Critique possible new 151A1 for a Mutt newby?

[rossbart]

Have an opportunity to trade for what seller tells me is a 1967 Ford M151A1. Doesn't sound like he has owned that long and says he isn't sure if it was cut or not. I will go look at it next week but hoped to get you guys input first. I have and do own many MVs but have had no experience with the mutt.

he says that it starts and drives great. Says he daily drives at times during fair weather. It is titled and has fresh tag.

Anybody give me an idea what it might be worth assuming it is uncut (and if it were too)?

thanks,
Ross

 

[m38inmaine]

Looks nice, do see some civvy wire mods in the engine bay. Looks clean, would need to see the under side to determine if it was cut, that can be hid pretty well on top. I have had a lot of these and this one looks better than average.

 

[KansasBobcat]

You might try G838 for opinions. I have only seen one for sale in my area and it was "restored" and over 12,000 One sold on SS early this year for 10,900 with M416 trailer. It was uncut. Keep us informed. Good luck!

 

[FilBonica]

Too many things to take in to account here.
cut or not
rust issues to frame
engine drivetrain
general mechanicals
value could be anything from $4-12 k.
best bet is to take a Very close look at it , especally the botom side.
Fil Bonica

 

[nattieleather]

Turn signals are missing. Wire mods as noted above. No top bows installed does owner have them? Like was said before crawl under and take a close look to see if it's cut or not. Most cuts happened either in the middle of the gas tank area or just in front or behind the gas tank.

 

[dmetalmiki]

As mentioned previous, wires and lights. No big deal, easily obtainable, and It does look a nice example. Cut or not, If you can get it, do so.Pay what it is worth to you tohave opossesion of it, and enjoy it. Again..nice truck. (a little better than mine) , and nice items under the seat..shows (some) care.

 

[KansasBobcat]

Small point but the wheels are the same color as the NOS wheels I bought this year so perhaps newer than the M151. Have looked at your pictures several times and it looks better each time compared to many I have seen advertised. But Fil's questions are important as far as cost/value. (He will probably buy it if you don't!)

 

[rossbart]

Thanks to everyone for their comments and advice. I'll be going (with trailer) to look at it Friday. I'll crawl under and try to confirm whether it's been cut or not. But, unless I discover something structurally or mechanically contrary to how it has been represented, I will probably bring it home. I'm trading a gun for it (.338 Lapua) with a trade value of about $4,500. From what I'm hearing from you guys (and others) it ought to be a safe swap from a value standpoint at that. I'm hoping he has a top for it but that, the turn signals & mirrors appear to be readily available so don't guess I will sweat those details too much.

 

[KansasBobcat]

New tops are less than $100.00. So don't let that stop you. Don't know about bows etc

 

[KansasBobcat]

Don't mean to hog the thread but keep thinking of things to be aware of in buying M151. See the article in June 2015 Military Vehicles Magazine by Steve Turchet, page 20. He tells you how to detect welds and evaluate them if present. Also there other things to check that he covers. Good luck!

 

[rossbart]

[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)] Well, came home with her. It was, for the most part, about what it appeared to be. Mechanically, seems to be pretty good I think. It started and ran pretty well. Might need bit of carb adjustment. Oil and coolant looked good. It drove nicely. No drivetrain or suspension noises. Steering tight and easy. Brakes good. Clutch smooth and tranny fine. 4x4 engaged and was tight. All gearboxes seemed tight when manually turning drive and half shafts. All u-joints seemed tight. Does need some wiring/electrical work. Lights wouldn't work nor did volt meter. But, seller had owned less than a month and hadn't tried to diagnose or fix he says. Maybe something small, maybe more?[/COLOR][COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)] Bad news is that it has indeed been cut and rewelded. Has some reinforcement plates on bottom. However, it is very rust free as far as the tub goes. Floors seemed really solid. Detected no rust underneath so far either. Only rust I saw was in the windshield frame.[/COLOR]
[COLOR=rgba(0, 0, 0, 0.701961)] However, I also discovered that it is not the 1967 M151A1 that the seller represented and I told you guys. Discovered from the title that it is a 1962 year model. Would that make it a M151? Would that explain why no front turn signals? Question for you experts: how does that affect the picture? Is an early 151 more or less desirable than an A1? Does that distinction affect the valuation and, if so, in which direction? [/COLOR]

 

[lamson719]

Cut or uncut it is yours..Enjoy it as many people dream about having one but can't for various reasons.....Enjoy and congratulations......

