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CUCV Starting issues

TedO

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San Diego, CA
Starting Problem:Intermittent starting: I have a M1008 with the doghead mod. Sometimes when I try to start, I turn the key and get absolutely nothing. When it is hot in the cab (120-130 F), the problem is worse. If I can get it cooled down, and jiggle the shifter, then it usually starts right up. Is this the neutral safety switch?? Is there something else I should be looking at?
 

Warthog

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Welcome to the site.

Moved your post to its own thread.

What is the delivery date of your truck? It is on the data plate on the drivers door pillar. Makes a difference as to whether you have a neutral safety switch or not.
 
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Warthog

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The 1986 trucks did not have a factory neutral safety switch.

From you description, it may be a bad ignition switch. Over the years the grease inside the switches hardens and can cause issues.
 

TedO

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I think I see something white plastic clipped on the the steering column just in front of the firewall. I thought that was the neutral safety switch. No? It must be something else. So I will be taking apart the steering column I guess.
 

Warthog

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That is the reverse light switch. The neutral safety switch is also part of that housing, but there is no wiring in the truck for it.
 

rsh4364

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Not sure if this is the right way,but made sense to me.I used test light to check,hooked up ground to doghead head relay/solenoid ground,then touched light to 24v constant, lit up,so ground and 24v constant good.Then light to 12v switched and turned key,lit up.then 24v switched,turned key,lit up.so I figured switch was good. And solenoid/relay clunked with every turn of key so I assumed it was good,I then took a chunk of 4 gauge wire and touched 24 constant post to 24v switched post and still no cranking.I figured starter,climbed underneath hit starter with hammer,fired right up.
 
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Not sure if this is the right way,but made sense to me.I used test light to check,hooked up ground to doghead head relay/solenoid ground,then touched light to 24v constant, lit up,so ground and 24v constant good.Then light to 12v switched and turned key,lit up.then 24v switched,turned key,lit up.so I figured switch was good. And solenoid/relay clunked with every turn of key so I assumed it was good,I then took a chunk of 4 gauge wire and touched 24 constant post to 24v switched post and still no cranking.I figured starter,climbed underneath hit starter with hammer,fired right up.
I've been having same issue on my '84 M1028.......maybe once every 50 starts I'll turn the key to start the truck and all I get is click/clunk and then nothing, like a dead battery. I turn the key to off, then turn the key again to start the truck and it fires right up......

I have the starter relay in hand but not yet installed for the doghead starter relay mod, but what I read here seems the starter relay addresses a whole different issue.

Is the only solution to replace the starter in this instance? Or what repair is required?

I thankfully made it through the whole south Texas deer season without being stranded due to a "no start", but need to work on the remedy now.
 

doghead

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Check and clean all battery cable connections?

Is your starter tight? Bolts and bracket.

It may be your starter solenoid.
 

rsh4364

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Do as doghead stated above, definitely do the doghead relay upgrade. And keep track of battery voltage. I also always have a spare 24v dd starter on hand.
 

cucvrus

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My guess is bad spot on the contacts in the starter solenoid. I had it happen a few times. Recently on a salt spreader M1028. If the click is coming from the starter area the relay no matter what kind is doing it's job. I have the small plug in cube relays now and some with the stock relay. The relay is NOT always the problem. Have a great day. I relied to your PM.
 

Jack Lope

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...climbed underneath hit starter with hammer,fired right up.
I was trapped at home by the big, green monster for over a day when I first got the truck! Single car garage, I ignorantly parked the truck too close that prevented the car from coming out. I could have pushed the truck back, into the road but that's a whole other issue.
Finally, think it was someone in this forum suggested a couple taps on the starter. Worked perfectly! Still haven't had the starter rebuilt, starter still sticks on rare occasion but just like a spare tire, that hammer stays with the truck! Also keep a jacket for laying on the wet dirty dirty ground.
 
159
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Location
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So I had this same issue this past weekend - I turned the key, and all I got was a click - but then unlike previous instances, turned the key to off, and turned key again but all I got was clicks for 3 more tries.......not good when 8 miles from camp.

Thankfully my brother had a wrench handy and tapped on starter case and the truck started right up, and started two more times with no issue whatsoever......all connections at batteries and starter seemed tight and secure.

So my questions now are:

If my issue is indeed the starter solenoid, and I have to remove starter to get to the solenoid, should I upgrade the starter to new and improved? If yes, what's best recommendation for new and improved?

Or, while I have the starter and solenoid off the vehicle, have the starter rebuilt/refurbished and the solenoid replaced and then re-install? I'm trying to get a quote from a starter repair place in Houston for cost to recondition a starter.
 

porkysplace

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mid- michigan
I was trapped at home by the big, green monster for over a day when I first got the truck! Single car garage, I ignorantly parked the truck too close that prevented the car from coming out. I could have pushed the truck back, into the road but that's a whole other issue.
Finally, think it was someone in this forum suggested a couple taps on the starter. Worked perfectly! Still haven't had the starter rebuilt, starter still sticks on rare occasion but just like a spare tire, that hammer stays with the truck! Also keep a jacket for laying on the wet dirty dirty ground.
That only works for so long , I would keep your road service card handy.
 
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Tinstar

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Your on borrowed time.
As mentioned, it only works for so long and then it will fail completely.

It’s telling you it needs fixed and ignoring the warning signs by still tapping on it will definitely leave you stranded at the worst possible location, in bad weather and during a time when everything’s closed.
 

olly hondro

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Huh. I'm thinking of a CUCV specific accessory: It would be a large, plunger type solenoid, pipe-clamped to the starter housing. Commanded by a dash mounted push button switch, it would energize the solenoid, giving a good whack to the starter. No more crawling under the vehicle with a big hammer. In the spirit of "Doghead relay", I'd call it the "olly thumper." I'd sell dozens of them :)

I am blessed in that my CUCV has never, ever, failed to start. I probably jinxed myself......
 

rsh4364

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greensprings ,ohio
Not sure if this is the right way,but made sense to me.I used test light to check,hooked up ground to doghead head relay/solenoid ground,then touched light to 24v constant, lit up,so ground and 24v constant good.Then light to 12v switched and turned key,lit up.then 24v switched,turned key,lit up.so I figured switch was good. And solenoid/relay clunked with every turn of key so I assumed it was good,I then took a chunk of 4 gauge wire and touched 24 constant post to 24v switched post and still no cranking.I figured starter,climbed underneath hit starter with hammer,fired right up.
I do not advise hitting your starter with a hammer, if you have gotten to that point it's time to replace ASAP. I did it just to keep my dd on the road til my new starter showed up. My 1009 is my one and only means of transportation so some times I cut corners to keep it on the road. I have not hit a cucv starter in years.
 
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