cucv lift kits

[rnd-motorsports]

Cucvfreek Again NOBODY is saying dropping the transfer will do anything for the lenght of shaft just the bind or angle of the shaft!! READ, said he will or should get new shaft but lower the case to help with cv angle

 

[Cucvnut]

your missing my point. if you get a longer drive shaft you will have less of a bind or angle on the shaft if you get the right cv

 

[wilsonmotors]

with all of the 4in kits ive done it is a must to lower the t-case to keep the right d-shaft angle i know this other wise u will break u joints,pinions, and trans output shafts just as u must turn up ur pinion angle to relive the bind and get the 4 degrees of angle so the t-case needs to b dropped so when the suspension works it wont go to much out of angle and bind up i was not shure if when things start flexing on a 6 in if the d-shaft would pull out or pull its self apart as the front might do if it gets to much strech when im mudding/rock crawling.

 

[mowerman]

lift kit dilema

wow! lots of ideas, however i too much opinion is probably confusing the point. 1st lowering the t case will make the front drive shaft axle worse, and the rear drive shaft angle better. 2nd u joints were designed to run on two inputs or outputs on the same axis at different hieghts or elevations. 3rd double cardan joints were employed where different axis or different angles between the two inputs or outputs occured. 4th many lift kits do use t case lowering to accomplish the lift. 5th a longer drivshaft does nothing to correct the angle of any input or output shaft. 6th chevy has been using the double cardan joint for years with great success, and the t case lowering method will not cause any difficulty with this joint.
7th there will be a difference with personal experience especially between m1009 vehicles and all other cucv vehicles, as the m1009 has a shorter rear driveshaft where as the angle of the rear shaft will be much different than that of the other cucv's such as m1008,m1028 etc. 8th depending on the method of lift the rear angles vill vary greatly. an ord shackle kit will eliminate the factory axle shim, as it points the pinion up towards the t case, as it only lifts via the rear of the spring. a standard lift with block or new spring will keep the drive shaft angle or pinion angle similar to stock. 9th depending upon what he wants to do with it: ie just wants a tall truck for a d.d. with some min or off pave driving may not require any t case mods, while a desire for extreme mudding or rock crawling will require a completely different line of thinking. 10th the t case can be dropped quite a bit, but remember you need not only to be concerned with firewall clearance, but also fan blade to radiator clearance (and oil cooler lines), as well as too much angle will destroy motor mounts.
just my 2 cents, but reallyn the guy was looking for good info in which we all have, pride aside, lets all ask the right questions first!

 

[12vctd]

If your mudding and rock crawling you might just want to do a little research like DOK pointed out. Theres alot of great lifts that can be had for a steal if your good at sorcing parts. I loved my 52 in spring swap, and my 63's in the rear. I never dropped my t-case, but I did cut my perches on the rear and replaced my C's on the front (I turned my pinion angle when I did this). Theres a million diff lift combos out there, you just need to let us know what your true use of the truck will be.

 

[Lawrence of Arabia]

Lift Supplier

BDS Suspension. Put one on mine and love it.

 

[wilsonmotors]

ok main use of the tuck will b a daily driver with going mudding and trail rideing and some rock crawling in the white rock creeks around here on the weekend but mainly a dd for most just dont want to get out on the rocks and mudd on the weekend and the d-shaft not be long enough for the flex and break something

 

[mowerman]

as offered by others, ilkike the ord stuff on my truck (m102. i added both the drop pitman arm and a riser on the knuckle (6" lift). i lowered my t case with the factory spacers, and i have the stock rear d.s. you should not have any issue with the front d. s. at all. mark youre rear shaft with tape or marker where it slides into the t case, and after the lift install recheck it. if using the ord shackles i bet you wont see much more than 1/4- 3/8 of an inch difference.
i am curious if you are planning on wheeling and arfe doing a 6"lift, are you planning on a gear swap? bigger tires on your 1009 will really change your final drive ratio. i put 3.73 gears in my 1028 with the stock tires, it was great. i added 33 inch tires, not bad. added a 6" lift and 37's, really bad. went back to 4.56's.

 

[12vctd]

well I have a diff mindset than most, I would go lowest lift as possible with the tire you want, I would look for good flex, lots of droop and a very stable suspension. That being said for 35's I would go 4 inch with some trimming. I would do a 52 inch spring swap on the front and probably a ORD or another kit 4 inch shackle reversal on the rear or take your 52's off the rear and source some 63's or ford 57's for the rear. extend my brake lines, possible zero rate for the rear and front with a 1 inch offset so it would really be almost 5 inches. I would use square tubing for the rear spring perches that way I could extend them to help with rear axle wrap, as well as help with pinion angle. I would atleast swap a 14bolt rear with disk brakes but most likely 60/14 bolt combo(would hate to break my DD on the trail and upgrading the stock axles to hold to my personal driving style is more costly). But this list would go on and on, I was basically saying what I did to my k-5 that i did DD, I also did more crawling than anything but that was in TEN/KY as well as other places so it was a diff use. For a mainly DD I think any of the good suspension providers will hook you up with a quality kit. I like the BDS kit, 6 inches is alittle tall for my idea for 35's but gives you room for bigger tires later. Good steering correction, and you wil need to extend your driveshafts if your gonna flex it hard as you will pull it apart at the slip joint, but should be fun either way. just my .02 cents and before anyone chimes in saying im wrong this is simply the opinion of one person, and I have installed tons of lifts as well as built over 35 tube chassis's turn key rigs, so I might know just alittle. But I wheel diff than most and have my own way i like my cat skinned. And I never claim to be a expert or a engineer.

