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CUCV Front Winch Mount

J

Jozseph

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FWIW....Do not get offended we have all these "Arm Chair Engineers" commenting.

dmilkman589 you already have your 3D Model, run your 3D Model through a "Finite element analysis (FEA) and simulation software"

If you need a program look at LISA, a free finite element analysis software package; http://lisafea.com

Regards

Joseph
 
MarcusOReallyus

MarcusOReallyus

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Jozseph said:
dmilkman589 you already have your 3D Model, run your 3D Model through a "Finite element analysis (FEA) and simulation software"
Click to expand...

Yes, please do, and post the results. Should be fun.


Oh, by the way, Jozeph, my boss won't let me have an armchair at the office. :(
 
Skinny

Skinny

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I think it is a great idea and I'm sure the actual points of attachment will hold the force but I would be concerned with the leverage factor. The D-rings really have none. I winch has a lot. A winch tray typically spreads that out across the length of frame rail it is bolted to. That is my biggest concern using the front receiver hitch setup on my M1031.

I'm no armchair engineer...I just cringe when I see my winch mount move under load :shock:
 
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detroitmuscle1986

detroitmuscle1986

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The CUCV that attended the 2014 Ultimate Adventure has a winch mount very similar to this! Just watched the episodes posted on youtube this afternoon. It may be something to check out!
 
Big CASE

Big CASE

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I would like to know the cost $$ , i was thinking of something like this for my M1028A3 . if you are going to make any. I would like one maybe ?? . the Idea of the side bracing, I think would be a good Idea to do.
THOUGHT ?? maybe have the it weld on and do ext on the front to put the D-ring back on the front .
 
bushhawg73

bushhawg73

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This is the winch mount I have for my truck. It was fabed by a local welding machine shop for my dad and he gave it to me many years later. Not sure what it cost to have it made. Its very heavy. I have yet to install it on my truck due to some problems with the winch solenoids. Just wanted to show it off as a reference. Basically you just remove your clevises, slide it into place and use an extra clevise pin to secure it to the tubes. That holds it in place. Then you can put your existing clevises in the most forward holes so there still usable. We also have a bolt that is dropped from the top, through the tube and then the mount and a nut is placed on the bottom to make it solid and without any movement. Hope that is understandable LOL


IMG_2617.jpgIMG_2618.jpgIMG_2619.jpgIMG_2623.jpg
 
richingalveston

richingalveston

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Is that a mile marker 12k that you are having problems with the solenoid
looks like mine, may have an extra solenoid box If you are in need.
or if yours quits let me know, I might need some parts.
 
llong66

llong66

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Bushhawg73, that is so close to an idea I have been tossing around. Have you thought of making provisions for being able to mount it on the rear? I know on my M1008, the distance between the frame extensions is slightly different, I cant remember exactly. Just a thought but I love the design, especially the way you made it able to put the hooks back on!

Greg
 
bushhawg73

bushhawg73

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richingalveston said:
Is that a mile marker 12k that you are having problems with the solenoid
looks like mine, may have an extra solenoid box If you are in need.
or if yours quits let me know, I might need some parts.
Click to expand...
I really have no idea what the issue is. My father gave it to me and said it had a bad solenoid and he just did not want it anymore so I took it and placed it on a shelf for the TO DO SOMEDAY SOON.

Thanks for the offer on the solenoid, I will let you know if I need it OR if mine craps out I will let you know in case you want it as a parts unit.
 
bushhawg73

bushhawg73

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llong66 said:
Bushhawg73, that is so close to an idea I have been tossing around. Have you thought of making provisions for being able to mount it on the rear? I know on my M1008, the distance between the frame extensions is slightly different, I cant remember exactly. Just a thought but I love the design, especially the way you made it able to put the hooks back on!

Greg
Click to expand...
Greg, I was unaware of the difference but you are correct. I just measured mine and it is 31 3/4 outside to outside on the front and 32 3/4 outside to outside on the rear. I just assumed they were the same. The inside of my mount is 32 inches which gives just a little play when you and your strong friend are mounting it. I would prefer that it could be a front or rear mount but I am stuck with what I have at this point. Based on how close the extensions are in distance apart from the front to rear I am not sure how you would accomplish the ability to be a front/rear mount. You possibly could use a tube 2X as wide as the stock extensions. Then use a shim of sorts to take up the difference based on if it was on the front or rear.

I think the concept is a very good one and it should be explored. Right now the biggest change I would have made to the mount I have would be to make the rounded tab extend out farther so that it was easier to remount the clevises and have them swing free. Mine is a little tight and the clevises are forced to the outside of the mount since they hit the plate that is running at an angle toward the fairlead.


I would love to see what you come up with Greg.
 
llong66

llong66

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Hi!, I had planned on putting one set of "mounts" on top of the winch plate, similar to yours, and one set on the bottom side.
Do you know if the outside demensions on the square tubing you used would allow a padlock to be placed through the holes on one side if you wanted to keep it mounted?
I'm thinking one of those good quality round style master locks, if it fits it would be very hard to get a set of cutters on Id think, but maybe not.
 
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