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CUCV alternators - I'm still confused

cucv1833

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Lake Charles, LA
A fair price for an alternator rebuild is around $85. I have seen them from $50 to $165. Depends on the shop and what they are replacing.

You can buy the kit and rebuild it yourself for less than $50. This includes all the internal electricals and bearings. The TM 9-2320-289-34 Tech Manual covers the rebuild step buy step with pictures.


I rebuilt both of mine i paid $80 for 1 and $65 for the other 1 was cheaper cause he didnt replace the pully. I like using local shops. The owner knew exacly what it was for cause he saw the isolated ground and he use to have a contract with the Army rebuilding them.
 

hmsgoodhope

Member
58
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Location
Great Falls, VA
M1009 Alt Rebuild

Hi Folks,

Looking for some where in N. VA where I can get both my M1009 Alts rebuilt. I picked up another isolated ground (Passenger side) alt as a spare (would like drivers side one if I can find as well for shelf parts). Current units are off of a M1009 with 76K - truck is in good shape and runs - has not been ridden hard so I hope they will both be salvageable. Any ideas contacts that I can physically take parts to close by (N. VA) would be appreciated. Seller told me alts were bad - sure enough voltmeter and new batteries proved this out.

Cheers,

Ed
 

Farmin2010

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I'm gonna start this back up because it's hinted at but not said. What are the part numbers to be able to do the rebuild? I've got the TM out and want to do the alt rebuild, but don't know what alt to tell the parts store guy's I need a rebuild for...
 

doghead

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Clean the casing off near the top bolt tab. The alternator part number and amp rating is stamped on the alternator.
 

Farmin2010

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Thanks, but using that number and a search online all I can get is the rebuilt alts, I want the parts for the rebuild. I know the voltage regulator is what's bad in mine, but I figured while I had it open I should check on what else "usually" gets replaced when they rebuild them. And I've yet to find a parts store that can get the voltage regulator from the alternator part number itself.

Also in the TM it talks about using a drycleaning solvent P-D-680. What's a civilian equivilant that I could use?
 

doghead

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You need components for a Delco 27si alt. Anyplace with alt parts should be able to help you.

All the internal parts have been listed here on SS by myself and probably a few other members.

Try an advanced search in the cucv forum for Spring Hill Auto or Springhill Auto.


or a Google search for Delco 27si voltage regulator. Here's one result from Google. http://store.alternatorparts.com/delco-3.aspx


Here's a direct link to ASPW, they used to be Springhill. http://www.aspwholesale.com/
 
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cygni32

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Old Iron Contact

I can't seem to get the Old Iron Web Site to work for me, anybody have a number that i can call them.
 

Warthog

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OD Iron is closed for business until furture notice. Hopefully they will be back in business after they get some internal issues worked out.
 
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cygni32

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Thanks, any new sources for CUCV alternators. I bought one from Rare Electrical and it lasted 2 months, stator wiring is shorted out somewhere. I will probably return it and use the replacement as a spare only. I would like to have the same heavy duty part that came with the truck, I drive upward of 700 miles a week and need it to be dependable. (Yes, I drive the truck that many miles just as it came from the military, no radio and all, my wife thinks I gone leave of my senses.)
 

Warthog

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NAPA has a remanufactured Isolated Ground Alternator. WIL 90014277. Wilson Alternator rebuilds them. Cost ~$220.

Just make sure you test the alternator before you install it. They have had some issues with the rebuilds of NOT being isolated grounds.
 

idM1028

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Somewhere in Nebraska
I just know I'm going to get nailed on this one: If you have both original alts (I.E. isolated ground) The autozone alt in the GEN1 position is not that bad an idea. I don't know why it says 78 amps in the wiki, autozone rates it as 100 amps on their website: Duralast/Alternator (DL7157) | AutoZone.com
I really haven't had the need or desire to have it tested, but it charges the battery fine. In addition it has a lifetime warranty. If it goes out, you take it back, they get you a new one. I had this happen to the first one I bought. Had it in the truck for a couple months when the bearing went out, causing the fan to smack the case. It still put out voltage though. Went to autozone, pulled it out (in the parking lot no less), took it in, got a new one in 10 minutes or so. I didn't pay a penny. To boot, I paid a bit over $100 for it when I first bought it. You can take your original GEN1 out, drop the autozone alt in and put GEN1 in your "rainy day" or "oh ****" box Just my 2cents
 
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