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After working several long days and getting no time to unwrap my painting I decided to do it tonight. Even after 15 hours today at work I still had a smile when I finished the unwrapping of the Mule. I did a lot of extra taping to avoid any over spray on the jams and hinges. I did some extra taping to get the plastic cowl screen to still be black after the entire Mule was repainted. Oh yea dig the fancy dash pad. I had that done down in Tijuana. Nice. I have a Camouflage cover that goes over it.
I had the new window rubber installed with my old windshield. the other rubber was still good but had paint on it and I had a GM new in box one in stock and I am tired of storing never use parts. On with it. New LED green B/O Lamp.Before slave connection with old cover.Now with new cover. It was in my tool box and it was time to be used. Thank you for looking. I did work on several CUCV's today.
My Son gave me an 87 K10 front end for a Fathers day gift. I know strange gift. but he knows I like stuff like that. This is the grille from the front end. After some removal of chrome trim, cutting, grinding, sanding and paint it takes on a new look. This is the before the grille look. This is after the grille is set in place for fitting. Then I remembered I had a HMMWV horn I wanted to install. The MFG date was 10/09 I thought how fitting for the M1009. It is 24 volt and I wired it to a separate button. After some more sanding , taping and painting I installed the grille. I needed to hook up the batteries and check the lights operation before tightening it all down. it is hard to believe I spent 6 hours with this grille build and install. But it looks good in my opinion. I will need to go the extra mile and get LED head lights.
I have a few of these NOS M1009 rear bumpers. This one was painted 686 tan and in the wrapper. I had it in the rafters of the barn since 9/07. I advertised these NOS bumpers and no takers. I had a nice NOS 383 green on the Mule and did not want to re-paint it so I will just install this nice new one. Hey I can put the takeoff in the wrapper and store that one. Thanks for looking.
After i overhauled the jaw and spring on the pintle hook I installed the pintle and the rear bumper. I used standard 1/2' carriage bolts. I sanded and painted them with new bolts and 1/2 serrated flange nuts it makes putting bumpers on a 3/8" ratchet job and no annoying pain and suffering from using the old hardware. I will be putting LED back up lamps in the B/O bumper slots. I must get the front bumper painted. I only have NOS in epoxy prime and need to paint a brush guard 686 tan also. Thank you for looking and have a great day.
I was in the process of reassembling my Mule project M1009 and I noticed the taillamp reflector base mounts were a bit dull looking. I removed the gaskets and washed them with some pre-wash cleaner and painted them with bright aluminum spray paint. What a difference. I installed the rear lamp base and rerouted all my wiring and clipped it in place. I dug around a little in my stash of parts and looked at the new tail lamp covers I have been storing. With all this work and fuss I decided to put new GM tail lamps in the Mule. Why not they are just taking up space. I can always store the take outs and don't have to be a fussy hiding them. I put all the M1008 tail gate rubbers and bumper in the tail gate of my M1009 Mule. It looks like a factory update. Today I was slowed by weather and preparation for an out of state trip I will be taking in the AM. Thank you for looking and keep up the good work on your projects.
My special box came in the UPS today. I had to have these for the Mule also. they are Truck Lite LED headlamps. This is the second pair of these I bought. I had some new buckets for the lights and wanted to keep the tan look so I sanded and painted a pair of trim rings also and seated them with SS screws. The lights come with a small tube of dielectric grease. Enough to do the entire exterior lighting system on the Mule. I like the look and the fit is great. It makes the front end look nice with the different lighting combination.
Low beam.High beam.Quadra beam. the 2 driving light in the normal turn park position are Bosch Halogen driving lamps. The halogen lights are yellow by comparison to the LED's. And I always thought these halogen driving lights were very bright. Times have changed. I completed the battery install and the tie down brackets. I fussed with the cable to get them where I wanted them and p clamped and wire tied them in place. I worked on getting everything fastened and worked on the details and cosmetics of the under hood. I put the rear hood seal on and completed the firewall and left inner fender. Under hood is 95% complete. I want to get a fresh look at it tomorrow. Thank you for looking.
I like the lights!! What model number are they? Where did you order them from and how much were they? I was looking for something like these 2 days ago.
Keep up the good work with your projects, I love reading about them everyday.
Trucklite, 27450C LED Rectangular headlamp 5 X 7.
Light Source:
2 LED Arrays
9v-33v Multi-volt design works with both
12v and 24v systems
5'' x 7'' Rectangular LED Headlamp, Complex Reflector Optics
Material:
Hard-coated polycarbonate lens
eCoat aluminum housing and internal structures
Metalized Reflector
16 Gauge Wire
Light Source:
2 LED Arrays
9v-33v Multi-volt design works with both
12v and 24v systems
Designed At:
12.8v, 1.80a (low beam), 3.60 amps (high beam)
25.6v, 1.00a (low beam), 1.80 amps (high beam)
Additional Specifications:
Operating temperature range: -40˚C to 50˚C
Overvoltage protection to 600v, w/constant output
Mechanical aim
Recommended Accessories:
96630 H4 to H13 adapter
Click to see larger image
When properly mounted, the lamp is designed to conform to the requirements listed in the Department of Transportation (DOT), FMVSS-108 and Transport Canada (TC), CMVSS-108. Headlamps marked with the DOT symbol signifies the lamps are street legal.
