CUCV no start

[Highlanderfarm]

Parked my CUCV last summer by the house. Ran fine, always ran well. Went to start it, and despite cranking, no fire. Been working on it as of late, and am perplexed. Put on a new fuel pump (converted to electric) and a spin on filter. Have fuel right up to the injector pump. I hear the solenoid clicking every time.
We cracked the injector lines and no fuel coming out. Pulled the glows to spin faster and cranked and cranked (30 seconds on, 3 minute rest). Have done this a lot, and nothing.
Suggestions from people familiar with this?
After lots of research I am suspecting the injector pump went bad. Any way to test this? How hard are they to replace?

 

[cucvrus]

First question why did you change the fuel system to begin with? It makes it hard to help from afar when we have no idea what kit of hacked up modifications were made to it. Do the glow plugs cycle? Do you have an air lock in the fuel filter? The old stock way is the easy way. But if you want it fixed tow it up here and I can fit it in the schedule sometime around Christmas week. My first thing would be to put a standard diaphragm lift pump on the engine. Check all the hoses and clamps. Just leaking fuel is not a good way to find a leak. Air getting in can make the fuel drop and you will loose prime. I have good things planned in my garage for the next year. 2021 is going to be a good production year at my shop. I am going to make it my goal. Progress on a major CUCV project. Coming soon to a website near you. Good Luck. The offer stands. I can fix all your ills and return it to the good old reliable CUCV it was built and designed for.

 

[Highlanderfarm]

Mechanical pump was giving weak fuel flow, and I had a problem with the factory filter leaking (brick), even after replacing it. Went with an electric and a spin on filter assembly with a priming pump. Have great fuel flow and sufficient pressure right up to the injector pump. All new hoses with quality clamps , no air leaks. Nothing coming out of the IP.
Looking to replace that now.

 

[Tinstar]

A new factory style fuel pump would have been a lot easier to change than create yet another possible fail point with the electric one.
Same with fuel filter.
Much easier to troubleshoot.

Plenty of threads on how to permanently fix that leak from the fuel sensor.
I bought the new manufactured mount that has it completely removed.
Original style works perfectly.

Your troubles might be the IP.
Could be a blocked line or vacuum lock or ???
New one definitely won’t hurt but may not be needed.

Like already mentioned, when you start modifying things, it makes it extremely difficult/impossible to help from a distance.

 

[Highlanderfarm]

Understand, but brought two guys from work-diesel techs. We gauged the pressure at the line going to the IP, good. Glows are new GM's (this fall), and have power-on a manual switch, card went bad. Got fuel coming out of return line off of the top of the IP. Zilch coming out of the pump . It didn't work with the oem mechanical, either, prior to swap to electric. Going with new IP. I understand the modifying stuff, but if you know what you are doing it is okay. It has been converted to straight 12 volt, snow plow,etc. Done professionally, I work at a fleet service facility that handles a huge utility company with over 1500 various vehicles, 80% being diesel. Only a few know the older 6.2's though (mainly fords). My brick filter leaked from the little gaskets on the filter when I installed a new one, not from the back or sensors. Poured out. Hard starts in the winter, lots of cranking , even with the block heater and new glows.
Thanks for the insight.