Cross Country in an M820

[hethead]

I'm offshore with a very slow internet connection and can't post pictures but at some point, I will.

Part 3.

Yep. That's coolant. Luckily the leak was just a crack in the hose near the clamp so I was able to cut away some hose, push it further onto the radiator and re-clamp it. Seems tight and leak free for now.

On the road again...

Pulled into a truck stop later in the morning and saw some oil leaking out of the hub seal on the forward tandem axle. Leaking pretty bad. I pulled the axle breather and it seemed like maybe it was clogged, so I cleaned it out, put it back on and got back on the road. Next stop, the other side was leaking. I know the breather's clear but I'm not taking any chances so I found a NAPA and replaced the breather with a barbed fitting and some hose that ran up to the frame rail. I also made sure I still had a safe amount of gear oil in the diff and a few spare quarts on board.

Back on the road. Still leaking. I'll need some seals.

It took hundreds of miles but eventually it revealed itself. I'm glad I'm only doing a 1,000 mile leg before the run from Florida to Seattle. 500-600 more miles. The axle seals can wait a little longer.

It's a beautiful evening. The sunset is a golden red and this stretch of road is smooth and flat, winding through the trees. The temperature's perfect. Dad looks happy. The big Cummins is purring. Purring loudly but still purring. Curiously, it looks like my oil pressure gauge is filling with... oil? Yep. It's oil. It's halfway up the glass so I can still read the pressure though and that looks great. It's important to be positive!

Before we stopped for the night, the gauge was almost full. Not in a good way (like a fuel gauge) but in a "only a tiny bit of the needle is sticking up out of the black oil" way. I figured if it gets totally filled I'll have to deal with it. For one, I won't be able to read it, and two, if it fills completely up, the next step might be for it to burst or spring a leak, spraying hot engine oil in the cab and losing oil pressure. This is a first for me.

Next morning, the gauge is empty. As we drove through the morning, it slowly filled again, but I knew we could make it. We were almost there.

We crossed the state line into Florida leaking oil out of the axle and into the oil gauge, but a few hours later, we made it home.

The next day I adjusted the alternator. Didn't even know that was possible. It was set to 24 volts, but now it charges at around 27 and seems to work just fine. Batteries are good now too. They spin the engine over quick.

I took off the flat spot front tire and put the spare on. Wow. What a difference. I know I'm a little weird but I think this thing rides just fine. What a difference a round tire makes. I sure wish I had that one up front a thousand miles ago.

All the problems I had were addressed by Eastern in a way that I felt was fair. Some were impossible to predict. A hub seal developing a leak hundreds of miles later? An oil gauge developing an internal oil leak into the body of the gauge?

A few were oversights (bad spot on the tire, batteries low on water, etc) but they made them right and that's all I can ask. The point of this road trip story is this...

If you decide to do something like this someday, have fun. Do it. But try to budget enough time in to look over everything. Everything. before you set out on the road and leave some time for addressing any problems before you go. I wish I had a voltmeter and checked the batteries/charging system before I left. I wish I checked the tires more carefully, etc, but I didn't. I wish I spent more time under the hood, double checking everything. They're big trucks and there's a lot to cover. A lot can be missed if you hurry. And no matter how well you look them over, they are old trucks (mine's 48 years old) and when you put them on the road and start pushing them for hundreds or thousands of miles, there's a really good chance a few weaknesses are going to be exposed.

I exposed a few and luckily they were things I could deal with with basic tools (and the kindness of strangers) or they were things I could live with for a couple days on the road.

The important thing to me is, it's a sweet running engine with a good shifting transmission and after a few days of work, changing seals, fluids, a few leaky fuel o-rings, some hoses and an oil gauge, I'll be hitting the road West. 3,000 miles across this big, beautiful country.

I'm sure I'll have a few more issues creep up. I'm sure there will be times when I question my decision but I'm also sure it'll be an adventure and I can't wait.

 

[hethead]

Well, I'll cut to the chase. I left Florida, made it as far as Butte, Montana and the transfer case went out.

It jumps out of high range under load (accelerating or engine braking) I've adjusted the linkage to make sure it has full travel.

It takes the strength of 10 men to hold the lever back hard enough to keep it from jumping out and I don't expect the shift forks to last all the way to Seattle under that kind of load.

