

I posted about this problem at

http://g503.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=148&t=265091

It sounds as if there is way too much oil coming from the Outlet Vent Valve.

Remedy:

1-Follow the instructions given in my Post and you will need good mechanical skills as getting the Cam re-installed requires SKILL when not doing a engine and bell housing removal.

2-Vent the Outlet Valve to atmosphere and plug the connection to the Intake. Then later make the repairs.

#2 is much simpler and will work well if you run the vent below the engine so not to discharge oil onto the engine.

I only use Rotella T1 30wt oil we all have our preferences.

Contact me if you need further help or parts.
 

portajon

New member
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0
0
Location
Imnaha, OR
Thanks for the information. Going to take your advice and disconnect the crank case vent at the carb. I think I will attach a line to it and vent it into a soup can with a sponge in it or something.

Will let you know how it works out.
 

Squirt-Truck

Master Chief
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,180
162
63
Location
Marietta, Georgia
This sound like a fuel pump starting to die. Fuel in the oil will do just this. Check the oil, if it is contaminated loo at the pump diaphragm.
 

mulman7

Member
40
-1
6
Location
Toccoa, GA
Not necessary to run the vent line into a can and sponge.

When the pistons go to TDC that creates crankcase suction and the inlet line check ball opens allowing air into the crankcase and the outlet reed plate closes allowing air into the engine from the air cleaner.

When the pistons go to BDC that creates crankcase pressure the inlet line check ball closes and the outlet reed plate opens discharging air to the carb inlet.

This supports only one direction of air flow at the inlet and outlet connections.
 

portajon

New member
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0
Location
Imnaha, OR
Thanks so much for the rebuild kit. Will remit to you tomorrow.

I have a question about the two valves in the pump.... mainly, how the heck do you get them out of the pump body and put the new ones in?
 

mulman7

Member
40
-1
6
Location
Toccoa, GA
Take a pic prior to removing to aid in proper replacement.

You should be able to use a punch or a socket from the back side and drive them out from the side that has the 3-4 stakes in the Aluminum shoulder. This will destroy the old check valves.
When pressing the new ones in I believe a 3/8 drive 9/16 socket will work. Then when seated take a center punch or a dull cold chisel and stake the shoulder. It doesn't take much to hold them in place.
 

portajon

New member
12
0
0
Location
Imnaha, OR
Take a pic prior to removing to aid in proper replacement.

You should be able to use a punch or a socket from the back side and drive them out from the side that has the 3-4 stakes in the Aluminum shoulder. This will destroy the old check valves.
When pressing the new ones in I believe a 3/8 drive 9/16 socket will work. Then when seated take a center punch or a dull cold chisel and stake the shoulder. It doesn't take much to hold them in place.
Got it. I did not see any snap ring or retainer and didn't want to get violent with them without knowing for sure.

Do the two small round gaskets go there? And the third gasket I can't figure at all.... I have no opening that looks like that.
 

mulman7

Member
40
-1
6
Location
Toccoa, GA
Yes insert the small round gasket then insert the check valve.

Gaskets
1-2ea small round gaskets for the check valves
2-Diaphragm push down and 1/4 turn to remove / replace [additional flap should align with top gasket flap
3-Top Gasket align with small pin on body next to one of the screw holes top also aligns with this pin
4-Mounting gasket for bottom housing to engine block, not needed because fuel pump can be rebuilt without removing from engine
 
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