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D60/14BFF Axle Swap on M1009

478
12
18
Location
Tucson AZ
Well I did some research and it looks like a lot of blazers will need a 1350/S44 conversion u joint. This would be a Spicer 5-3205X.
Its incoming from ebay and it I am wrong I will update this post for future reference.
 
478
12
18
Location
Tucson AZ
I definitely would have liked 410 gears but these are cucv axles so I'm getting 456. It'll be nice when in the hills though!
And as a bonus I found an unexpected traclok in the front axle

!IMG_4954.jpg
 
478
12
18
Location
Tucson AZ
Is using the factory m1008 wheels a good/bad idea? Do I need wheel spacers to use 35x12.5x16 on the factory wheels? As I'm wrapping up the axle swap I'm preparing to buy tires and I'd like to get the wheels figured out first. I'd hate to buy all that rubber only to find out the factory wheels are wrong.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
I think the 1008 wheels might be lighter than the 1009 wheels, so from that standpoint they're a good idea.
And I don't see why you would need any spacers. If you do, I'd go with an aftermarket wheel with less back spacing.
 

honda

Member
52
-1
6
Location
Southern Arizona
I think the 1008 wheels might be lighter than the 1009 wheels, so from that standpoint they're a good idea.
And I don't see why you would need any spacers. If you do, I'd go with an aftermarket wheel with less back spacing.
I'm Just finishing up an axle swap from a donor 1008 into the 1009 - no lift on the 1009. Used the disc brake conversion with Caddy calipers with new ( new to me) original 16 inch steel m1008 wheels cleaned and powder coated. I wanted a really clean surface to mount the inside sticky weights just to see if the sticky weights would clear the calipers. If the inside sticky weights cause a clearance issue with the Caddy calipers the inside weights will obviously get replaced with outside hammer on weights with a little rattle can paint to follow. Right now I don't see a need for a spacer. I would rather trim the caliper. It's only the extreme outside corner of the caliper which causes any clearance concern.

Without the sticky weights the m1008 16 inch wheels had about a 1/4 - 3/8" clearance from the Caddy calipers. I might grind down the calipers just a bit to provide a tad bit more clearance. I'm not sure how much ( if any ) those steel wheels flex. If I had not installed the disc brakes and the caddy calipers the 16 inch wheels would have been exactly what just came off the donor 1008 with the original drums and clearance would have been a non-issue.

I have a single 285x75xR16 MTR Wrangler mounted on one of the 16 inch steel wheels for sizing. The axles are not yet mounted so I am not 100% positive there will be total clearance all around when the tire is finally mounted on the truck. I considered the 305x75xR16 MTR's but this size would have pushed the envelope a tad more.

I you have a lift your issues may be a bit different. My truck has a lot of real estate up top so I was looking to stay out of the stratosphere.

I see your home base is Tucson. I'm in SV, just a bit s/e of your location. Maybe when this is all done we can swap lies.

I have 5 powder coated 16 inch steel M1008 rims staring at me from the garage, wondering when they get shoes. I would be glad to weigh one for ya. Sorry, don't have any empty 1009 15 inch rims hanging around. Maybe someone else could weigh a 15 incher.
 

The FLU farm

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,338
1,319
113
Location
The actual midwest, NM.
If the inside sticky weights cause a clearance issue with the Caddy calipers the inside weights will obviously get replaced with outside hammer on weights with a little rattle can paint to follow. Without the sticky weights the m1008 16 inch wheels had about a 1/4 - 3/8" clearance from the Caddy calipers.
If you use 1/4-oz. rather than 1/2-oz. weights, they're quite thin. At least the old lead ones I still have are.
Of course, you'll need twice as many.
 
478
12
18
Location
Tucson AZ
Well my swap is all done and here are some things I learned during the process that haven't already been mentioned.
1. Do all the seals on both axles before installing.
2. Replace At least the wheel bearings, if not all the bearings.
3. Turn the rotors and drums while you have them apart. Also replacing the brake pads, shoes, and hardware.
4. Replace the u joints and locking hubs on the dana 60.
5. Use a plasma cutter to remove the spring perches and shock mounts. You'll hate trying to use a grinder.
6. The M1009 brake lines can be reused if you want.
7. Replace the gear oil. I splurged on the royal purple on amazon.
8. Have replacement e-brake cables on hand so you don't have to redo it later. Rockauto has them.
9. Degrease and clean everything while you work.
10. Take this opportunity to replace the drive shafts' ujoints.
11. Replace the tie rod, tie rod end, drag link, and ball joints. Use moog parts they are nice.
12. Clean and regrease everything.
13. Replace the upper kingpin bushing, spring, etc. on the d60
14. Strongly consider doing the lower kingpin bearing etc.
15. Paint the axle housings after you degrease them.
16. You will need all new u-bolts front and back. ORD actually has competitive prices on these.
17. Buy some 12 ton jack stands on amazon. These are much better than standard stands but not necessary unless you don't wanna drop your truck on your legs.
 

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Ilikemtb999

Active member
696
45
28
Location
Denver, CO
Do any of you guys that have swapped axles and are using 35" tires know which speedo gears we need to buy?
I used a green 44T gear and kept the little converter box. You need a different housing if you want to get rid of that little box. My speedo is very very close to being on with 3.73 gears and 34.6" tires (315/75/16 ko2's)
 
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