I've contacted Eastern to ask if they can help find me a replacement. I'm stranded.

I replaced the axle seals, diff oil, trans oil, transfer case oil, etc. before I left. All that went well and I didn't expect the transfer case to go out.

Anybody in the Butte area with a spare M809 transfer case laying around?

I'm hoping to hear good news from Eastern tomorrow, but I need to start planning for the worst.

 

[hethead]

I'm stuck in a parking lot, using my cell to get online, but I'll try to check back as often as I can!

Argghhh.

 

[NDT]

Well that sucks. Replacing the transfer case is a arduous job that has to be done with proper lifting equipment. Look into what options you have for getting towed to a truck repair facility. A faster option to get home might be to have your truck hauled along with you. A transportation broker can get you a step deck fast.

 

[simp5782]

Jarheadmtn has an 809 series truck and is about 35 miles from you. I can send him a message


https://www.steelsoldiers.com/member.php?33323-JarheadMtn

 

[JarheadMtn]

PM sent.

 

[hethead]

Thank you guys. I messaged Jarheadmtn to see if he has any "lines" on a xfer case in Montana.

I haven't heard back from Eastern yet, but it's probably only been a few hours since they got my email.

I'm looking for a good heavy truck shop in town right now. I can drive in low range to get there if it's close.

600 miles to Seattle at 30 mph doesn't sound like a good idea.

 

[simp5782]

Thank you guys. I messaged Jarheadmtn to see if he has any "lines" on a xfer case in Montana.

I haven't heard back from Eastern yet, but it's probably only been a few hours since they got my email.

I'm looking for a good heavy truck shop in town right now. I can drive in low range to get there if it's close.

600 miles to Seattle at 30 mph doesn't sound like a good idea.

Other idea if you cant find a case is to just have a place remove the transfer case, front drive shaft. and have a longer driveline made. They are 1710 companion flanges on the transmission end and the transfer case end and Just add a hanger bearing if the 820 doesn't have one already.

if it does just have a shaft made from the hanger bearing the transmission and get rid of the transfer case till you can rebuild or replace it.

 

[NDT]

Two things I would not do in your situation: try to open and fix the transfer away from home, or install any transfer "take out" that is not known 100% to be good.

 

[hethead]

That's the first thing that popped into my head, Simp. And NDT, I also think that's very good advice.

I actually found a fab shop willing to extend the drive shaft but I would have to pull the transfer case out, outside in the gravel, by myself, borrow tools etc, so I decided against it in the end. Great people though. Highland View repair in Butte.

I was able to "low range limp/30 mph flashers on" down the interstate a few miles to a good heavy truck shop called Silverbow Truck and Auto Center. They seem like really good people and said they'd change it out for me.

The best Eastern would do is free shipping so I took them up on it. I don't have much choice. I changed the oil in everything (including the case) before I left and what came out of there was black with a lot of metallic sludge on the drain plug. That clearly wasn't "good fluid" when it left there as was part of the deal, but that's minor at this point. The cross member that supports the transfer case linkage was also loose, I discovered. A rebuilt case is leaving PA on Monday to be shipped here and I'm flying home in a couple days. Staying at a hotel for the weekend. Any weekend flight on short notice was crazy expensive.

When the case gets here, Silverbow will put it in and call me when it's done. I'll fly back to Butte and drive it home.

I'm too exhausted to post any pics of the Florida to Butte, Montana leg, but I have quite a few to post eventually. It'll be a sweeping emotional montage.

The kid in me really likes this truck, but man, I wish I wasn't already buying a "new" transfer case.

 

[Robo McDuff]

Just found this thread and read through it. Good reading and a great trip. Good motivation for the trip in your first post, I can relate to that.

Doing such long legs, you are getting a few problems seemingly "all in one", while others have the same repairs spread out over the a few years but probably over less miles. How much would this entire trip be; 4,000 miles? Probably a lot more than most of us get on a truck in its entire MV life.

 

[hethead]

It is about 4,000 miles. 1,000 from Philadelphia to Florida, then 3,000 from Florida to Seattle.

It only showed 28,000 miles and 900 hours on the gauge so I expected a lot of seal leaks and things, maybe a starter, but I was surprised by the transfer case going out. I suppose it was a rough 900 hours.

