CRUISE CONTROL

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Mogman

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After my little run to the beach last weekend my old bone on bone knee was killing me so I decided to do "something" even if not the most ideal solution.
The factory hand throttle does not have enough travel to be used as a cruise control so I dug around and found a Vernier control from a MEP-002A, these are really cool as you can fine "tune" by twisting the knob "righty tighty, lefty loosy" and the button release in the center gives a fast "dump" of the throttle. view.jpg
I reversed the bracket and drilled it for the 3/4" control cable, I only had to drill one 1/4" hole as I used the existing hole on the what now is the passenger side.hole.jpg


In the past I have had good luck scoring the outer sheath of cables and then "snapping" it, but this cable has a linear not a spiral outer sheath so the inner cable must be removed.Outer Sheath.jpg
Don't worry if the inner cable looks like this after cutting, just carefully wind the wires back in place by hand, I would only advise using a cutoff wheel not diagonal cuttersinner core.jpg

You will also need to cut the end off of the original cable and pick up a cable stop.Stop.jpg

Warning!! when you push in the button and remove the inner cable do it over a towel, carefully remove the detent ball which is now able to fall out and don't lose the spring off of the "button" and shaft, otherwise you will spend a large amount of time wishing you had swept the shop floor to begin with...
Getting the inner cable reinstalled in the outer sheath takes some patients as it is a small hole and deep in the outer barrel, then install the button and shaft with spring, line up the detent groove in the button shaft with the hole for the detent ball. install the ball and push the inner cable in.

The cable is so short that anchoring the outer sheath for linear movement is not needed, only lateral movement needs to be addressed so I simply put the outer sheath through the mounting bolt hole for the factory cableBrace.jpg

Put the original cable end and a cable stop, put some grease on it and voila, the cable is not touching the steering wheel lock tube, it just looks that way END.jpg
This looks like it is closer to my knee than it actually is but I am rather short so your mileage may vary (You will be cutting the cable to length anyway so place the bracket where you are comfortable with it) , also notice I did replace the "civ" tach with a military unit while I had the dash out, much better now.
 
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Mogman

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That makes sense
Is it cable driven ?if so where do you get the drive from on a Humvee?
Yes it is cable driven, I just removed the engine speed sending unit (only used for diag. on the A1) and the drive is ready to go, the engine speed sensor screws into the tach cable drive,,,the 800 series (M809) tach cable is just right, need to trim the ins. on the doghouse just a little so the cable is not kinked.
 

Hummermark

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London uk
I guess you could keep the speedometer where it should be and mount rev counter some where else just with a longer flex cable if you wanted to and with a right angle drive could mount up where the wiper motor is.
Is it quite accurate on the revs per minute?
 

Mogman

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Papalote, TX
Mechanical tachs are very accurate, sure it can be mounted anywhere you can get a cable to.
I installed it in the dash panel because I am using a GPS speedo mounted in a pod behind the windshield (on top of dash is actually easier to see than in the dash panel), it was very convenient because the speedo needs no mechanical cable and there is already a cable path to the dash panel.
There is nothing less attractive about the electronic tach than the mechanical, it's just the way I wanted to go, the GPS speedo has a more desirable range (80MPH) and is not dependent on what transmission/transfer case I end up using, and the mechanical tach set me back about $80.00 with the cable.
I have a 3 3/8" hole saw and thought about locating the speedo to the left of the steering column as others have done with tachs, but I need space for future temp gauges.
 
Last edited:

Inspector 1

Member
78
34
18
Location
Spring Texas
After my little run to the beach last weekend my old bone on bone knee was killing me so I decided to do "something" even if not the most ideal solution.
The factory hand throttle does not have enough travel to be used as a cruise control so I dug around and found a Vernier control from a MEP-002A, these are really cool as you can fine "tune" by twisting the knob "righty tighty, lefty loosy" and the button release in the center gives a fast "dump" of the throttle. View attachment 792142
I reversed the bracket and drilled it for the 3/4" control cable, I only had to drill one 1/4" hole as I used the existing hole on the what now is the passenger side.View attachment 792143


In the past I have had good luck scoring the outer sheath of cables and then "snapping" it, but this cable has a linear not a spiral outer sheath so the inner cable must be removed.View attachment 792144
Don't worry if the inner cable looks like this after cutting, just carefully wind the wires back in place by hand, I would only advise using a cutoff wheel not diagonal cuttersView attachment 792145

You will also need to cut the end off of the original cable and pick up a cable stop.View attachment 792146

Warning!! when you push in the button and remove the inner cable do it over a towel, carefully remove the detent ball which is now able to fall out and don't lose the spring off of the "button" and shaft, otherwise you will spend a large amount of time wishing you had swept the shop floor to begin with...
Getting the inner cable reinstalled in the outer sheath takes some patients as it is a small hole and deep in the outer barrel, then install the button and shaft with spring, line up the detent groove in the button shaft with the hole for the detent ball. install the ball and push the inner cable in.

The cable is so short that anchoring the outer sheath for linear movement is not needed, only lateral movement needs to be addressed so I simply put the outer sheath through the mounting bolt hole for the factory cableView attachment 792148

Put the original cable end and a cable stop, put some grease on it and voila, the cable is not touching the steering wheel lock tube, it just looks that way View attachment 792149
This looks like it is closer to my knee than it actually is but I am rather short so your mileage may vary (You will be cutting the cable to length anyway so place the bracket where you are comfortable with it) , also notice I did replace the "civ" tach with a military unit while I had the dash out, much better now.
Here is a pic of the Throttle Handle. Thanks again!
 

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