CUCV IP Pump Advice and Suggestions

[stationjj]

Hello,

I suspect my IP is dying or dead. Been having a nagging issue of lose of power. I replaced electric lift pump and inline filter, and replaced spin on filter. Fuel looks clean nothing odd. Recently I can't get any fuel coming from injectors. Which leads me to IP Pump going bad. That's a quick background.

I have been doing research concerning a rebuild IP. Below is what I think I know from my research. I know these question are basic. I ask because I am getting conflicting info concerning the Jcode IP as being different? Can you please verify?

The IP for the CUCV is your basic 6.2 IP nothing Special with regard to the J code for Military?

Most any reputable diesel injection shop should be able to rebuild IP?

A 6.2 IP from HUMVEE won't work because of different pressure issues?

Not all IP rebuilds are the same? What should I look for?


Thank You,

stationjj

 

[Chaski]

Honestly the best thing to start with the pump you have. Most CUCV's are low mileage, and that is good thing. There are a lot of different pumps out there, and the differences are the max fuel rate and advance curve. There is a steel piston that controls injection timing. It moves back and forth in the pump housing and wears the housing out. Shops ream the advance bore oversize then use a larger advance piston. It is almost always better to use your own low mileage pump and have it rebuilt since it will not require reaming out to the largest piston available, or be so worn that it requires a sleeve.

Call around and find a shop that is an authorised Stanadyne repair center. I have had bad luck with a good pump shop using mystery rebuild seals and having them fail within a year.

Have them give you a quote. Expect it to be $250-450 without a new head and rotor depending on what may or may not need to be replaced.

Also might be worth pulling the top on the pump and checking out the solenoid yourself and looking in with a flashlight to see if there are any bits floating around from a failed governor weight retainer.

 

[AECS]

I am in need of a IP myself. I know my gov retainer is on the way out, as I have had to clean out the return check valve at least 15 times now. I am in Memphis and need a good shop...

 

[dkozma]

Any comments on Accurate Diesel? Going to send the pump out for rebuild.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

To the OP are you 100% sure its not sucking air from somewhere? My stock filter base started sucking air and I had every issue of a failing pump. I know you said it had a spin on filter. Are all the lines and fittings in good shape?
Also is the tank sock clean? My sock plugged up and I was certain that the IP had took a dump.
I'm just trying to help. I checked and replaced the cheaper parts and that fixed my issues but that was my case.

Also I saw this shop http://www.jhdiesel.com/sty.htm
Also I saw this place http://dieselpowerllc.com/contact.php

Hope this helps some

 

[stationjj]

Thanks everyone for your help.

I got local diesel shop having a look at it for a 2nd opinion. If it's the IP I will have them replace it. Not in a position to do it myself.

CUCVLover; I haven't replaced the sock yet. I did order a replacement tank and receiver unit. One of those jobs I have been putting off.

Thanks,

stationjj

 

[the skull]

I had mine rebuilt this summer by a diesel tech I used to work with.
He put a Stanadyne kit in it. My flex ring was totaled, and those 2 pieces
rode together so long it almost chewed the buttons off the rear weight
retainer. He put in a solid piece, 1 less thing to go wrong. That is a
Stanadyne part also.

 

[rsh4364]

If you have an electric lift pump and spin on filter you really should have a fuel pressure gauge.Really comes in handy when trouble shooting fuel delivery.And easy to do.

 

[cucvrus]

If you go thru the trouble and expense to replace the injection pump and fuel sock be sure to replace the lift pump and fuel filter. I just did a pump yesterday. Total cost was $21.20 stock lift pump and the stock filter was $17.99 at Autozone. When you have the pump off and the tank out thoroughly check from front to back all the metal fuel lines and replace any of them that are rusty or appear to be rusty. Take special close attention to where they are clamped to the frame. Many times they are rusty under the clamp and are just waiting for the first opportunity to leak with out a moments notice. Usually when it is the coldest day of the year and you are the furthest from home with your family and have nice clothing on. It is an easy fix while you have all the parts removed and the fuel tank out. Get an old pair of clothing do the good while wearing them clothing and then discard the clothing after the job is done. Diesel fuel is worse then anything to get into the laundry. The wife and kids will thank you for it.

 

[CUCVLOVER]

One thing I did when I replaced my tank (m100 was I used a wire wheel to clean everything then I used a few cans of rustolum rubberized under coating. I painted both sides the skid plate, the tank with about 3 coats, and also the frame where the tank straps mount. In your case you could coat the underside of the floor while the tank is out.