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CUCV won't start

harryhr

Member
90
9
8
Location
Niagara Falls, New York
I had my batteries disconnected from my M1009 and a 24 volt charger set on trickle charge for almost a month. Today I connected the batteries to my M1009 in contemplation of starting the truck. I turned the ignition switch on and let the glow plugs cycle two times before starting. Engine cranks but will not start. I tried three times but still will not start. There is a full tank of diesel (I made sure the tank was full before storing the Blazer). Any suggestions to get it started. I will not use starting fluid. Because it sat for almost a whole month, is there a chance air or moisture got into the fuel line and I will need to bleed the filter? I usually connect the batteries once a month and start the truck and let it run for awhile and take it for a drive if the roads are dry and free of salt. I did last month with no problem starting. Blazer is stored in my garage. Any help/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

nyoffroad

Well-known member
895
601
93
Location
Rochester NY
Are you sure the GP's are working? Any smoke? It could be the GP's aren't working or the relay or it could be a leak in the fuel system and the engine lost it's prime. Or it could be the fuel shut off solenoid in the IP
 

Recovry4x4

LLM/Member 785
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
34,014
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113
Location
GA Mountains
Turn the key to run and head under the hood. Disconnect and reconnect the pink wire atop the injection pump. You should be able to hear the solenoid click if all is well.
 

TGP (IL)

Active member
511
33
28
Location
Metro East IL
Remove the Pink wire on the IP.
Open bleed screw on the filter and crank engine to ensure fuel delivery.

If you have fuel and your glow plugs check out bleed the system.
My guess is it lost prime.
Tom
 

harryhr

Member
90
9
8
Location
Niagara Falls, New York
What is IP? I'm sure the GP's are working. There is no smoke. Truck fired up last month and it was much colder. Batteries are fully charged and the starter cranks like it should. I need to get someone over so they can bleed the fuel filter while I crank or I'll bleed the filter while they crank the engine. I'll trouble shoot again this weekend. Thanks for the info...
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Location
NY
Injection Pump - IP
 

harryhr

Member
90
9
8
Location
Niagara Falls, New York
I was not having any problems starting my Blazer this winter at least once a week or every other week I would start the truck and let it run for awhile and maybe take it out for a short drive.. Fired right up, no problems. This week it decides to crank but not start. I was looking under the hood today but did not see any pink wire's. I'm waiting for a friend to come by this Saturday. We are going to bleed the fuel filter and hopefully that is the problem. There are what appears to be two knobs on top and the one on the left (looking from the front of the truck) seems to have "screw driver" slots on it, so I guess that's the one to adjust. I'm not all that familiar with the 6.2 liter diesel, so please excuse my ignorance. I'm used to working on deuce and a half's, 5 tonner's etc. I sold my deuce a few years back and still have sellers remorse. My Blazer has low mileage but I've already put a few bucks in parts in it. Injector pump sounds like a major job.
 

harryhr

Member
90
9
8
Location
Niagara Falls, New York
I was looking under the hood today and did not see any pink wire's. Bleed screw is on the left top of fuel filter (looking from the front of the truck)? How far do I open bleed screw?
 

harryhr

Member
90
9
8
Location
Niagara Falls, New York
Hey rodent, I was always told that no question is dumb. So here goes....Once I unscrew the bleed screw, will I need to crank the engine for the fuel to come out the tube ? How long should I let the fuel run out the tube before I shut off the bleeder? I was supposed to have some help today but now that is not going to happen. I'll have to do it myself. Such is life. Thank you for your patience.
 

TGP (IL)

Active member
511
33
28
Location
Metro East IL
Crank over for 20/30 sec. at a time with a pause in between so to not overheat the starter.
Once fuel flows steadily close the valve and repeat couple more times to charge the IP.
Plug pink wire back in hold pedal at half way and crank until it starts.
Tom
 

usmcpatriot

Member
199
14
18
Location
Bumpass, VA
Nearly fell out of my seat when I saw the picture too! Simple stuff first I guess. Good time to get rid of the coffin filter, and get a spin on. I'd check every glow plug too. Just saying. Post more pics, gotta see them man!
 

Gralmk

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
621
48
28
Location
Attleboro, MA
Hi larryhr

Any luck, if it still doesn't start try some tips in the post "cucv losing prime" we also after all that found out that the LH bank of glow plugs was not firing all the time due to the splice at the end of the orange wire were it meets the green wires at the glow plugs, was lose. When we hit the wire we lost glow plugs on one side. CUCV's don't like it when the glow plugs aren't working, even in warm weather! We replaced the terminal on the wire and the truck started right up and has been fine sense!

This and a new fuel pump fixed our issue.

Good luck
 

harryhr

Member
90
9
8
Location
Niagara Falls, New York
Good news. I had time to get under the hood today. Disconnected pink wire from the IP, unscrewed bleeder a quarter turn, removed fuel cap. Placed a small container under bleeder line and cranked engine at short intervals three times. Fuel in container. Closed bleeder cap, tightened fuel cap. Had to crank engine several times to get fuel flowing and it started. Left it run for 20 minutes. Took the truck out for a drive. Everything back to normal running condition. Shut it off and let it set for an hour. Started on the first crank. Looks like I will be starting it weekly for the rest of winter. Thank you to everyone for all the advise.
 

Merddin

Member
91
-1
6
Location
Cape Girardeau, MO
Before spin on mod, try a new fuel filter. Prime using same procedure you just did. Also tighten or replace all of the hose clamps in that area. 3 around d the fuel pump, 2 clamps on fuel filter base, and one clamp under Intake at IP. This clamp can be reached with long screwdriver going under the side of the intake manifold. You can reach your arm behind the intake near firewall and feel the fuel line forward and find that clamp. I was able to spin mine on the hose before tightening. Most of these hoses are 30 years old and have shrunk some. I changed filter and tightened all these clamps and made a huge difference. My truck was losing prime in 2-3 days.
 

turnertmb91

New member
9
0
1
Location
Texas
24 volt converted to 12 volt. Have had no issues, than bang batteries are dead. New alternators (both are 100 amp) alt belt is torqued to spec., GP's are good, fuel pump is good, both batteries tested good, and load test showed no issues. Starter was tested it was good. Ran a direct wire from alternator to battery because the wire was dead, that didn't fix the issue. Manually charged both batteries checked terminal s all good. Tested all lights, including dummy light everything comes on and works. Voltage meter does not work never has, but was told to remove the voltage meter fuse, did not fix issue. Nothing added new no radio, no CB nothing to cause a parasitic drain still can not isolate the issue. Any ideas or advice?
 

harryhr

Member
90
9
8
Location
Niagara Falls, New York
Fuel filter was new this past September. Clamps were replaced when filter was changed. Changed hoses same time. Thank you for the good advise. My fault for the filter losing prime because the truck sat for almost a full month without starting it. A couple days of warm weather and now it's back to winter cold. I started the truck today with no issues, so it's back to starting the truck a couple times or more a week. I have the batteries on trickle charge (24V charger you can get at NAPA auto parts).
 
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