• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

CUCV M1008 - RunAway Starter

69
1
6
Location
Hurst Texas
I went to start my M1008 and the starter hung and would not stop. I clicked the key on and off, and it just kept going! Eventually I turned the key off and it actually stopped/killed the truck. There was a real nice smell afterwards that I attributed to the starter. I pulled both the negative leads on the batteries and replaced the starter (batter tested as bad at part store). As soon as I touched the negative terminal to the battery post, there were some sparks, and the truck started turning over as if trying to start (with no key in the ignition). I removed the terminal and stopped. I had my friend slowly charge the battery's overnight. (I confirmed they read 12.6 volts.)

The next day I replaced the ignition switch (on the column). I took the negative and positive leads and posts and cleaned them with a wire brush. I then hooked the starter back up then went to place the negative terminal to the 1st battery (not the terminal that runs to the adjacent batter) and it gave a click like it was trying to engage the starter. It did not turn over just click. I put the second negative terminal on and it sparked... within seconds smoke started appearing what I think is the Engine WRG Harness Block right next to the power steering/master brake cylinder. I disconnected the terminal and got a real pretty arc that blew off about 1/4 of the terminal post.

On the starter I took off/replaced, I did not see a purple wire. There was only one wire on the solenoid.

I pulled the wiring diagram off NY Tactical website (http://www.ny-tactical.com/PDF-Files/StartingCircuit.pdf) so I can start tracing things now.

From looking at previous posts it looks like it may be the following:
1) there may be a purple wire that may be loose swinging around around the engine that is trapped some where? (The truck is new to me so I have no experience or history with it)
2) The starter relay is bad?

What else should I be looking at? Also in which manual would one look to diagnose this?

Your help would be sincerely appreciated!

K
 

m38inmaine

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,112
65
48
Location
Maine USA
Your starter relay is stuck, it is located under the dash up under and behind the STEICE diagnostic connector, a rectangular silver box.
 

tripp2727

New member
23
0
1
Location
suwanee GA
starter relay...mine went bad a month ago and did the same thing. part number is ac40 at autozone $9 if that is not the problem its a cheap way to eliminate that link in the chain.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,178
113
Location
NY
Look at TM 9-2320-289-20 The schematics are in the back.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,178
113
Location
NY
I bought a solenoid/relay from NAPA today. I am going to replace the original relay with this(before I have problems). It is a NAPA part #, 7-01860-1 (SME line). It is rated at 200 amps intermittent. It is a small starter solenoid/relay used in lawn-tractor applications. Cost $15.88 I will cut off the original plug and reinstall ring terminals to fit the solenoid's studs. Probably bolt it under the dash near the original relay.
 
Last edited:

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,178
113
Location
NY
Just out of curiosity if my relay sticks. How do I get it to stop before I kill my starter?
You can try to unplug the relay, but it is difficult to get your hands on it without removing the screws that mount it's support plate.

You can do a chinese fire-drill and run out with a 1/2" wrench and loosen and pull your front battery ground connection.(possibly creating a dangerous arc).

You can walk away in disgust, and wish you had paid for comprehensive insurance.
 

motormayhem

Member
609
6
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
If unplugging it will do the trick I think I am ok as mine is unscrewed and tucked up in there. Just grab it and pull. I looked at it tonight and it seems like those wires aren't that big. How much amperage to these have going through them? It seems to be a decent size solenoid for the wires, but I am a novice.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,178
113
Location
NY
Hmm, sounds like a good experiment. When I have time to find my amp clamp, I'll see what I get for load on the Purple wire.
 

m4A1

New member
141
2
0
Location
California
You can replace the relay with a push button switch connecting the switch to the 24v wires and push to engage/release to disengage.
 

motormayhem

Member
609
6
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
You can replace the relay with a push button switch connecting the switch to the 24v wires and push to engage/release to disengage.
It would be cool to replace it with one of those self-returning aircraft safety switches (the ones with the red-cover you have to lift up). I was thinking of doing that on my Model A.
 

Dodgeman1941

New member
128
1
0
Location
W. MI
Ours is just hanging there also. We've gone through 2 of them. First stopped working and the second arced itself togather {stupid move on my part} and the started did what you discribed. I now have it just tucked up in the ste-ice harness for easy access and I keep a new spare in the glove box, just in case.
 

motormayhem

Member
609
6
18
Location
Tucson, AZ
If unplugging it will do the trick I think I am ok as mine is unscrewed and tucked up in there. Just grab it and pull. I looked at it tonight and it seems like those wires aren't that big. How much amperage to these have going through them? It seems to be a decent size solenoid for the wires, but I am a novice.
Haha I forgot I posted this. Well I did end up having to yank that relay as the starter did stick.


All better now (under the cannon plug):
 

Attachments

Top