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Cummins 6bt swap electrical nitty gritty

231
5
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Location
Mount Laurel NJ
Hey everyone. Thought I'd make another post about this project. A buddy of mine is stuffing a 6bt in his M1009. New 14 bolts/d60's in and whatnot... But this got us thinking. We need to convert to 12V of course and I know there are write-ups on this. But let's get more technical. Is it possible to 12V convert and keep 1 battery instead of two? Also, doesn't that make the gen 1 and 2 lights on the dash irrelevant afterwards? We want to fit some other squarebody guage cluster from a civvy vehicle, but we aren't sure if the stock wire harness will take one of those clusters? Does anyone have experience with this? I may revisit this thread from time to time if we have questions. Thanks so much y'all. Stay greasy!
 
231
5
16
Location
Mount Laurel NJ
Don't the 12v conversions you see require 2 alternators still though? Also, I don't know for sure, but I think having that extra battery in there is going to make stuffing a 6bt really tough
 

Chaski

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Burney/CA
Don't the 12v conversions you see require 2 alternators still though? Also, I don't know for sure, but I think having that extra battery in there is going to make stuffing a 6bt really tough

Every pickup that has ever rolled off the assembly line with a 6bt had dual batteries. Between the giant starter and the grid heater you may want to keep dual batteries, for certain in a cold climate. Look under the hood of any dodge ram with a Cummins and you will see one alternator and dual batteries. You should be able to ditch that second light, a pyrometer would be nice in its place.
 

doghead

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Every pickup that has ever rolled off the assembly line with a 6bt had dual batteries. Between the giant starter and the grid heater you may want to keep dual batteries, for certain in a cold climate. Look under the hood of any dodge ram with a Cummins and you will see one alternator and dual batteries. You should be able to ditch that second light, a pyrometer would be nice in its place.
The 1990 dodge tug I had only came with one battery.


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231
5
16
Location
Mount Laurel NJ
I'll try to keep both batteries then... But something to think about was even with the 12V conversion, I think you still needed the two alternators... One for each battery? Any general advice on how to maintain one alternator for the two batteries?
 

Chaski

Active member
684
55
28
Location
Burney/CA
I'll try to keep both batteries then... But something to think about was even with the 12V conversion, I think you still needed the two alternators... One for each battery? Any general advice on how to maintain one alternator for the two batteries?

I'd try to make the connection between the two batteries as low impedance as possible (within reason). That way they would be seeing the same voltage across the terminals when charging, to not favor one battery over the other.
 
231
5
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Location
Mount Laurel NJ
But if you have the two alternators now, there are two harnesses total. How will you be able to make this whole kit and kaboodle work with now one alternator? I've never seen a writup or a discussion about it yet unfortunately. Can you just get an insulated ground alternator​ for a Cummins and just put the two generator leads together? (Excuse my ignorance)
 

scottladdy

Member
538
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18
Location
CT
So, I am NOT knocking this project as I do enjoy the square body and tinkering. But was wondering, in an effort to help out, why the conversion? What are you trying to achieve? Given all the work involved, why not get an older Cummins powered rig to start with? What will the square body do in this configuration that an equivalent Dodge could not? It is a considerable investment of time and probably funds to achieve.

This will help me understand better what to recommend.

And, I fully understand "Because I want to" as a legitimate answer as I have done my share of this kind of thing myself.

Appreciate your tolerance of this inquiry.

All the best!
 
231
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Mount Laurel NJ
Thanks for really keeping an open mind to what I have to say. A lot of times whenever anyone proposes any kind of swap, usually there are some passionate opinions that get tossed around. As for me though, it is a little hard to answer to bare with me. I daily this CUCV every day, and I have put on over 15,000 miles on it since I owned it. I loved every hot, sweaty, noisy ride. And I even took a train 1600 miles to get the one I wanted most. Probably invested hundreds of hours to get it to where it is today (which probably doesn't seem like it from how many questions I ask on this forum). But that is the thing. I have dreamed of having a nice K5 that I can really just get passionate about, and hopefully will be the last truck I will need. I want to do an ambitious swap because this truck is not just another vehicle, it will be my adventure rig, my daily, my get away from every day life. I am a mechanical engineer and my practice is quality being the #1 priority. The cummins has such a great history, and since I baby my M1009 I am sure that an engine setup like that will last and last. I intend on going on crazy stupid long journeys to experience all of the United States, and make some amazing memories. I want a platform that I know I can easily fix on the trail (no electronics if possible) or count on to get me through the tough stuff. Not saying that other swaps or even leaving it stock couldn't do, but being that it is a vehicle I have such a soft spot for, why give it anything less than the best? And thank YOU for tolerating this post haha. :beer:
 

scottladdy

Member
538
8
18
Location
CT
Ahh, a project of passion. Excellent! So if I read this correctly you have an affinity for the K5 Blazer, and also feel the Cummins is the ideal power plant.

So, why not go with a 24Volt Cummins? With either inline power plant option you have plenty of room on the sides to hang dual alts. May require some fabrication work for the mounts but you would keep the wiring pretty much stock for the CUCV.

Sorry if this is a crazy idea.

As for me, I am planning on sticking with the GM options for a lot of the positive reasons stated above. I have a really good friend who is a serious MOPAR nut and who thinks I am crazy for sticking with the GM's. But he still can't believe that my two CUCV's are daily driven and are just as reliable as my Honda's. Get in, turn the key, (wait for the diesels of course) and go!

When I began to wrench on these years ago, I had forgotten how well built and in some cases over built these vehicles were. In an era where built in obsolescence was king and people were trading their cars in every three years GM still understood that especially for trucks certain parts should be repairable with replaceable wear components etc. It was fun to tear down and repair an alternator again and not just throw in a new one and toss the old as is often the case on modern cars. Even the steering column is completely rebuild-able.

I have added a Gear Vendors to the M1008. It now is driveable on the highway. I am adding a turbo to both. I am adding A/C to both. I will need to fabricate a mount for the compressor. As I will never need the extra capacity of the big rig batteries (and modern AGM's are darn close anyway) I reverted the battery mounts to the dual civilian style and made custom 1 gauge cables for the battery's. Ran the crossover cable over the radiator so the "front" battery is on the drivers side. Ran the 12v positive feed up the drivers side through a 150A circuit breaker and over to the junction block and got rid of the fuseable link. I installed a civilian style overflow on the passenger side fender well. The trucks are tons easier to work on especially on the passenger side with all the extra room. The tranny is bulletproof and easy to swap/repair. They are low complexity mechanically driven and CHEAP to repair. They are a BLAST to drive and my kids and students absolutely love to see and ride in them. I am very pleased with the way they have turned out, and don't believe I am done enhancing them yet.

Lastly, I have an easy and "cheap" engine swap if I need it with an optimizer or P400. I could not replace these old school trucks with their "charm" for anywhere close to the $8K an engine would cost with a "modern" truck.

And really lastly, I get 18+ MPG in dead simple machines.
 
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