CUCV Alternator Rebuild Question

[Warthog]

I have used the above kit many times. You do reuse all the screws, washers, and other assorted items.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

I see that site you linked has a hardware kit for $11. It's got all the "screws, washers, and other assorted items."

I think I'll order ONE so that I have spares on hand. I'm rebuilding both alts, just to have it done and know that they are good.

 

[donalloy1]

The alternator is a GM 27Si Type 100 unit.

Here is one company that I use for parts.

Alternator & Starter Parts Wholesale - Repair Kits - High Output Alternators

Contact them and they will get you the right bearings.

Here is the rebuild kit.

Alternator & Starter Parts Wholesale - Repair Kits - High Output Alternators - DELCO 27SI HEAVY DUTY REPAIR KIT

CUCV Electric also has rebuild kits. The owner is a member here.

http://www.cucvelectric.com/

Thanks Warthog! Thought CUCV Electric was history? Want to build #2. Kit I picked from them was excellent! DMLII sends respectfully

 

[Warthog]

CUCV Electric is history but there are rumors they may be back.

this thread started a couple of years ago and needs to be updated.

 

[donalloy1]

Please keep us posted!

 

[scottladdy]

Hope this old post of mine helps with answering the question of what can be used for providing isolated ground:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...ately-Part-1&p=1318792&viewfull=1#post1318792

Looks like Wilson Electric will utilize whatever is available.


Added the linked post to this thread.

I just replaced the drivers side alternator in my M1008A1, err, sort of.

Back story
At some point in it's life, the drivers side alternator was replaced with a brand new (as in a few years newer than original) alt. Correct part number, but clearly a much newer casting. Then, it looks like the alt was hacked up a bit. It worked OK though.

Last Fall I took it apart to freshen it with parts from CUCV Electric. Well, I knew something was up when I looked at the rotor winding. It clearly had been overheated (over current) at some point. Not having the time to deal with it then I decided to button it back up. Hey, the brushes were barely worn. I figured I could go with it until it got warmer in the Spring and I could figure out what to do to it then.

Well, my cousin Murphy said no to my plans. One night on the way home from a troop meeting I heard a pop, headlights dimmed, and Gen 1 light came on all bright and shiney like. I took the alternator apart to find the rotor was now open. Clearly, the over current she suffered in the past had taken it's toll.

So, instead of buying a new rotor for about $120 (cheapest I could find). I decided to pick up a Wilson. Refurbed in Mexico. Heeding the concerns I read here about them not being properly rebuilt, isolated ground and all, my plan was to scavenge the good bits from the Wilson and rebuild the original. Success on this front.

What did I find out about the Wilson?
Well, when I got it apart, it was clear that this was more of a refresh than a rebuild, and certainly not a re-manufacture. It was tested and had a cert in the box that "proved" it was good. But, corners were cut.

The good
New bearings
Clean housing (mostly)
New battery and "r" terminals
New brushes (but one of them was cracked near the tip)
It was isolated ground, sort of.
New hardware (mostly) was used
Nice packaging

The OK (functional but re-used components)
Voltage Reg
Diode Trio
Rectifier (made in China sticker)
Capacitor
Brush Holder
Stator (expected this)
Rotor (expected this, out of a cadi and has an SAE thread, but aside from that appears identical to the original)
Front Housing helicoiled to SAE equivalent (not a bad job, and they provided a bolt, but would have been better if made metric as original)

The Bad
Insulating washers for the rectifier weren't "right". The correct pieces are fairly flush, these were a little too thick.
The negative terminal is now a large head screw. It should be OK, but clearly a lower cost option than the "proper" negative terminal.
The insulator for the negative terminal is a hodge podge of fiber washers (not correct thickness as noted above) and a small section of vinyl tubing for the through case insulator.

So, I think the Wilson alternator would work. But given the fact that some of the more failure prone items weren't replaced, coupled with the improvised hardware, I'm not sure about longevity. Would I buy one again given my circumstances? Sure. Got it mail order for about $150. I have a lot of spare parts now, and my drivers side alt is functioning just fine again. Overall I spent less going this route than if I had replaced the failed parts with new. And, since I did the re-build, I am certain of the job.

I hope this helps others.

 

[Kwheely]

Unfortunately the link isn’t working for me but when I go to the aspwholesale it shows me two separate part numbers for the rebuild kit, would you be able to clarify which one it is? One of the bearings started to go in the alt and if I’m digging that deep I decided to just rebuild the entire thing and carry on. It’d be much appreciated, thank you

 

[joshuak]

Member Tow4 provides another option...

https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?146702-Delco-Alternator-Rebuild-kits-for-alternator-p-n-1105500

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Unfortunately the link isn’t working for me but when I go to the aspwholesale it shows me two separate part numbers for the rebuild kit, would you be able to clarify which one it is? One of the bearings started to go in the alt and if I’m digging that deep I decided to just rebuild the entire thing and carry on. It’d be much appreciated, thank you

Here's the hardware kit.

I was not able to find the rebuild kit. Their site layout changed a few years ago and it's a pain to find anything now. Even knowing what I'm looking for I had trouble finding the correct alternator, and had no success finding the rebuild kit.

I'm sure it will be easier to PM TOW4, as suggested. He'll get you squared away.

 

[joshuak]

Just for giggles, here are the two rebuild kits ASP offers on their website for the 27SI.

The respective parts lists show that they have the same items, except that the regulator and diode trio switch PNs for some reason.

KIt 7135K

1, 39-101-3 ~ BRUSH HOLDER ASSEMBLY
1, 46-1101 ~ CAPACITOR
1, 46-1851 ~ RESISTOR
1, 6-203-4W ~ BALL BEARING, D.E.
1, 8-101 ~ NEEDLE BEARING
1, D1001 ~ REGULATOR
1, D101HD ~ DIODE TRIO
1, DR5082HD ~ RECTIFIER

Kit 7157MK

1, 39-101-3 ~ BRUSH HOLDER ASSEMBLY
1, 46-1101 ~ CAPACITOR
1, 46-1851 ~ RESISTOR
1, 6-203-4W ~ BALL BEARING, D.E.
1, 8-101 ~ NEEDLE BEARING
1, D1001 ~ DIODE-TRIO
1, D101HD ~ REGULATOR
1, DR5082HD ~ RECTIFIER