CUCV M1008 wont start

[CamoCUCV]

Previous owner said it would start and idle but when you give it gas it would die. He was suspect of the tank having dirt or trash in it and when he pulled the tank he found lots of sand and uncovered pin holes. He had health issues and never resumed work on the truck. It set for about a year. Now its mine, Ive been reading post for weeks and trying everything I can. So I have a new tank and sending unit, I'm using an electric pump and a diesel screw on fuel filter. Previous owner has changed out glow plug relay to push button and solenoid. Ive ohmed glow plugs they are all 1.4 to 1.6. I'm getting 26VDC to all the glow plugs when I have someone push button. Ive tried holding glow plug button for two minutes and three minutes before cranking. I put two new 1000 CCA batteries with good clean connections. I cracked all the injectors and cranked it four times for about 10 seconds at least until they all drip, then closed them back. I'm hearing the click on the IP when I pull the wire off. Ive checked the check valve on top of the IP for the return. I feel like its cranking a little slow I'm afraid that its sat too long and its rusted up? It had oil in it when I got it and it was full but I've changed it anyway. I wanted to pull the glow plugs and turn it over to see if I'm getting a fuel mist out of each cylinder but every freaking glow plug is swollen and wont come out; they screw out but wont come out. But they ohm good? So should I go through all the trouble to pull and replace 8 swollen plugs just to see if I'm getting proper fuel? is there another way? Also is there a good way to free up a engine that may be a little tight from sitting? Also Ive made sure there are no restrictions in the return line by blowing into the line off the top of the IP. I'm concerned IP issue? or just not cranking fast enough or clogged injectors? I've tried a little either while cranking but no success. Need direction some help.

 

[Barrman]

Swollen glow plugs normally don't work. Getting them out needs to be done sooner or later. Might as well do it now and put in some 60g's. When you do, put power to them no more than 10 seconds at a time.

When you you do get it started. If it idles fine but dies as son as you give it throttle then let off. The injection pump is probably bad. Might want to start saving up for one of those too.

 

[CamoCUCV]

ok that's good to know. I'm dreading this glow plug job. Are all glow plug removal tools about the same or is there one that works better for the 6.2

 

[Gripy]

glow plugs should be getting no more than 12v each. As long and you are getting fuel the truck should start. Has the fuel filter been replaced?

 

[TGP (IL)]

Plugs are junk and need to be changed.
If your reading 24+ volts at the plugs there all bad.
When all 8 are working you will see 12V at the plug.
As they burn out voltage will rise and start burning out the
Remaining plugs quicker.
I did the resister bypass and Dog Head mod. for the starter years ago.

Never used the removal tool can't help there.
Good Luck
Tom

 

[reaper556]

I used to have a M1008 that sat 4 years before I bought it. I pumped the tank out put fresh fuel and a new fuel filter on it and it primed and cranked within 45 seconds or so of cranking without me needing to crack the fuel lines.

I definitely think you have something else wrong possibly the IP

 

[CamoCUCV]

response to TGP
No one seams to be concerned about it sitting a year untouched. Now im questioning myself I remember checking the glow plugs for power and they all read the same but now thinking it might have been 12 or 13 not 24 so I will check again. But I'm confused at what your saying is it that they should only get 12 applied or 24 is applied but the resistance causes a voltage drop to 12? . I was told by the previous owner that everything under the hood is 24VDC
And yes new fuel filter. Thanks for the help so far. Looks like ill be replacing the glow plugs with G60's ASAP and giving that a try.

 

[porkysplace]

CamoCUCV
You need to take some time and read through these threads so you understand how things work on a CUCV .
[h=1]CUCV Helpful Threads[/h]

 

[TGP (IL)]

response to TGP
No one seams to be concerned about it sitting a year untouched. Now im questioning myself I remember checking the glow plugs for power and they all read the same but now thinking it might have been 12 or 13 not 24 so I will check again. But I'm confused at what your saying is it that they should only get 12 applied or 24 is applied but the resistance causes a voltage drop to 12? . I was told by the previous owner that everything under the hood is 24VDC
And yes new fuel filter. Thanks for the help so far. Looks like ill be replacing the glow plugs with G60's ASAP and giving that a try.

Do read the link Porky supplied.

And No everything under the hood is not 24V
The truck is 12v
The starting ,slave connection, and glow plugs operate on 24Volt.
The glow plugs are 12v. They get that through the resistor supplied by 24Volts.
So when all are operating the resistance is 12

Again read Porky's link and all the sticky's at the top of the CUCV forum.
You need to understand the electrical system before you go any farther.
The IP is 12Volt.

On a side note the G60 glow plugs IMO, are the best, but the blade terminal is wider
Than the Military plugs.
You will have to change wire ends or carefully grind a little off the tang for fitment.

