Crank, NO START after a 100 degree day. No issues since new injectors 3 months ago.

[edpdx]

Cranked but no start this morning. I have cracked the air bleed valve and get fuel when I crank the engine. Pulled a Glow Plug- about two years old, my OHM meter says it's 2.2Ω- same as a new set of G60s on my shelf.

Would the heat cause this?

What else can I check?

 

[edpdx]

Just checked the IP solenoid (Pink Wire). With ignition ON, the solenoid clicks when connected/disconnected. Good right?

 

[ken]

Crack open a Injector, then turn the engine over with wide open throttle. See if fuel bleeds out. You may need to bleed it. Any white smoke while cranking from the exhaust? Is it turning over fast enough?

 

[Chaski]

Just checked the IP solenoid (Pink Wire). With ignition ON, the solenoid clicks when connected/disconnected. Good right?

That is good.

What kind of voltage do you have at the glow plugs when they cycle?

 

[cucvrus]

You must check ALL glow plugs. Also check if voltage is coming from the bottom stud of the glow plug relay. I find it easy to pull ALL glow plugs and get a visual look and test them on the bench with the battery charger. But I have had several that cycled the light as normal but the current was not making it out the bottom stud of the glow plug relay. 100 degrees or not it needs that glow plug system to cold start. Did you crank it a while and start it that way. I see guys do that all the time. They don't want to spend the money to fix the issue with the glow plugs. Good Luck.

 

[Hasdrubal]

turn the engine over with wide open throttle.

I'm curious as to why wide open throttle? I've bled my system a number of times and it sprays fuel from cracked injectors all over the inner fenders with the throttle closed.

 

[cucvrus]

I'm curious as to why wide open throttle? I've bled my system a number of times and it sprays fuel from cracked injectors all over the inner fenders with the throttle closed.

Not sure I would wide open throttle. That would be a rude awakening if it did fire up. But you are correct you can bleed the air out with it set at idle.

 

[edpdx]

That is good.

What kind of voltage do you have at the glow plugs when they cycle?

I have 11volts at the glow plug connector.
Replaced GP with fresh G60x8

Also, just checked my GP control card (Antenna climber v2.x) All LEDS glow as per his instructions.

Fully charged the batteries, and then tried bleeding the OEM filter. I have non-contaminated diesel flowing nicely. I pulled the short rubber fuel line from the IP at the front of the pump. It flows with air in it when I crank the engine.

Just now around my number 8 GP/Injector I noticed a fuel leak. It stopped before I could trace it. I have not been able to repeat it either. I have washed it all down with brake cleaner so I can try to isolate the leak. Weird thing- had my wife crank the engine while I watched from below. I saw a spark/ember drop off between the area of the NO6/8 GP. What could cause a spark? Also I smell burning rubber in the same are (could be insulation).

What else should I look at?

 

[cucvrus]

A bad connection at the glow plug or in the wiring harness of the glow plugs. The green glow plug wires are soldered together and crimped together inside the harness. If the connection has gone bad at one of the crimps or solder connections it will create heat. I have had glow plugs melt the plastic inside at the connection because of corrosion and a loose connection. I have the 13 G glow plugs with the 3/16" tab on them. I am sure the same will happen with the 1/4" tab. I would take the harness apart and trace the green wires on the side you seen the ember come from. Then follow up on the other side. But that smell of hot wires is a concern. And it could cause a condition to trick the circuit card into thinking an over load is occurring. Also did you check for current on the bottom stud of the glow plug relay on the firewall. Current should be present when the wait light is on. Good Luck.

 

[edpdx]

RESOLVED. The spark I saw made me investigate any wire sources that could produce it. I found the problem the moment I begin inspecting the passenger side Alternator. One of the heavy Red wires to the ALT had been hard-pressed against the capacitor- shown in picture with carbon arc/pit. I taped the wire, but I'll rewrap it with something more substantial later today.

I found a 30AMP headlight fuse blown in the fuse box. I don't know that the short would strain the headlight circuit, but the fuse was not actuall burned out so much as melted. Anyway, after taping the open short, I started everything right up and drove for an hour without any problems.

There is the matter of the fuse block though. The phenol/plastic holding the blade connector is allowing the blade of the fuse to barely be pinched in place. I'm going to disconnect the batteries and see if I can tweak the connector to grip the fuse more tightly. I don't want to lose headlights on a night trip.

Any ideas on an alternate work around?

P.S. Thanks to all for their input. It helps make me a better mechanic whenever I have to really look at systems I don't generally work on. The most I have done with the GP system is replace the controller card and the plugs. I got a bit of an education this time around.

 

[cucvrus]

Common problem. i solved ine by removing the block and adding 2 inline fuses. Done not a problem in years.

 

[shiner13]

Common problem. i solved ine by removing the block and adding 2 inline fuses. Done not a problem in years.

Could you elaborate on what/how you did this, please? Thank you!

 

[cucvrus]

Are you having issues with the 30 amp light circuit fuse on the right side midway in the fuse box? I have a truck I must repair soon. I can take pictures. It may be against my ethics to do repairs like this but they are fast and inexpensive and serve the same purpose. I am going to be working on a plow truck that gets hot lighting fuse and looses lights. Very annoying as it happens at the worst times. Always when someone else is operating it. Never when I am around and driving. I graduated to a new truck for comfort and they do just as good a job. I was always a sceptic but am now convinced. I will post when I get to that job soon. Basically splitting the fuse block and eliminating the leg in the box and adding 2 sealed in line fuses in place. Or a Circuit breaker is better.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Are you having issues with the 30 amp light circuit fuse on the right side midway in the fuse box? I have a truck I must repair soon. I can take pictures. It may be against my ethics to do repairs like this but they are fast and inexpensive and serve the same purpose.

Don't feel guilty, Rick. This is a very poor design by GM. There is just way too much stuff on that circuit. It's constantly maxed out. That's begging for trouble as things age. Your workaround is a reasonable solution.

This is why the headlight harness is a good idea. It takes a lot of load off of that circuit. Instead of the full load of the headlights going through that fuse and through the headlight switch, there's just a quarter amp to drive a relay coil.

 

[shiner13]

Yes that would be great to see some pictures. I understand better now what you mean. I haven't had that 30 amp fuse melt/burn yet, but I've been pouring over these forums for a couple of weeks now and that seems to be a common weak link. I have been trying to diagnose multiple layers of fuel & electrical issues on my 1028 that I also depend on for work. Got it running again yesterday (after finding the #17 fuse burned post GP replacement etc etc!), but trying to be proactive and reduce some of the future problems before they strand me in the backcountry.

I have already added the separate headlight wiring harness. I'm typically keeping things stock, but care more about long-term reliability.

Thanks guys, appreciate it.

 

[ken]

I'm curious as to why wide open throttle? I've bled my system a number of times and it sprays fuel from cracked injectors all over the inner fenders with the throttle closed.

When you bleed with the throttle wide open you push more fuel/air faster than at idle. So the process if faster and the starter is stressed less.