CUCV (M1009) Headlight Issue

[ssdvc]

OK, fired up the M1009 this morning and was about to leave for work (0515 and dark outside). I got out of the truck to take my flag down (very heavy winds) and I looked back at my truck and noticed the passenger side headlight was very dim. Now I had just replaced BOTH headlights a few months ago (used the Sylvania Silverstar headlights) because one burned out and I wanted to put a matched set in. That was because, before that, I had replaced one of them a few weeks earlier because it was burnt out. And then two weeks ago I had to replace the driver's side once again. That light basically "blew up" on my way to work one morning. I was driving down the road and saw a bright flash in front of me, but I couldn't tell where it came from. I thought it was a speed camera, but it turned out to be my headlight saying goodbye in spectacular fashion.

Anyway, after seeing the passenger side dim headlight this morning I opened the hood, unplugged the driver's side headlight (yeah, I know it doesn't make sense) and plugged it back in. That seemed to fix the dim passenger side light and now both lights are at full power. What do you think the problem could be? I checked the wiring and all seemed to be OK, but I know something is not.

Also, where can I find a NEW headlight switch. Mine is sticking and it is sometimes hard to shut off.

Thanks !

 

[Barrman]

1985 k5 blazer head light switch. Or, pretty much any GM vehicle of that era.

The silverstar star lights don't like more than 14 volts. Check your alternators.

Also, depending on where you bought them. They might have a year free replacement warranty. O'Reilly's told me that when I blew both of mine up one night with a stuck voltage regulator. I was complaining about having to buy new ones just a month after putting the blown ones in. The manager told me they have a factory warranty and replaced them free. It is worth trying.

 

[KLRBILLY]

I would check the ground for the headlights.

I would also buy the headlight wiring harness from LMC which will give you a separate relay for each headlight. It will end up being cheaper than new headlights. I think the harness is $30.
Just food for thought. The stock wiring for the headlights is a known weak point.


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[cucvrus]

Definite grounding problem. Another fix is LED headlamps. That takes a huge load off the light circuit. I just converted all the plow trucks to LED headlamps for the snow plows. It made the entire lighting system brighter and with less amperage use. I have all my personal CUCV's fitted with Truck lite LED head lamps. Been on my 2nd year no problems.I added the KC daylighters on a separate circuit on my Crown of Thorns M1009. They are 1.3 million candle power HID. Very bright.

 

[rsh4364]

I am also a big fan of the rigid 55003 headlights, the lmc 36-3580 harness and if you are still 12/24v look at the trucklite 24v series lights. 07392 floods, 07382 driving and 07397 spots, great lights on the cheap.

 

[NovacaineFix]

Had the same problem, may be a grounding issue, but more likely that of the common fuse box issue combined with your "sticky" headlight switch.

The headlight switch is available at any auto store as it is the same as the civi version.
Take a look at your fuse box at the 30 amp fuse above LPS+GPFU+A/C below the stoplight fuse (10 amp) also circled in pic. Is it melted around the fuse? Most likely it is.

If so and even if it is not melted, it wouldn't hurt to do the headlight relay conversion. This will lighten the electrical load on that already overloaded circuit which also controls your headlights.

Mine went and my headlights would flash on and off and until they would not come on again. they were also different brightness levels from one headlight to the other, my grounds were fine, but check yours to be safe.
There may also be some corrosion within the fuse box halves from the circuit arcing, don't ask how I know.

Isn't hard to do but when doing it, make sure Both batteries are disconnected, or you will see some sparkage.



There are some threads on the full step-by-step conversion and you can buy the kit from LMC or get them yourself locally.

Basically, you are transferring the load from the headlight circuit to a pair of relays that are run off a fused line from one of the batteries. Here is a quick shot of mine, not prettied up but working fine.


My headlights and some other circuits are now fed from a fused line from the battery terminal block to a sub panel. And yes I increased the size of the wire that fed the terminal block, but no pic, sorry.


BTW, the headlights on a CUCV are 12V, not 24. There are not many things on a CUCV that are 24V except the starter and the feed to the glow plug relay and resistor bank and of course the terminal blocks, depending on where you tap to them. Remember, these are not your typical 24V MV, they are a 12V truck that produces 24V for certain circuits, that's it.