I'm hoping the rebuilt one I'm having put in will last a lot longer than that. I'd like to do some exploring with this rig someday.

 

[NDT]

Transfer case should last indefinitely with proper lube inside and no abuse.

 

[hethead]

Thanks NDT. That's the reassurance I needed. Proper lube and "mechanical sympathy" is what it'll get from me. I do appreciate "low range 5th" to fill in the hole between 3rd and 4th in the mountains. I had to take off in low 2-5, then go to high 4 just to avoid having to use two hands at once for every single shift. One on the main box shifter and the other reaching through the steering wheel to hold back on the transfer lever until the gears were under load got me a few states further. Those long, slightly uphill grades were the best. I could rest my right arm for miles!

I checked fluid levels as I went and the transfer never lost any oil, by the way. Stayed full. I imagine the level may have even gone up as the metallic particles rained down inside it. It first "jumped out" of high range in Missouri I think. Finally gave up completely in Montana after I made it through Yellowstone.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

What kind of 'inspection' did they do where they didn't notice a loose wire that's visible upon the most cursory inspection?

Granted it's an old, used truck, and you can never guarantee 100% operation, but still....

For the premium that retail outlets charged for 'good' trucks, you'd think they'd do a better inspection.

That's crap you'd expect buying direct from an auction, not from a retail operation.

As an aside, I'd look into dualled G272s, 1200-20 Stryker tires...

 

[fasttruck]

Reference post 55 of 08.02.2018 describing engine stalling problem. In the event of a total electric failure the solenoid will shut the engine down in the absence of electrons to energize it. If you can get the truck slaved or pull start it the engine will run if you put the fuel pump in bypass. This is accomplished by turning in the bypass screw on the fuel solenoid. This is turned out for normal operation and if turned in the screw holds the fuel valve open. To shut the engine down either turn the screw out again, use the emergency shut off in the middle of the dashboard or put the truck in high gear and stall it. M809 trucks have this feature as do other models with NH Cummins. The screw is knurled but if it too stiff to operate by hand a slotted screwdriver will do.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

Reference post 55 of 08.02.2018 describing engine stalling problem. In the event of a total electric failure the solenoid will shut the engine down in the absence of electrons to energize it. If you can get the truck slaved or pull start it the engine will run if you put the fuel pump in bypass. This is accomplished by turning in the bypass screw on the fuel solenoid. This is turned out for normal operation and if turned in the screw holds the fuel valve open. To shut the engine down either turn the screw out again, use the emergency shut off in the middle of the dashboard or put the truck in high gear and stall it. M809 trucks have this feature as do other models with NH Cummins. The screw is knurled but if it too stiff to operate by hand a slotted screwdriver will View attachment 745311do.

Yup. Always good to repost info like that for people that aren't aware. It can be a lifesaver. Sometimes us old timers forget that not everyone knows all the little tips/tricks...

 

[fasttruck]

Reference to post 76: if you use the emergency shut off handle in the cab to stop the engine on a 809 series truck or a 923etc it is necessary to visit under the hood and restore this valve to the run position or the engine will not start. This is because pushing in the handle like on a M35A2 will not open the valve. The operating lever visible in the photo in post 76 will be to the rear. Push it forward to open the valve. Many units disconnected this feature to keep uninformed operators from burning up starters and batteries trying to start a truck with this valve closed.

 

[hethead]

TechnoWeenie- I do feel like there were some avoidable issues. I just had to accept it was a risky endeavor going into it and hope for the best!

Fasttruck- Thanks for the tip on the solenoid. Didn't know there was a "bypass" screw, of sorts. I'll keep that in mind in case the solenoid ever fails.

 

[TechnoWeenie]

TechnoWeenie- I do feel like there were some avoidable issues. I just had to accept it was a risky endeavor going into it and hope for the best!

Fasttruck- Thanks for the tip on the solenoid. Didn't know there was a "bypass" screw, of sorts. I'll keep that in mind in case the solenoid ever fails.

I drove an M934 from Ft. Bragg,NC to Seattle, straight from auction, with a detailed inspection and replacement of all fluids. Heh. I know about the thrill of new experiences. heh.