Excellent option for light, medium and heavy-duty trucks, off-road vehicles, classic cars, motorcycles and more.
Metalized reflector optics provide a lighting experience that smooth and clean across the driving surface
Provides a brighter, crisper and whiter light output, closer to the color temperature of daylight, dramatically improving light projection distance and overall visibility
Durability and dependability of LED lighting provides a solid-state, bulb-free headlamp design that impervious to damage from shock and vibration
Military grade, die-cast aluminum housing and non-yellowing, polycarbonate lens offer optimum protection against damage from impact, roadside debris and other hazards
Electronics are sealed in epoxy to resist from damage caused by corrosion or moisture
Advanced circuitry protects against voltage spikes up to 600v
Drop-in replacement for #6052, 6053, H6054, and HP6054 headlamp designs.
Military grade, die-cast aluminum housing and non-yellowing, polycarbonate lens offer optimum protection against damage from impact, roadside debris and other hazards
I was digging that part. And the variable voltage is a real plus. 9 volt to 33 volts They are a bit pricey shop around a bit. I like them and think they are worth it. More useful then a lift kit or big tires for me. And less money and work to install. They just POP with that black looking lense. Everyone has a lift kit with big tires. WOW. I am too old for the height and rough ride. I just need a little more light on the road. And these are nice to on coming traffic drivers. Unlike the HID's I had in the past. I got more hi beams with them HID's then I ever did even with the Halogen driving lights on. Remember I am free to say that. I am an American. Please don't take offense. But from a safety standpoint the LED's are money well spent.
Very good question Chuck.
The adapter is part of the LED head lamp. Just remove your sealed beams and replace them with the LED's. Use the dielectric grease provided with the lights and there is enough to go around and do all your exterior light connections. And the glow plug spades. Don't waste it. Use it why not you paid for it. After the new LED's are installed adjust them as needed to achieve the best light projection and keep them in correct DOT adjustment. Thank you for your encouragement on my long drawn out projects. You gotta love it or just quit and scrap everything.
Adjust as needed to get the proper projection of light.
I began the process of clean, paint and install. i have a long way to go but make a little progress everyday after a 10 hour day at my regular job. This is my irregular job rebuilding CUCV's. The mule had 2 right mirror bases on it the whole time I had it and I never took notice. That error has been corrected.
The door weather stripes were a bit brittle. No saving them.Last GM left door weather strip I have in my stock. I will end the storage today. It has been in storage since 10/2002. The left door has the window and weather strip all installed and now onto the right side next. My door panel trick. i clean them real well and then. I soak them down with Armor All and let them sit all night. In the AM I hose them down with more Armor All. It really soaks into the plastic and keeps it looking semi good for a couple years. I have better luck this way than any painting I ever done. It always seem to come off with use. This way it is just the original plastic that wears more and more and it is colored thru and thru and worn looking so I have the correct patina I am looking for. I had to replace the mirror glass in the right mirror. It was scratched from and ice scraper and had an annoying black tint to it that was hard to see out of. Started on the right side mirror installation and then stopped because I must put the wing vent in first. It makes it easier without the brace from the inner door to the outer door skin. Thank you for looking. I am moving right along. I am undecided on wheel color if I should let them flat black or do the sand tan color to the wheels and hubs. More later.
This is the original door panel from the Mule. My method of deep cleaning them and soaking them with Armor All works every time. Even if they have a bit of an ashy area they still look just as good as they have to on an old truck like this. I am not planning on going to shows or being the feature truck of the month at the Barret Jackson auction. I am just doing extensive preventive maintenance so that I can get many more years of use out of this truck. Not as a daily driver just as a big boys toy. If I see something wrong I fix it. Just that simple. If it ain't broke don't fix it. I am I not reinventing the vehicle just maintaining it. I dug around for some good screws to hold the arm rest fast and wanted something in stainless. I found these nice torx 20 head screws. they were nice and held the arm rest well to the door. Always remember to put this screw in under the wing vent it will give the door a lot of strength and support at the mirror area and pulls the inner and out door skin together for added strength. Right mirror and done for the night. Thank you for looking. I hope that is this is helpful to you or just one person.
I use Polytrol for all plastic parts, it goes also deep in the material. Your door panels looks awesome. Sorry, let me say the whole work to this point looks great!
Time to pull up the big boy pants and get to work. I bought these from Duluth Trading Company. A must for all Camouflage lovers. I bought several I like them that much. Moving along again. Back end complete except left tail lamp. More parts painting and a metamorphosis took place. Thank you for looking. I was spraying under coating and wanted to protect the upper body. This project is moving right along. I trashed a cheap LMC Chinese right door channel run. I can not believe they pass that stuff off as fitting properly. Very disappointed with the quality of that part. About 5 tries and into the trash with that piece.