CUCV Cooling System Upgrade Kit

[Rustyshackelford]

Have yall tried swapping to a 180 deg thermostat? I also swapped to a 6 blade 20inch fan. The stock 5 blade fan isn't up the task. Even towing my tractor in 100+ Texas heat it never breaks 190 now.

Sorry to derail here but where can a fella find this 20" fan and is it a direct fit?

eta. Disregard, I will start a new thread.

 

[911joeblow]

Just a little update, the rear plate is on the way from a SS member, I am machining up parts and some are being laser cut. There is a bit of a back log at the laser cutter so it will be at least 2-3 weeks before I can test fit the kit components on a CUCV.

 

[dan1008]

Does anyone here have a HMMWV coolant crossover tube p/n 12554091 for sale? I need it for my M1008 CUCV so I can install a mechanical water temp sensor in it. Ebay is very difficult to register. It rejects my legitimate address as I reside in WA State where the post office does not deliver mail to houses, just the PO Boxes. Please let me know and we can go from there.

 

[911joeblow]

Here are some pics of the HMMWV kits going out right now...

 

[dan1008]

Thanks Joe. I found one from 86humv and the shipment is being arranged. However, I may consider your upgrade kit (good idea) at later date.

 

[sschaefer3]

I did the bigger fan, HD fan clutch and flow kool t-stat and my truck is much better, but I would still like to do this kit as well because of the ridiculously high temperatures in Phoenix in the summer.

 

[peglegwillie]

Again impressed with design and function of this apparatus please advise on its availability and when I can purchase a set !!!

 

[911joeblow]

>>>UPDATE<<<

OK I have a question for the group. The Glow Plug Inhibit Switch that is the rear left side block off plate is causing some issues with me getting these kits to market. The reality is that I never run them myself and adding $80 to the cost of the kit to maintain them when most people bypass them anyways seems silly. For those not aware of their function, they are a bypass for the glow plugs so when the engine is hotter than 125F this switch opens and does not allow any current to the glow plugs. Later 6.2s and all subsequent 6.5 and 6.5T engines did away with this. The reason they stopped using it is that the engine benefits even from a short heat cycle of the glow plugs to start when warm or hot. Also failure of the switch leaves you dead in the water. So many, like me, just bypass it by either cutting the connector and soldering the wires together or using a plug. By eliminating this the kits will be cheaper and you will have a better starting and more reliable truck.

Will me offering the kit with an electrical bypass for this switch turn off any buyers?

Now for the update: The laser cut adapter plates came back but are not the quality I expected and as such are being returned. I have a new shop doing them with a better CNC laser cutter. When these are done we can start shipping kits assuming the switch issue above is received positively. I can start taking pre-orders next week.

 

[sschaefer3]

I use a glow plug controller card, not a switch, as long as my controller card still works, I'm fine. If I understand what you are saying, this just turns the card off when the engine is hot, so the card will still work. With the electrical bypass. Correct?

If that is the case, it's fine with me.

 

[911joeblow]

Yes, that is correct. This switch is just an on/off. Cold to 125F it is closed (making continuity), 126F+ is is open (no continuity). Your glow plug controller is still working in either case but it's signal to turn on the glow plugs is interrupted by this switch. Bypassing will allow your GP controller to always work.

 

[sschaefer3]

Ok, that's fine with me.

 

[911joeblow]

So that one yea vote...

 

[Drock]

I have a coupe questions. I have an M1028 with a HMMWV crossover, so do you have a kit for this? How much cooler can be expected? And would electric fans work better then the stock mechanical one?

 

[911joeblow]

I have a coupe questions. I have an M1028 with a HMMWV crossover, so do you have a kit for this? How much cooler can be expected? And would electric fans work better then the stock mechanical one?

So in your case you would use a standard HMMWV kit. We have those on the shelf for immediate shipment.

The overall system temperature is not greatly reduced as that is more a function of the thermostat temperature and the cooling system volume. However you will see a dramatic change in the balance across the engine and with this, greatly reduced mechanical fan cycles and reduced 'on' time when it does come on. You will also see more power from that as well as from the reduced temperatures at the rear two cylinders. The cabin temps will go down too and the system will maintain a constant bleed of air pockets. This setup really fixes the bad block cooling design which contributes to the failures these engines have in the rearmost cylinders and lower bearing issues and cracks.

On the HMMWVs we do like to use electric fans, however we dont remove the mechanical fan. We dont have a CUCV setup but on the HMMWVs we use dual 24V fans with a very nice 24V variable speed fan controller which in combination with the cooling system upgrade kit virtually eliminates the mechanical fan from coming on. We like to leave the mechanical however as it is there for those really big hills when pulling a heavy load and as a back up. The biggest benefit of this set-up is the huge noise reduction without the mechanical fan coming on and the added HP from the same. The overall system temp is reduced as the variable fans will always run but at reduced speeds when warmed up to keep the temps a little lower and to keep some air moving through the engine bay which keeps the cabin cooler as well.

