CUCV M1009: Is it 3 OR 4 Outlets for Fuel Tank Sending Unit??


Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Lake Elsinore Ca.
Ok, I'm trying to figure out what I will need

Thanks for the video ADF [thumbzup] [thumbzup]

From what he is saying, or at least from what I understand, my gauge may not be getting any connection to the "signal" wire from the sending unit. As it shows way past full, around the 3 o'clock position just as he states. He stated something about "shorting" the gauge and if it was good, it would go back to empty. I'm not sure what he means by this... my guess is he means grounding the signal wire? Or grounding the "electrical stud" on the back of gauge that the signal wire connects to? If I can test the gauge in this manner, it would at least tell me if the gauge is working.

Also he shows a resistor on his fuel gauge connecting two of the "electrical studs" that connect to the printed circuit board. Is the CUCV fuel gauge supposed to have this resistor?? Because the last time I had the instrument panel apart, I don't remember seeing one. But my memory and recall is not good.

IF I can test the gauge and see that it is Able to work, thereby eliminating it as the cause. Then the next issues could be the signal wire and/or the printed circuit panel for the instrument cluster.

If I pull the instrument panel again, I was considering going ahead and replacing the printed circuit board since it is 40 years old. Eliminate future issues hopefully. And get one while LMC still sells them. From my searching, I am fairly certain that the correct one is LMC part # 38-8036
I'll also get some new retaining clips that connect to the gauge and panel also. I think only the fuel gauge has those clips, so should only need 3.

Was looking at the gauges on LMC also, if I end up needing to replace it. Pretty sure it's # 36-1966

Why is it that the Diesel gauge is the Only one that has "circles" for empty/half/full, instead of just "E - F" ?? Do they think people using diesels can't read??
Would get one of the others that have E to F as they appear to mount the same, but they probably wouldn't read right or something. But hopefully I won't need a gauge to start with.

In any case, I'm going to try to test the gauge first. If I could get it to "read correctly" with the right wires being grounded or not, then that would at least tell me the gauge is working. So guess my next step is to figure out how to ground the signal wire... to bad I already reinstalled the tank.... and I just got my side step and the skid plate re-installed today. If I have to get to the sending unit signal wire, I'll have to pull all that back down again.... ☹


Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Santa Ana, CA
If you do tear into your dash you may want to consider replacing the bulb holders, they aren't very expensive and will eliminate any faulty ones you may have. Also here is a entertaining video about your dash lights.
I haven’t been on for about a month. Look how this Topic has grown. Wow!

You guys are having a good old time with the Fuel Gauge. What a mess huh?

I’m stating the obvious, but if you take your dash apart again, make sure that Big Main Plug clicks back in on Both sides. It can make a huge difference.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Active member
Upstate NY
Been dealing with some gauge issues myself! (Had previously installed civy gauges and re-pinned connector) Gauges would work, then not work, to include fuel gauge. Only a plow truck for the property at the moment so wasn't a big deal....

Had pulled the steering column to replace the wiper switch (PITA) and decided to look into the gauge issues. Turns out the cluster plug had a broken clip and was rotating out of the cluster. Which then was breaking the traces loose from the backing. (Carefully glued traces down)

The plug was used for 73-90 square body's and some Fords. Found allot of used ones with pigtails for sale, but wasn't interested in buying a 30+ year old plastic plug!!!!

Morale of the story: Turns out Ron Francis Wiring sells a new plug.

Got through summit as needed some other stuff. Re-pinning is easy and plug is now secure. Now have an issue with temp gauge and will end up replacing the printed circuit board as mine is pretty beat up....


Well-known member
Tioga, PA
If you do tear into your dash you may want to consider replacing the bulb holders, they aren't very expensive and will eliminate any faulty ones you may have. Also here is a entertaining video about your dash lights.
On this note do you know if they’re 5/8” or 1/2” sockets? Or are both present for different indicators? No big deal if you don’t know, I’ll be able to tell when I pull the cluster back out.849150B7-15BA-4463-8841-47DB098E3261.jpeg
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