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CUCV vs. Slave Cable

doghead

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Today I used the M1008 to jump start a deuce that had totally dead batteries. I disconnected the deuce's alternator excite wire, to protect the regulator, knowing the trucks batteries probably would not take a charge.

The Deuce fired right up, so I got out and pulled the slave cable out of the receptacle and drove the truck out to the driveway to work on it.

My neighbor came over when he heard the truck running, to see what I was up to. After he left, I went out back to get the M1008 and go get some parts at the marina for another project.

I got in, started the M1008, backed up and turned around(180) and went to drive out my driveway. Just about the time I hit the driveway, I felt the right rear tire lock-up. At the same time, the truck stalled and I noticed there were no dash lights on. I was confused until I saw smoke billowing out from under the hood. That's when I remembered, I never disconnected or put away the slave cable! I jumped out and saw the cable was pulled tight( against the grill gaurd and under the rear tire). Smoke and sizzling was still occurring so I was a bit panicked and tried to pull the slave cable out of the socket but I couldn't because it was too tight and also welded to the grill guard. I got the hood up and that's when I saw what no cucv owner ever wants to see. The cable between the batteries was melted off at the terminal, but the 10 ga 12v feed wire was still connected to the rear battery negative terminal. This means 12v from the rear battery is now grounding through the 12V+ circuitry.

I gave the slave cable one more yank and broke it loose from the grill guard, leaving an arced out hole with copper wire and melted copper on it. The smoke and noises stopped.

I could see smoke near the GP relay and the drivers side alternator. I put my hand on the alternator and it was really really hot.

I was disgusted.

I looked over the damage and determined that the battery cable burned out(weak point in the 24 volt circuit). Also was obvious that a blue fusible link was missing about 2" in the middle.

I grabbed a few light gauge jumper wires and jumped the fusible link and the battery cable and turned the key on but had nothing still.

I checked my fuses and found a 20 amp fuse blown (Iirc, it was the ignition circuit). I replaced it and was happy to see I had dash lights. At some point I also noticed I did not have alt 2 light or voltmeter either.

I made a temporary repair to the fusible link, and replaced the battery cable. Cranked it up and I was rewarded with a gen 1 light on. I kinda suspected that as it was blistering hot.

I then drove it over to the garage and pulled the alternator. Opened it up and diagnosed all components and found the rectifier was bad.

I had a whole "kit" on hand, so I replaced all the internals and reinstalled the alternator.

Cranked it up and all was good. Tested all the lights and everything looks good to go.

I ordered some fusible link material and some more rebuild kits for future issues.

My slave cable was ruined, but the ends are saveable.

I just thought you guys would want to hear about this. Maybe someone else will remember to disconnect their slave cable, before driving off with it still connected. I'm pretty sure I'll remember next time.
 
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jw4x4

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Ouch!!! I bet the arc was bright as heck. I felt bad at this year's Ga Rally when I ran over Mike's big cooler with my 1009 when I moved to the other side of the 932 during the bed install. Kenny had his 24v Rigid drill & sawzall which are adapted to hook up to a slave cable. The cooler just had cosmetic damage and keeps ice for days still. It just has some character now.

You didn't take pics of the aftermath, did you?
 

3dAngus

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WOW! aua

That's worse than recommending a rule change. Sounds like a horror story, but I'm glad you have all the right expertise to get it all back together. Good story!

We do simple things wrong, but get big results from the wrongdoing.
 

doghead

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I did not take pics before or during the repair. I was very disgusted with myself.

I did take a couple pictures of the blown out terminal, after though. I could clearly see the end of the cable, inside the terminal. Oddly, it is still covered in insulation, inside the lead terminal. This makes me think the original cable is a very weak link in the 24 volt system.
 

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jw4x4

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The original cable may indeed be the weak link. In case of catastrophic dead short, it also could become an oversize fusible link. All things considered, it could have easily been worse.
 

doghead

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Agreed!
 

doghead

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Ha ha, no... I actually was going to look for that to see if that was also something I did wrong. I never remember which way to connect and disconnect the slave cable.

Step G, is where I really screwed up!

It's all good, if we learn from it.
 
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dittle

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I've arced a slave cable when trying to jump start a M60 off one of the M10A forklifts. Blew a big chunk right off the end of the enternal plug on the 60 side. Not sure what caused the arc but it scared the crap outta me.
 

doghead

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Yeah, then my wife came home and kicked my butt some more!:deadhorse:

It's her truck!
 

Keith_J

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One little tip...before jumping a vehicle you know NOTHING about, check the polarity of the NATO receptacle. Don't attempt to start any equipment that has no voltage, you might connect to dead short.

Your voltmeter is cheap insurance. The center pin is positive on NATO, on old style 2-pins, the positive is labeled. With adapters, the center positive rule still applies.
 

Recovry4x4

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At least you had the patience to fix it right away. I always walk away for a week or 3.
 

Cycletek

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Doghead you have my undying respect, because most people would not let such a story out into the world, besides myself, for no good reason.......Very entertaining and educational at the same time.

[thumbzup][thumbzup][thumbzup][thumbzup][thumbzup][thumbzup][thumbzup][thumbzup][thumbzup]
 

Recovry4x4

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FWIW I carry a fusible link repair kit in my Oh-8 @ all times. Complete right down to the adapter butt splices, shrink wrap and a heat source.
 

stranger75

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Great story. Sorry you had to go through it! We all make mistakes but keeping calm, thinking clearly and logically, and having a reasonable amount of knowledge about the equipment you are working on/ with can save the day.

Recovery4x4, I need to do the same thing with fusible links. Great idea. I have a small ammo can with electrical stuff in my truck, but I should go ahead and build some links for bad days like Doghead's. Fusible link, ring connectors, butt connectors, heat shrink, and one of those small butane torch kits with the soldering iron and heat gun tips. Having a spare ground isolated alternator on hand isn't a bad idea either.
 
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