 

[Drock]

So in your case you would use a standard HMMWV kit. We have those on the shelf for immediate shipment.

The overall system temperature is not greatly reduced as that is more a function of the thermostat temperature and the cooling system volume. However you will see a dramatic change in the balance across the engine and with this, greatly reduced mechanical fan cycles and reduced 'on' time when it does come on. You will also see more power from that as well as from the reduced temperatures at the rear two cylinders. The cabin temps will go down too and the system will maintain a constant bleed of air pockets. This setup really fixes the bad block cooling design which contributes to the failures these engines have in the rearmost cylinders and lower bearing issues and cracks.

On the HMMWVs we do like to use electric fans, however we dont remove the mechanical fan. We dont have a CUCV setup but on the HMMWVs we use dual 24V fans with a very nice 24V variable speed fan controller which in combination with the cooling system upgrade kit virtually eliminates the mechanical fan from coming on. We like to leave the mechanical however as it is there for those really big hills when pulling a heavy load and as a back up. The biggest benefit of this set-up is the huge noise reduction without the mechanical fan coming on and the added HP from the same. The overall system temp is reduced as the variable fans will always run but at reduced speeds when warmed up to keep the temps a little lower and to keep some air moving through the engine bay which keeps the cabin cooler as well.

The problem I'm having is this...M1028 (Banks turbo), (Gearvendors O.D.), (31" tires), (HMMWV crossover), (New 6.5 heads with studs).....At highway speeds 70-75 MPH the temp runs 205°, but can get up to 215°. I'm not sure if this is normal or too hot? The mechanical fan only seems to come on after I've stopped for a few minutes at an off ramp. My temp gauge probe is mounted in the HMMWV crossover, just behind the thermostat, and I'm running a 195° stat.

 

[911joeblow]

So based on our testing and measurements if your system is seeing 215deg (assuming the gauge is correct) then the front cylinders water jacket area is around 190deg and the rear is around 240deg. The overall temp of 205-215deg is really not bad but the rear cylinders are cooking without the kit. I can tell you this, after our kit you will see similar temps on your gauge say 200-210deg but you see more power and less heat in the cabin and your engine will last a lot longer. I would start there and hold off on electric fans just yet.

 

[ken]

You may want to swap to a 180 tsat also. The original banks kit came with a 180 tsat. The fan is likely working right. If your driving enough air should be coming across to keep the fan in free wheel. Once you stop it gets hot enough to come on.

 

[Drock]

So based on our testing and measurements if your system is seeing 215deg (assuming the gauge is correct) then the front cylinders water jacket area is around 190deg and the rear is around 240deg. The overall temp of 205-215deg is really not bad but the rear cylinders are cooking without the kit. I can tell you this, after our kit you will see similar temps on your gauge say 200-210deg but you see more power and less heat in the cabin and your engine will last a lot longer. I would start there and hold off on electric fans just yet.

How do I order your kit? And does anybody have a part number for the 180° thermostat?

 

[911joeblow]

How do I order your kit? And does anybody have a part number for the 180° thermostat?

I will PM you the details. We take PayPal for everyone's security. Thanks

Napa has the 180deg thermostats, I dont have a part number handy but get the correct one with the rubber section.

 

[911joeblow]

OK Gentlemen,

Like we did with the HMMWV kits we are going to start with a small run as we tool up for production. There are a couple of distinct differences in the HMMWV kits and CUCV based kits. The biggest is the lack of proper return in the CUCV crossover which necessitated a custom adapter which fits between the crossover and the radiator outlet nipple flange. We attempted to laser cut these to keep costs down but the quality was not to our standards. The final design is a CNC machined aluminum unit which allows for us to return the rear block stagnated coolant back into the return flow as is needed to properly balance these blocks and remains a complete bolt-on affair. The previously discussed outdated and finicky glow plug switch is eliminated with this kit which includes a wire jumper that is plug and play with the connector. Minus some differences in the hose lengths and such, the rest of the kit remains unchanged. However the additional parts do come at a cost. These kits are slated to cost $300 once in full production, we will offer a SS discount of $10 so $290 for SS members in good standing. To help us get these kits to market we are going to offer the first 5 kits at $270. This is a first come first served offer which we use to fund the production run which is when we will start to make some profit. The first 5 kits cost us more than we are selling them for. We will deliver all 5 kits in 3-4 weeks and after that it will be 2-3 months for the production run to be finished for kits 6+. All orders are PayPal protected and have a 1 year warranty. Thanks for your interest and I look forward to continuing on with more modification kits for the CUCVs in short order.