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CUCV Wont accelerate Wont rev in neutral until RPMs creep up

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Blood_of_Tyrants

Active member
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Lebanon, TN
Somemedic, thanks for the detailed instruction. My truck did much the same thing. First it ran fine, but then it started to lose power and eventually had practically no power at all and would barely run. I took off the fuel return hose at the nipple and then removed what I believe to be a check valve and used a punch to break the glass bead out of it and reinstalled it and voila! She runs like a champ again!
 
mutt1966

mutt1966

Member
284
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Allentown, PA
How do you get the check valve out of the nipple, I took the one out of a n old pump that I have cant figger it out does it just fall out or does it need a pliers to pull it out. Thanks Scott
 
motormayhem

motormayhem

Member
609
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Location
Tucson, AZ
Mine just did the same thing. Except I was 300MI from home and didn't have all my tools to take the IP apart and clean it on the side of the road. So I am waiting for the local mechanic to replace the IP as he assured me that although it was simply clogged it was beyond repair :evil:.
 
G

grayw0lf

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Clanton, AL
Do you have to break the glass bead out? It looked at first glance like a standard size fitting? I'll verify tonight.

I also have NO power (think 4-banger), but I'm not crazy about breaking stuff if I don't have to!
 
NMC_EXP

NMC_EXP

New member
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Raton, New Mexico
Somemedic said:
PLEEZ>>> NO INJECTOR PUMP NO INJECTOR PUMP Gremlins..... just a prayer

I was driving around today and noticed a significant power loss. Truck wouldnt accelerate in D unless placed in N. Pedal was to the floor, trans in D and it wouldnt move unless it was going down a hill. After it got the rpms up it would accelerate. Seemed to run alright unless I took my foot off the pedal. When It kicked down to low idle it was rough and even died a couple times. Fired up fine. When I start it it fires up w/o hesitation and will rev (sort of) and then the idle gets rough. It idles but rough in P. Im hoping this isnt the IP cuz cash is tight. I called Chris (moderator) and at his suggestion will begin tracing down vaccuum lines and looking for leaks.
Click to expand...
Yesterday, 40 miles from home, noticed power loss on hills. Quickly got worse until with pedal to metal on the flat was good for 50 mph. At 20 miles from home it would still idle but from 0 to 50 took a few minutes. It was strange - no missing or roughness it just would not build RPM's.

At 10 miles from home had to roll thru stop signs to keep it from dying. At 1/2 mile from home it died. It would restart but die in a few seconds.

Found this thread and pulled the check valve off the front of the injection pump. The orifice was full of crud. Dug that out with a seal pick. Hosed it several times with carb cleaner. Then soaked it in Kroil. Got it to where I could blow thru it. Reinstalled, fired it up, and it runs good as ever.

Judging from the boogered up condition of the wrench flats on the valve, it's been removed many times before.

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. Like somemedic I was having visions of parting with beaucoup bucks for an injection pump.

Regards

Jim
 
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motormayhem

motormayhem

Member
609
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Tucson, AZ
NMC_EXP said:
Yesterday, 40 miles from home, noticed power loss on hills. Quickly got worse until with pedal to metal on the flat was good for 50 mph. At 20 miles from home it would still idle but from 0 to 50 took a few minutes. It was strange - no missing or roughness it just would not build RPM's.

At 10 miles from home had to roll thru stop signs to keep it from dying. At 1/2 mile from home it died. It would restart but die in a few seconds.

Found this thread and pulled the check valve off the front of the injection pump. The orifice was full of crud. Dug that out with a seal pick. Hosed it several times with carb cleaner. Then soaked it in Kroil. Got it to where I could blow thru it. Reinstalled, fired it up, and it runs good as ever.

Judging from the boogered up condition of the wrench flats on the valve, it's been removed many times before.

Thanks to all who contributed to this thread. Like somemedic I was having visions of parting with beaucoup bucks for an injection pump.

Regards

Jim
Click to expand...
The time for a new IP is coming sir. Glad you were able to squeeze some more miles out of this one.
 
NMC_EXP

NMC_EXP

New member
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Raton, New Mexico
WARWAG said:
Can someone post some pics of where and what piece you are talking about? Thanks.
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Can't use my wife's camera when my hands are greasy.

Easiest to see if you remove the air cleaner asy. At the very front of the injection pump body is a rubber tube with an O.D. of about 1/2" so probably 1/4" I.D.

The tube is about 4" long and is routed from the I.P. towards the front. It is 'T-ed' into what I assume to be the fuel return plumbing.

Loosen the hose clamp on the I.P. side & remove the hose. This will expose what looks like a normal NPT hose nipple fitting in the I.P. housing. Remove the fitting (9/16" wrench). The check valve is in the I.P. side of the fitting. The orifice is small - maybe just over 1/8". The check valve is a ball type and apparently is glass. When it's clean you can see light thru it.

On mine the orifice was plugged up with crud and after digging that out I still could not blow thru it until I hosed it with brake cleaner and penetrating oil.

I may start doing this everytime I change the oil.

Regards

Jim
 
Mudstone

Mudstone

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Norman OK
i'd really appreciate pics... or maybe a refference to part in the TM? i'm starting to lose power i think. i'd like to take a peak at your solution.nopics
 
NMC_EXP

NMC_EXP

New member
286
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Location
Raton, New Mexico
Inj Pump Check Valve Photos

WARWAG said:
Can someone post some pics of where and what piece you are talking about? Thanks.
Click to expand...
The valve is just to the driver's side of "the pink wire".

I checked some dimensions. The hose nipple O.D. is 0.250". The O.D. of the threads is 0.427" and it looks like a straight, not National Pipe Taper, thread.

It has an o-ring seal (the pink object between the threads and shank of the valve), so it is probably a Straight Thread O-Ring (STOR) type fitting...not something the local hardware store will have.

Regards

Jim
 

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