• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

CUCV project - operation SO approval

realm

New member
103
5
0
Location
Memphis/TN
Claim blasphemy, but I'm on a mission to make my cucv into a vehicle my signficant other approves of and my ears can tolerate more.

Everyone's thinking... why'd you buy a cucv then right?
Because I found one that was cheaper and in better shape than all the Civy ones I looked at. Plus I'm not a fan of all the Civy chrome flimsy bumpers, I like ruggedness, but it doesn't mean I want my eardrums blown out... from the truck noise or the SO. :wink:

Her main complaint is the noise and rugged cabin, although she's not a huge fan of the OD paint either.

The truck has no dings, dents, or rust issues, and has a new OD paintjob inside and out.

So here are my plans already underway...

#1 Tinting... 20% going all around.

#2 Undercoating... I got several cans of rubberized undercoating paint that will go underneath frame, springs, axles, and body in several coats. Did this on my old Cherokee and it worked great, never had moisture issues again.

#3 Rustproofing interior... more cans of rubberized paint will go inside on the floorboards in a few more coats, to protect from moisture and the like.

#4 Sound deadening... I got enough for 2 layers of fatmat to cover the whole passenger area. I'm not expecting luxury, but the more layers the less sound. On top of that will go a jute pad from like Lowes which will help some with noise, but is more to protect the fatmat from friction.

#5 Flooring... I have a molded vinyl floor going in the passenger area on top of all that. Did this on an old Bronco and while it took all day to install, it worked out great. The rear area will just get a removeable rubber bedliner as I use it to haul stuff and want to be able to easily sweep and dry it down.

#6 Paint... I think with window tint the OD paint will get SO approval, but if not my last resort is to paint it all black, hopefully with what I guess is black carc or something similar. I think a blacked out cucv would look good (and no, I don't mean the headlights like some ricey truck). I just mean everything green would be black.

Headliner will stay as-is. Not sure yet how I'm going to deal with door and side panel sound deadening as I can' t put rubberized coating and fatmat on it without something to hide them. I'm not aware of anything to cover the side-panels unless there are civilian panels that fit, so they may just have to stay as-is. Besides... it's the drivetrain more than anything that's loud.

Not so great pics attached of her how she currently sits.

Undercoating going on this weekend.
Tint, fatmat, and vinyl floor already on the way and should be in by next weekend.

Flame away if need be, but helpful thoughts welcome. :-D

***UPDATE PG2***-pics of fatmat
 

Attachments

Last edited:

dependable

Well-known member
1,720
188
63
Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
I have tried butyl aluminum sound deadener, took out the seat, brushed floor with detergent and hot water to remove 20 yrs of spilled food , drink ect. Dynamat is the best known of these products, but Raamat is just as good but a lot less $. Have also tried Fatmat brand Ultimat which is also butyl and aluminum, it was OK. I would advise staying away from the asphalt based products as they can smell in warmer weather these include fatmat and b quiet. This can be painted with grizzely liner or similar product, then paint if you want. The sound deadener works, generally lowers the tone, as well as insulating cab . I apply the matt from under the rear window where it is single walled to the firewall insulation mat. Photo is Raamat mostly installed before coating and painting.
 

Attachments

Last edited:

realm

New member
103
5
0
Location
Memphis/TN
Thanks dependeable, that's come good info right there. I didn't think of the asphalt issue while halt, and noticed the rubberized undercoating I'm using has asphault in it, so I'm definitely not going to use that inside the cab. I'll just use some regular paint or something. The stuff I used years ago didn't have that in it but I can't find any now without it.

Hopefully the asphalt in the fatmat won't be too bad, as I'll have insulator pad and then the rubber flooring on top of it. Knock on wood.
 

dependable

Well-known member
1,720
188
63
Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
Regular fatmat is asphalt based but fatmat makes a product called ultimat that is butyl, not asphalt. Raam audio makes Raamat. Which is also butyl and better in my opinoin. Fatmat makes a water based paintable coating I put over the raamat to porvide surface adheasion for paint, it is called Body armor, I think. If left uncoated, will get soft again with moisture. I,m going to try hippo or grizzely liner in the next one I do, but the stuff needs good ventilation to apply, so I will wait for warmer weather. In another dept, get some good door weatherstripping, then water and air can't get into cab, good for SO and floor as well. cost less than 40 bucks from a good chevy restoration place. I use Classic parts, but there are others that are probabley just as good.
 

realm

New member
103
5
0
Location
Memphis/TN
Good deal, the ultimate fatmat is what I got. Good idea on the weatherstripping, I'll add that to my list. Do they not originally come with weatherstripping? Thanks!
 

dependable

Well-known member
1,720
188
63
Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
The door seal wears out over the years and rain and snow leaking in account for most of the rust that starts on the inside of the floor. This is the rubber that is glued to the pinch weld around the door frame on the cab. Costs about $40 including the glue from a good chevy restoration place like Classic or Lmc.
 
