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Cucv for a 1k

MilitaryPickers

New member
27
0
0
Location
Hamden ct
Hey guys wondering if you can help me out. My buddy owns a car dealership. He just got in a 1986 cucv with 40k on it. It came from a local police depT in ct. He want 1500 for it she needs work exterior body is fine but very rusty underneath. Will def need new wheel wells and interior work on the dash. Other then that truck runs and drives great. 6.2 diesel 4wd. I know nothing about these. Please help is this a good deal or should I pass based on what you hear. Sorry no pics
 

stampy

Active member
1,321
22
38
Location
Henderson. NC
I would say go for it. I see many of these going for 3-7 k and some of the 3 K vehicles have rust issues. I guess it also depends on your skill with metal shears, a grinder and a welder. Some sweat equity should pay you off hansomely.
 

ARYankee

Well-known member
1,972
25
48
Location
Benton, AR
I would also say go for it. Prices at auction have been very high. It all depends on what you want to spend.
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,604
1,484
113
Location
mid- michigan
It don't sound like a bad deal , but I would look the cab mounts and door pillars over real close . If they are rotted out your looking at project .

Edit ; Also look the frame over real good between the cab and the front shackles on the rear springs . This area is known to rust through .
 
Last edited:
479
0
16
Location
Madison, WI
Yeah that sounds like a great deal. It's hard to find even a non-running/parts 1008 for around $1k. The interiors on all CUCV's are usually in need of TLC. There's LOTS of info on this site to help you learn about these trucks though, they are fairly simple. Lots of guys on here were totally newbs when they first got their CUCV. Most parts for these trucks are easily to find.

If the rust doesn't look too bad I say go for it.
 

MilitaryPickers

New member
27
0
0
Location
Hamden ct
Cool guys thanks. Here's a little more info. Wiring harness is good, still has 24 volt system, has a cap, all lights including black out work, cab floor is solid bed floor solid. I offerd him 1k he did accept. I'm gong to test drive on Monday or Tuesday. Will post photos and results then
 
481
10
18
Location
Charlotte, MI
It don't sound like a bad deal , but I would look the cab mounts and door pillars over real close . If they are rotted out your looking at project .

Edit ; Also look the frame over real good between the cab and the front shackles on the rear springs . This area is known to rust through .
Very good advice. Personally, I HATE RUST. I'd rather deal with mechanical issues than fix rust. Wheel wells are not an issue as these are very common rust areas but frame and mounts are another story. The price is very low but if you have to spend a lot of time and money getting it presentable, you need to put that in perspective. Although I was initially just looking for a dependable wood hauler to park beside the barn, I was lucky enough to be able to choose between several 1008s at a nearby surplus outlet. I chose one that was stationed in Nevada so the body and undercarriage is rock solid.
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,014
1,813
113
Location
GA Mountains
You can easily recover your investment in selling it off for parts. Drive it until your feet hang out and then either replace the cab or part it. Sounds like it has many good years to contribute before being retired. Super useful truck in anyones driveway.
 

ssdvc

Well-known member
971
639
93
Location
CT
Get it. If you don't take it let me know and I'll go look at. I am very close.:twisted:
 
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