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cylinder seal replacement

319cssb

Well-known member
1,018
221
63
Location
Easley SC
Are the cylinder end caps hard to get off?
I found a thread whilst reading through the posts (can't find it anymore of course) , but this individual listed a bunch of tools and an entire seal kit from ebay. I managed to save the ebay listings, but not the thread, to read through it again.
Can the end caps be loosened while they are on the vehicle? or will that damage things?
 

porkysplace

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
9,604
1,484
113
Location
mid- michigan
They can be , keep in mind they are close to 40 years old and probably never re-packed.
Replacement glands are pricey if you have to replace them . Most Case dealer have the gland wrenches on the shelf .
 

The Stuff Fixer

New member
15
20
3
Location
Wink,Tx
I bought my wrench on Ebay and it works fine. It works on the small and large sizes. All my cylinders have a small screw in them holding the gland from moving. Redid all my cylinders that were leaking( a few were pouring) on the machine. Of course you have to take the top pin out, sometimes a pain to put back in.
 

319cssb

Well-known member
1,018
221
63
Location
Easley SC
So I bought myself some tools from ebay
C6571019-1211-46D4-BBAC-FAF23AAB62BA.jpegAD448211-4F87-4373-BE35-0EC6BE9BF6EF.jpeg
in order to replace the leaky seals and gaskets in my SEE’s hydraulic system.
I bought the seal kit from eBay as well
A249E5E0-9F9C-4BB6-99EB-6CED0611D1AA.jpeg
is there any advice on how to tackle this job?
Like any hints on hammering the roll Pins out that hold the cylinder pins in place?
 

The Stuff Fixer

New member
15
20
3
Location
Wink,Tx
Lots of WD40 or what ever you like, some kind of drift pin and a large hammer. Some of them came out easy and some had to beat out like crazy. When I did mine I removed pins first before taking seal end apart, that way I could use truck power to move ram(s) as needed to take bind off of machine. Also use bucket to catch fluid loss from ram removal.
 

319cssb

Well-known member
1,018
221
63
Location
Easley SC
Getting the pins out wasn't really bad. The end caps came off nicely, too. Got the bucket situated in a safe manner. everything went really smooth.
Until I got the bag with all the seals out and matched up the seals with the bucket cylinders. That's when I realized that my seal kit was just for the back-hoe. I just knew something was wrong, when things go really smooth, there usually is something wrong.
So for now I have to wait for more parts to arrive. :(
AF277109-CC38-4B2E-B1A7-BCF177322930.jpegA79326D4-D8BC-4054-85D7-81EFDF24F9FD.jpeg549758F5-75CF-4EF3-9F4B-095F35DC6118.jpeg1A41DAE7-43BE-4771-9537-BCDE90859911.jpegDE7991F6-0C98-4743-9FFB-C1B662C7D902.jpeg
 

Tarek

New member
13
6
3
Location
clearwater, FL
Don't mean to hijack the thread, but because it's about the loader hydraulic cylinders:

I seem to have messed up the the threads on the rod and rod nut, because the rod wasn't secured enough when I used the big air impact wrench. So I must repair the rod threads and get a new nut. And so the adventure begins

By my research, I concluded the rod and nut are 1 inch, 18 tpi, and the parts manual agrees with that. I bought everything, but found that the 1 inch - 18 nut could not possibly fit over the rod. Caliper measurements indicate it's an M26x1.5 thread. Is it normal for the manual to be wrong on that? I checked and double checked and I thin the manual is wrong. Has anyone encountered this issue?
I was going to start a new thread, but also thought there would be value to bringing it up here
 
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