Cucv battery problem/power box dr. fender?

[kmar2006]

Ive been having problems with the batteries dying on an 86 cucv ambulance that was converted to a pickup. There brand new interstate mil. green ones. I had an alternator shop check the alternators and he came back explaining that the box mounted on the drivers side inner fender towards the front of the truck was bad, and that it was pulling voltage. What does this box do? I can't rember if their in the pickups too, or just the ambulances? ne help? i couldnt find anyotehr posts in here about this subject. Also, He explained that i should strip out the 24 volt system and convert to 12v, i just put a new starter in it along with 24v glow plugs. What should i do? he didnt seem to excided about 24v? i figured as long as it works right, which it was besides the batetries dying, to keep it. Thanx!

 

[acetomatoco]

The Blue Box was the secondary regulator on the Ambulances and maybe one of the Pickups with the Radio Setup? The alternators on the ambulance are 24 Volt Leece Nevilles as compared to the two 12 volt in series on the rest of the CUCV. The blue boxes were prone to burning the ambus to the ground. They had some kind of circuit which would determine when the 12 V battery which supplied most of the power for the rig needed to be charged more than the other one... But the heated clean air filters on the ambu were 24 V and needed big ampereage to work right.. note the added fuse box under the bench on the driver's side rear... When you convert to a vehicle other than the ambu it is prudent to put the std alternators on and eliminate the blue box. Or, even easier just convert the whole thing to 12 V while you have the body off and the harnesses cut. I have had 4 of the M1010 and the battery dead syndrome was a common occurance. Using shut off switches on the batts when parked for more than a few hours cured? the problem. Have fun.

 

[kmar2006]

okay, my main problem is that the truck is already a pickup, it was given to us (a vol. fire dept) by the state (PA) and it came like this, we got it running, but the bed and everything else was already converted over. I hope im correct by saying it was an ambulance because it has the air conditioning compressor (cut and plugged lines) the duvac system, and the heavuy duty alternators. But it has standard pickup id tags and weight ratings. ne help with that also.?how can i tell for sure? Were looking for the easist was to make the system charge because everything else works well and we'd like to get it in service asap. I looked at the duvac but dont know which way to go. The links on another post wouldnt work for me (toadmail)>? thanx

 

[m4A1]

You may have a shelter carrier with the a/c setup, I've heard of them but haven't seen any.

 

[Ambulancechser]

duvac...

I had the same troubles you describe.since it's a converted ambulance,you should see a small black/aluminum box mounted just aft of the duvac.this little box is the switch (don't ask me just how it works...i just know what it does) that cycles one of the alternators to either charge the front batt' or stay off under light loads.turns out,mine was fried,and causing a grounding problem and a battery drain.

That switch set-up is what's supposed to keep the batteries charge balanced,as the original setup is a "center tapped" battery bank.the system as original,never seemed to work very well at all.as you mention,it usually fries the rear battery due to over charge,and kills the front due to undercharge/sulfation.the system as original,was "overthought" and under engineered,but to be fair,i don't think that there were a lot of really high capacity 24-v alternators available off the rack at that time that would suit.

in my case,not really aware of the precise cause of my problems,i pulled one alternator and the entire duvac system.i then installed a bettery equalizer,which serves to provide a center tap in the battery bank,and allows for precise control of charging.i wanted to keep 24/12-volt as i still had the 24-v air conditioning and rear heater installed.this has worked perfectly and has proven very reliable,in a wide range of temperatures and conditions.

Since you have an already converted truck body,i don't imagine you have a real need for 24-volt.a 12-volt conversion would work well for you.iirc-rosscommon equipment still has instructions on-line to do the conversion.if you need 24-v,then you might pull an alternator and rewire the system to use your original duvac (blue box) as an equalizer,as it IS an equalizer.one alternator only though,and this assumes it's in good order.pull the diode switch thingy and all attendant wiring and toss it.if the blue box is bad,and you still want 24-v...then a new equalizer is in order.you should be able to get one with sufficiant capacity on the 12-volt side (about 60 amps) for around $ 400-U.S.

if your concerned about power...the leece-nevilles are big.one at 24-volt will provide plenty of power,as they have a nominal 100 amp output.that output at 24-v is plenty of juice.

 

[choll]

RE: duvac...

I have a M1028 that is wired this way. Look on the drivers door data plate if it is a 1028 it will be at the very top of the plate. The plate will be located on the door not the door jam.

 

[kmar2006]

RE: duvac...

Okay i do have a need for the 24v system... could i take off the entire duvac system and replace the old alternators with the ones that were on the regular pickup? and match the wiring to the pickup? a neighboring fire company has a standard 24v pickup.

 

[Michael]

RE: duvac...

You can do that if you can find all of the parts. I just saw two M1010s on GL that the military had done just that.

 

[choll]

RE: duvac...

Does anyone know how to do this I have all the parts from two other trucks. I am so frustrared with this I want to switch it to 12 volts but no one I email can tell me how to do it. I have all the parts for this to if someone can tell me how. I did change my blazer to 12 volts but cant find anything to convert the 1010 setup

 

[Michael]

RE: duvac...

Try http://www.roscommonequipmentcenter.com/news_notes/nn10.pdf

The AC in the back is 24 volts so it will quit working if you change to 12 volts.

You will have to remove the AC compressor to put the M1008/9 system in a M1010.

I went through the TM 20 and then the TM 30 and got my M1010 to work reasonably well so I can't tell you step by step how to convert it.

 

[kmar2006]

RE: duvac...

will the 1009 alternators bolt into the brackets for the 1010 and is there any type of voltage regulator needed for that conversion? or could i just swap 2 alternators and run wiring matching the 1009? thanx

 

[Michael]

RE: duvac...

will the 1009 alternators bolt into the brackets for the 1010

probably not, the alternators are much different in size

is there any type of voltage regulator needed for that conversion?

no, it is built into the 1009's alternators

could i just swap 2 alternators and run wiring matching the 1009? thanx

You could remove the 1010's alternators, brackets, ac compressor, blue box and associated wiring, and replace it with everything from a M1009.

Another idea I had was to use a HUMMWV alternator with the 24 and 12 volts posts. Anybody have a picture of one in a truck?

 

[devilman96]

RE: duvac...

Another idea I had was to use a HUMMWV alternator with the 24 and 12 volts posts. Anybody have a picture of one in a truck?

It would never fit and the 12V output is far to low to supply the truck, plus you would need a 3rd battery if ya could stick it in there.