 

[OD green K5]

I just ordered the headlight harness from Amazon for half what LMC Truck charges.

I'm looking at getting the GE Nighthawk LED headlamps. But at $186 each it might be awhile.

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[Ilikemtb999]

They don't seem worth the money to me. I actually think once the headlights are ran with the new harness that they work quite well. Plus you don't have to worry about icing over (though maybe they won't be such an issue because they're vertical).

 

[rsh4364]

My old eyes needed more light,first I added the lmc HD harness, it helped and gave me peice of mind that I wasn't going to smoke fuses or burn up wires. Then I upgraded to Hella 003427291 and those were much better than the sealed beams. Then I tried the rigid /trucklite 55003 lights and love them. Then I added a pair of trucklite 07392 floodlights mounted lower in the grill guard and it's like driving in the daylight. And no one flashes their brights at me.

 

[iacucv]

OP, consider the replacement headlight kits that convert your sealed beam to a 9006 halogen bulb. I am forgetting what brand it was I put in but it was top tier, possibly lightforce. Anyway my headlights were terrible. I put in the LMC harness and the headlights ($60) with some middle of the road bulbs ($20). I am thrilled with the results, it blows my daily driver with $200 nightlux led bulbs out of the water. For about $100 probably the best thing I've done to my 1009 other than the basic bullet proofing things these things need due to their particular gremlins.

ETA - went back and found the info for the lights I used. They are Vision-X, part no 4004023 . Wish I would've put them in my 1008!

 

[cucvrus]

They don't seem worth the money to me. I actually think once the headlights are ran with the new harness that they work quite well. Plus you don't have to worry about icing over (though maybe they won't be such an issue because they're vertical).

I have run the Trucklite LED's thru 2 winters and a major 40" snow storm and had no icing over issues to date. I doubt that icing over would be an issue in 99.9% of all the weather I have dealt with. I had Halogens encased in ice and operating very few times. And as far a being worth the money. Until you have them they may seem a bit pricey. but having them in your old CUCV makes it look like you are driving a totally different vehicle at night. They are easy on the opposing traffic and are very low on amperage draw. like I stated before. I do NOT have any head lamp wiring updates. I run what it has and have no issues. The loose connection fixed at the fuse box seems to be the cure for all the headlamp circuit ills. I guess we all have options and opinions. I could redesign the entire truck if I had the time and desire. it works and needs minor maintenance. And that is what I am looking for. Meanwhile the salt is still eating away at the M1028 spreader truck. I think I just heard a piece fall off of it. LED's are good and worth the $$ IMHO.

 

[WARWAG]

A very simple answer may just be the connector it self. When I changed my headlights (because they were diminish) on my M1028 I noticed the new lights were not much better. I had good voltage at the terminal but noticed the terminals were not that shine in fact they were brown. I used contact cleaner on them and pushed the terminals on and off a bunch of times. This cleaned all the crud off the terminals and fixed my diminish headlights. The last thing I did was to pull the terminal back off and filled them with Dielectric grease then pushed them back on. No more worries about road salt or any other crud corroding the terminals. You can pick up a can of contact cleaner at home depot or any electrical supply warehouse. The Dielectric grease can be picked up at any automotive store. Make sure you get it in PLASTIC tubes and not the metal tubes.

 

[ssdvc]

I just picked up the headlight switch and will replace today when the temp gets above 10 degrees (hey, I'm old !!). I have the headlight harness, but I have been debating on it's install. I will check the wiring again and the fuse block too. I have seen Rick's LED setup and it is bada**, but a bit pricey for me.

When I got my truck from Rick, one of the things I noticed was how much better the stock headlights were than on my other M1009. I good good coverage on the road when driving at the appropriate speeds. Yeah, I may take a shot and pick up the 9006 conversion and go from there, but the current stock setup is fine.
Oh, that said, I did pick up a set of the Trucklite Floods, so if I need to burn the paint of oncoming cars, I should be good to go