If you have a good filter and the lift pump pressure checks out and your getting
fuel to the IP then most likely
You have an Injection pump issue.

Read Read Read
Tom

 

[Barrman]

Sitting for a month, year or more is not an issue with these mechanical injected engines. As long as the IP had fuel when it was turned off and has fuel to it when it is started again. All should be good. Pulling the glow plugs to let it spin and get oil circulating with the pink wire unplugged is a good idea though.

The swollen glow plugs are a pain. Yes, most of the pullers out there will work. I have had good luck with a needle nose vise grip holding the plug and a hook tipped slide hammer pulling on the vise grip. It works for me and cost less. #5 and #7 are going to be pain no matter what tool or method you use.

 

[CamoCUCV]

Thanks for the link, I will defiantly read read and read some more. I'm a very technical kind of guy I need to understand the sequence of operation and specs, nothing can stop me then. lol
I will get her started.

 

[CamoCUCV]

Ok Im defiantly getting 24 to all the glow plugs. I'm going to change them all (G60's) and abandon the resistor for a 12V setup. Guess I get them at the local NAPA? Then maybe she will start. I have a feeling IP needs work. But I'll cross that bridge when I get there. I haven't read a whole lot about the IP but just inquiring is having it rebuilt just as good as a new one? Are the new one's just rebuilt cores? I will probably try Cleaning / Servicing it first if I can find the procedure.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

Ok Im defiantly getting 24 to all the glow plugs. I'm going to change them all (G60's) and abandon the resistor for a 12V setup. Guess I get them at the local NAPA?

Yes, NAPA or online. They aren't hard to find.


Two reasons I can think of for getting 24v at the plug:

1. They are all burned out.
2. The previous owner bypassed the resistor and connected them to 24v.

Given the wrong info he told you about the truck's electrical system, #2 wouldn't be at all surprising.

On the other hand,

Ive ohmed glow plugs they are all 1.4 to 1.6. I'm getting 26VDC to all the glow plugs when I have someone push button. Ive tried holding glow plug button for two minutes and three minutes before cranking.

Holding the GPs that long is probably enough to burn them out. It's possible that you have two problems - a fuel problem keeping it from starting, and a bunch of burned out GPs from holding them too long.

Doing the bypass isn't a bad idea, but don't assume that will solve everything.

 

[Tinstar]

If you leave the system in its stock form or convert it back if changed, you will still be able to use the TM's and receive a lot of help on this site.

If converted to 12v, while many have done it with success, your kinda on your own so to speak.
Read about and do the doghead relay! Cheap insurance.

I also used the vice-grip GP removal method. Worked like a champ for the two nasty ones I had.
Replaced with 60G's They are even available on Amazon.

My M1008A1 sat for quite a few years. Runs like a champ and is driven everyday. Don't worry about sitting a year.
Ive read about one that sat 10 years and fired right up after some maint.
Take your time. Tackle one job at a time and use the best parts you can afford.

It will pay off in the long run.

Good luck

 

[CamoCUCV]

My resistor is shot it only reads .1 OHM. No resistance. I would like to keep it in play for an even draw on the batteries, given that replacing it's not a ridiculous Cost. Previous owner did install a push button to by pass the OEM key operated configuration. And I think I will keep that. I don't really need the afterglow feature given that I live in Florida. For that matter I probably don't even need the glow plugs in the summer? I think I will also buy the glow plug extractor tool for the GM 6.2 given that I don't own a pair of needle nose vise grips and a hook slide hammer anymore.

 

[MarcusOReallyus]

That's odd. The usual failure is that a resistor opens - infinite resistance. I'd be careful to make sure you are getting an accurate measurement before you spend the money on a replacement.

On the other hand, a shorted resistor bank will certainly give you 24v at the plugs.

 

[CamoCUCV]

I bought the extraction tool and had 6 out in no time 7th one not so slick. It separated and the socket part of the glow plug pulled out leaving the stem in. But now if I let it go it will fall down into the block. I'm guessing Ill push it in and remove the injector to get this one out? I'm concerned? is this the way I should do it?

 

[reaper556]

I bought the extraction tool and had 6 out in no time 7th one not so slick. It separated and the socket part of the glow plug pulled out leaving the stem in. But now if I let it go it will fall down into the block. I'm guessing Ill push it in and remove the injector to get this one out? I'm concerned? is this the way I should do it?

Yep only way to do it now. Get the OTC socket to remove the nozzle,it's around $50 bucks

 

[bryfor]

If you get a pair of baby vice grips a coupla different screwdrivers and some patience just try spinning them as straight as possible. They seem like theyre not moving but be persistant and firm but gentle! Most will come out...might take 20 min per and a rest or three on the ole arm but beats taking injectors out. Work them left and right with reasonable pressure and try to maintain a straight line pull. Good luck!

 

[bryfor]

Oops...and a little lubricant of your choice def helps removal