 

[chevyzach]

I have an 87 cucv but its a 1 1/4 ton where can i get a lift kit for that.

 

[Mainsail]

No offense, but before you spend the money on a lift kit it might be a good idea to invest in an English 101 class at a college. Capitalization, punctuation, and spelling are important; especially the spelling because misspelled words don't show up when someone does a search. Again, I don't mean to sound harsh but foreigners are writing better posts than those.

 

[DriverSideImpact1008]

ORD (Off Road Design) is a great place from what everyone has said. You don't need to worry much about the 5/4 ton rating. It's rated 5/4 ton because they added a couple extra leaves in the rear spring packs, otherwise it's nothing special when compared to a K30.

 

[Bummy]

Wow every one is getting pretty piratey over here lol yeah I own a com shelter cut-v you know the ones with even more overloads and I was wondering what I had to do to my front end to fit 9x36x16r tires under her.

 

[bajaman]

Yes you will need not only longer drive shafts. Personally I think 6 in is to high for a M09, with 35s. I'm thinking in 4" for my M08 and 37s. But still researching. Does anyone of you guys can come by about this combination? Which kit should I use, I will install my self to save some money so I can get something good, I'm a Baja tripper and like to go where no man has gone before, kind of. Thank you for reading this long long reply. Any help is great appreciated.

 

[Jake59]

Hello all,

Still new and discovering lots of things about my 1985 M1009.
Can anyone tell me what the maximum allowed drive shaft angles are to avoid unnecessary strain or damage to any of the driveline components?
How can I lower, if necessary my Transfer Case using the original spacers?
Are you talking about the spacers 343179 ? Do I relocate these between the frame and the transfer case support bracket thus to lower the transfer case by as much as the spacer height is?
Or am I miss understanding it all?

Thanks,
Jake

 

[bajaman]

Ordered a lift kit from rough country for a 3/4 c30, to install in a cucv m1028, it didn't fit. It fits the blazer not the Dana 60 either the leafs springs on the back end. Pitman arm is also different.
It works good in the m1009, 4 inch from rough country. Also able to install 37s with it. Now I have to start over with the truck, it's ok, had to do it anyway. Go 4" drop the transfer like you said and you'll be fine.

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[Jake59]

Hi Bajaman,

Your conversion reads very interesting, but at this point I am not yet familiar enough with the possibilities, do's and don't's when it comes to lift kits, larger wheels etc...

If I read your message correctly, the 4" lift kit you installed onto your M1009 and which fit like a glove and you got from Rough Country is that the 4[FONT=&quot]IN GM SUSPENSION LIFT SYSTEM (52IN REAR SPRINGS) ([/FONT]https://www.roughcountry.com/gm-suspension-lift-kit-250-20.html) ?

Your experience and understanding are most helpfull to me as a newbee M1009 owner.
Much appreciated,

Jake
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[Matt5]

lol 37's with a 4 inch... I hope you have no plans to use articulation... as 6 inch with 36's hits on a 08.

Everything else donno... a blazer has very weak axles to be putting a lift and large tires on for anything more than going down the road.

 

[bajaman]

No 37s on the blazer, did it to a m1028 it works really good to me, need to upgrade the brakes but that's ok.

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[richingalveston]

On my 1009 I have 39 tall 11 wide Michelin xzl tires with ord shackle flip (stock rear springs) and 1 inch zero rates for a total of 5 inches of lift. my t-case is ord magnum205 clocked up 1 inch not down. I had to clearance my u-joints slightly (will get tom woods high angle joints eventually).
I am certain that I have maxed out the stock CV and U-joints (front and back). when you finish yours put it on jacks so that the tires hang in the air and spin them, you will feel the u-joints bind if you went to far. They can take a small bit of grinding to get a little more out of them but not much.
My fenders have been modified to give approx. 4 more inches to the rear of the front tires. I have no rub under heavy off road.

I highly recommend the ORD products. The shackle flip is the best thing for the rear pinion angle. The tuff country springs have a great ride. With any lift, each change causes another change. if you go 4inches of lift then consider the cross over steering.

I have been building my truck for 6+ years. It sits for long periods when my work gets busy. I have not skimped on any part of my build. I am now back to work on my 6.5 turbo and should have it back in the truck in a few weeks. I travel through Innis often and may look you up when I get it back on the road.

Build your lift for how you plan to use it. if doing serious off road then you need a lot of things. If it is a grocery getting DD then you can do a simple lift with drop pitman.