 

[SETOYOTA]

It's not a plain m151. No oval floor drains. Looks like some body work/ bondo . Missing footman loops

 

[rossbart]

Sorry for delay in posting some post recovery pics. Had an unlucky turn of events. Was just fixing to crawl under with a creeper to get ome under chassis pics (to show how remarkably solid and rust free it is) when I tripped, fell and broke my left arm: main bone up by shoulder. Kind of out of commission for awhile now. But, can still do my research, locate parts and try to put my plan together. And, that's where I'm hoping you guys can help.
Trying to figure out what I have. Title says it's a 1962. Many things, to me, point to a straight 151, not A1. But, not sure. I'm attaching several pics. It is true I don't see any oval floor drains. But, the seats do have the screw adjusters. There don't seem to be any evidence of front market lights although there does appear to be an extra reinforced hole for something on drivers side in front of b/o drive light. Doesn't look like ever used though? No slave receptacle on the pass side cowl. Windshield does have the four slot defrost vents I've read about on early models.
Lastly, the rear lights seem unique. There are provisions for, it appears, two old style brake and b/o running lights but above the pass side light is a recess and mounting bracket for a blackout stop light I think/guess. And, no turn signal flasher provisions at all.
Hopefully the pics will shed some light. What say you experts as to what I have 151 or A1? Anybody shed light on budd or engine data plates. May be able to find more when I can get under it again. Meet with orthopedic dr tomorrow. Hopefully no surgery... Anyway, All looks and operates pretty well. Unrestored yet very solid and vurtually rust free. Original paint and markings (especially front) appears to me. I don't want to restore but rather just get it all complete and period correct.

 

[rossbart]

Sorry for delay in posting some post recovery pics. Had an unlucky turn of events. Was just fixing to crawl under with a creeper to get View attachment 591589View attachment 591590View attachment 591591View attachment 591592View attachment 591593View attachment 591594View attachment 591595View attachment 591596 ome under chassis pics (to show how remarkably solid and rust free it is) when I tripped, fell and broke my left arm: main bone up by shoulder. Kind of out of commission for awhile now. But, can still do my research, locate parts and try to put my plan together. And, that's where I'm hoping you guys can help.
Trying to figure out what I have. Title says it's a 1962. Many things, to me, point to a straight 151, not A1. But, not sure. I'm attaching several pics. It is true I don't see any oval floor drains. But, the seats do have the screw adjusters. There don't seem to be any evidence of front market lights although there does appear to be an extra reinforced hole for something on drivers side in front of b/o drive light. Doesn't look like ever used though? No slave receptacle on the pass side cowl. Windshield does have the four slot defrost vents I've read about on early models.
Lastly, the rear lights seem unique. There are provisions for, it appears, two old style brake and b/o running lights but above the pass side light is a recess and mounting bracket for a blackout stop light I think/guess. And, no turn signal flasher provisions at all.
Hopefully the pics will shed some light. What say you experts as to what I have 151 or A1? Anybody shed light on budd or engine data plates. May be able to find more when I can get under it again. Meet with orthopedic dr tomorrow. Hopefully no surgery... Anyway, All looks and operates pretty well. Unrestored yet very solid and vurtually rust free. Original paint and markings (especially front) appears to me. I don't want to restore but rather just get it all complete and period correct.

 

[rossbart]

Engine serial number is 48034. Not sure you can read in posted pic. More pics to come showing original paint and markings (including hood number)

 

[rossbart]

It's not a plain m151. No oval floor drains. Looks like some body work/ bondo . Missing footman loops

Here are a couple of pics from recovery. Setoyota, where do you think you see bondo and where are footman loops missing?

 

[SETOYOTA]

It's not a plain 151. You have the hole for the black out light over the right rear tail light . No oval floor drains and a budd body tag. Footman loop is missing on the driver side where the curtains would tie down. In front of the rear wheel wells on the outside of the body opposite of the loop by the star on the rear quarter.
It appears they are missing from both sides but can't tell. An 151 would have two on each side later models have only one on each side. It does look fairly good. I love the m151. By far the best 1/4 ton.

 

[rossbart]

Thanks for the guidance there Setoyota. An A1 is what I thought I was buying anyway, but seller told me it was a 1967, not 62 so just started wondering. About the only thing it needs is wiring help. Harnesses are not in very good shape and I would really like to replace them all. So far, having difficulty finding A1 harnesses nos and I understand A2 harnesses are (maybe possible) but certainly not ideal to convert. Anybody have or know of an outlet for the A1 harnesses (both front and rear)?

 

[SETOYOTA]

I don't think those markings are original. The font does not look correct and it has had paint work. But who knows You should post up on the g503 and g838 where the real experts are.