Last edited:

zb39

Member
440
0
16
Location
PA
Dynomat is Great for sound deadening. Make sure engine is running well and exhaust is right up to snuff or better...Good Luck.
 

realm

New member
103
5
0
Location
Memphis/TN
***Update:***

Fatmat is 40% done... will finish fully tonight with that but looking for some opinions.

I bought 4 rolls of this stuff, I've done 85% of the front passenger area and am probably 70% through the first roll.

Questions:

A) Should I do the rear too? I was planning on just putting mat to just under the rear passenger seat, and then the rear being strictly cargo and steel with a rubber mat, but I'm having second thoughts since I should have enough. Should I line the back rear floor too with fatmat and then just cover that with my cargo pad?

B) I'm going to take off the upper door panels and do the doors, but what about the lower part? Has anyone ever gotten the lower door panels from like LMC? I would need that to cover it as I don't want any fatmat exposed. Otherwise I'll just do the upper.

C) Can I stick this stuff anywhere else like under the hood or anything?

D) I'd like to do the side panels in the rear and so forth but is there anyway ya'll can think of to cover up the panels so I wouldn't be able to see the fatmat? Otherwise I'm leaving as-is and hope all my floor plans deadens the sound enough.

Will take some pics as I go.
 

wallew

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,520
18
38
Location
San Angelo, Tx USA Planet Earth
Realm,

I am interested in the results of your project. I can only give you my opinion.

A) How often will you use the rear for anything but carry passengers in the rear that could cause it to become so dirty you would want to hose it out? If the answer is mainly carrying passengers, then go ahead because that's the largest area of metal. But remember that you have a fiberglass top that will mute that 'tin can' sound some what.

B) Look at LMC trucks SUBURBAN parts catalog. I think you can find 'lowers' there. You can also put some fatmat on the INSIDE of the two front doors (obviously windows have to be up to reach the inside).

C) Yes you can put this stuff pretty much anywhere. IF you put it under the hood, look at the LMC truck catalog for THEIR version that will cover the underside of the hood. I've seen it installed and it DEFINITELY lowered the amount of sound out of the engine bay. And that was without using fatmat.

D) Again, check LMC trucks SUBURBAN catalog for rear sides that will cover up the bare metal. Basically just thin compressed particle board covered with something (like the rubber on the floor). That's what I did in my SUB. Worked out great.
 

dependable

Well-known member
1,720
188
63
Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
If your aim is sound deadening, and you have the mat, you should do entire floor. On my pickups I cover the area behind the seat until it gets to the double walled part as well. and going up the sides as wallew mentioned only help. I would caution you to clean and prep any places you put this, to be sure it sticks. Don't want any to fall into the fan, for example.
 

realm

New member
103
5
0
Location
Memphis/TN
***UPDATE***

Pics of the fatmat in on the floor.
I did 3 layers from the firewall to the front of the rear seats.
Under the rear seat and the back cargo floor, I did 2 layers.
I haven't done the doors yet as I had trouble getting the panel off, but it's still on my list.

My vinyl flooring won't be here for a couple weeks.
In the meantime I'll continue undercoating underneath.
 

Attachments

AJMBLAZER

New member
2,688
8
0
Location
Paducah, KY
I got my weatherstripping through JCWhitney. I had to call to figure out which to order but it was cheaper than LMC or any of the Chevy truck sites and it worked great.
 

tanhmmwv

Member
94
6
8
Location
ma
dont forget to do the tire wells and sides of quarter panels. Those areas will resonate allot of sound/noise and all the work you just did will seem like a waste.
 

realm

New member
103
5
0
Location
Memphis/TN
***UPDATE***

Jute and vinyl floor are in... for the most part.

I didn't spend as much time on it as I should, and it was cold when I did it so the mat wasn't as plyable which left some large creases in the floor that look like crap, so I gotta fix those, but I'm not expecting a Caddy so it's good enough for now until weather warms up and I can redo it.

Just took it for the first drive today, and unfortunately, it's still loud as crud. Drivetrain noise is definitely better, but not nearly as reduced as I thought it would be thanks to that loud clacking diesel. I think most of the noise is coming from the firewall and hood, so perhaps a hood sound reduction liner kit would help more.

SO hasn't ridden in it yet, but here are the advantages that did come about:

A) Inside is far nicer on the feet and eyes (except for the creases which will be fixed).

B) Insulation is WAY better. Before the thing was freezing and would take forever to heat up. Now, with the temperature still just as cold, it gets warm almost right away and while driving I got so hot I had to shut it off completely and open a window.

C) There is less echo and boom/thump when moving or talking. More like you're in an old truck not as opposed to a giant tin can.

D) It is quieter enough to where I hear a wind gap in the door. I never noticed it before with all the engine noise.

E) Undercoating just came out awesome, so a couple pics of that.

Still have to tint the windows so I'm not driving around in a fishbowl.
 

Attachments

pinbill

New member
115
0
0
Location
denver, co
Your project looks nice. I am thinking about doing something similar. You mentioned ordering 4 rolls of fatmat how many square feet is that? How much did you end up using?

How did you adhere the vinyl?

Thanks for your help,

Bill
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks