Cut Hood Wire Harness on ECV

[rhino1515]

I just picked up a M1167 and found out the front wire harness for the lights was cut just before the nose/hood. Looking at the wiring diagram, I shouldn't have much of a problem toning out the 8 wires on the end that goes towards the nose/hood, but does anyone have any tips on how to tone out the end towards the truck? I was thinking I may be able to tone a few from the trailer plug pins on the rear bumper, and perhaps the high/low beam switch, and whatever is left from light switch? Just wondering if there is an easier way?

Thanks!

 

[TOBASH]

? Start the truck, turn on the lights, check for voltage at the main headlights, then step on switch for high beams and tone them, then turn on the flasher to the right and check all the wires for intermittent voltage and then turn on the flasher to the left and check all the wires for intermittent voltage?

 

[rhino1515]

? Start the truck, turn on the lights, check for voltage at the main headlights, then step on switch for high beams and tone them, then turn on the flasher to the right and check all the wires for intermittent voltage and then turn on the flasher to the left and check all the wires for intermittent voltage?

Unfortunately the truck is currently missing the start box and there is a bunch of other wiring cleanup I need to do before I can consider putting power to it which is why I'm leaning towards trying to tone the wires.

 

[TOBASH]

I posted how to make a cheap do it yourself start box after working with several other members on the design. I also sell those boxes as does another member. PM me if you wish to purchase one or just discuss the design. If you do it yourself, you’ll better understand the wiring for your vehicle. It will also allow you to more easily tone the wires.

(schematics start at post 51 - they are “freeware”)

How to bypass PCB? I am aware some HMMWV owners have done it.

good to know, I have fixed my location... Then why is your IP resolving to a different state?

www.steelsoldiers.com

You can also go to the free technical manual section and look up wiring numbers. All of the wires in this vehicle should have metal clips with a number on them. Those numbers refer to circuit numbers. That will allow you to determine which circuit attaches to which wire so that you can undo the damage done in the demilitarization process. Just match the numbers.

If I were you, I would get the vehicle running first before you worry about lights, in my humble opinion.

 

[rhino1515]

I posted how to make a cheap do it yourself start box after working with several other members on the design. I also sell those boxes as does another member. PM me if you wish to purchase one or just discuss the design. If you do it yourself, you’ll better understand the wiring for your vehicle. It will also allow you to more easily tone the wires.

(schematics start at post 51 - they are “freeware”)

How to bypass PCB? I am aware some HMMWV owners have done it.

good to know, I have fixed my location... Then why is your IP resolving to a different state?

www.steelsoldiers.com

You can also go to the free technical manual section and look up wiring numbers. All of the wires in this vehicle should have metal clips with a number on them. Those numbers refer to circuit numbers. That will allow you to determine which circuit attaches to which wire so that you can undo the damage done in the demilitarization process. Just match the numbers.

If I were you, I would get the vehicle running first before you worry about lights, in my humble opinion.

Thanks for that, I'm aware of the wiring diagrams and wire tags - just trying to see if there is an easier way to avoid taking everything apart to tone things back. As for running, there are a few other mechanical things that need to be taken care of before it will run. Unfortunately, some parts are fairly scarce these days and will take a few weeks to get in which is why I'm taking care of what I can now.

 

[Action]

Truck does not need to be running to use the lights.
The trailer plug seems like the easiest way to access, but you will need to look up what pin is for what.
If the exposed wires are what was cut, i think 86humv had some harnesses available a while ago. They are a short hood harness at each corner that screws onto panel near back of headlights. That would be a lot easier.

 

[rhino1515]

Truck does not need to be running to use the lights.
The trailer plug seems like the easiest way to access, but you will need to look up what pin is for what.
If the exposed wires are what was cut, i think 86humv had some harnesses available a while ago. They are a short hood harness at each corner that screws onto panel near back of headlights. That would be a lot easier.

It was cut near the nose.

 

[TOBASH]

Truck does not need to be running to use the lights.
The trailer plug seems like the easiest way to access, but you will need to look up what pin is for what.
If the exposed wires are what was cut, i think 86humv had some harnesses available a while ago. They are a short hood harness at each corner that screws onto panel near back of headlights. That would be a lot easier.

EDIT- Mogman below corrected me. All power to all devices goes through EESS/PCB. I reviewed schematics and he is correct so therefore I was wrong .


Action is 100% on any truck with 200 or 400 amp alternator. M1167 should be able to power up lights without EESS. 60 amp units won’t be able to (but that shouldn’t affect you).

IIRC, all the alternator current on older 60 amp units runs through the PCB. 200 and 400 amp unit equipped HMMWV’s have a bypass. Please correct me if I’m wrong.

 

[Mogman]

The power to everything in the dash goes through the EESS, matters not what alternator it has

 

[TOBASH]

The power to everything in the dash goes through the EESS, matters not what alternator it has

I stand corrected

 

[HmmwvTim]

Not sure how late I am but I got this from an ebayer a while back for 30$ a pop. I just got my truck started today and noblowby yay^^ but I need to do the wiring. Mine was also cut. Since there are no labels, I can use a miltometer to determine which wire is which but I need a diagram for what is expected for which hole on the canister plug.

Hopefully the part number helps out a lot. I do have 3 hood plugs. Bought 3 from a guy here just in case one doesn’t work or i needed to cut one up for testing (before I found the canister plug). If both of mine work, I could sell you the last one (at cost). You would only need to outsource one more afterwords.

 

[HmmwvTim]

Oh… disregard. Took a second look at your photos. They cut my wires at the hood light plug only. Let me know what you did for I will work on mine now.