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Dancing with the Pushrod...

91W350

Well-known member
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Salina, Kansas
I swapped out the lift pump in my M1009 today and like always, at least always for me, the pushrod slid out of the block and into the block off plate. Another trip to the parts store for a gasket. When I got home, I found out the last guy in there painted it with hardening black gasket sealer. Three hours of scraping with a razor blade up in that hole. I was beginning to think it would be less trouble to take the engine mounts loose and jack up the engine to gain some space.

I wish the guy that designed that GM pushrod would have been on a nice vacation the day they designed their V8s. I cleaned the hole with brake clean and coated the pushrod with a nice heavy coat of axle grease, back together we went....

That pump replacement on the 6.2 in these trucks is worse than a 454 in a Corvette.....

It was still fun... Glen
 

Warthog

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Been there. Done That. And it wasn't even my CUCV.......LOL

Did you check the fuel hose while you where at it? If the motor mount craps out it will allow the fuel hose to rub on the cross member. Pumps don't like to suck air....:wink:
 

CUCV85

Member
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central/ny
Mine is gone, happy to have it gone, the electric pump is doing fine.:-D

Cheater ;-)
I wish I had know to do the electric pump. Oh well...
The Lift pump is the second thing I did as preventive Maintenance.
The first thing I did was treat the heck out of the fuel and change the oil...
 

91W350

Well-known member
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I think there is a threaded boss for that, it is not very convenient either.

I always used axle grease to hold the rod up in the hole.

I seriously considered the electric pump route, it would be so much easier to bleed off air, looking back, I should have done that!

The hose was in great shape. the engine mounts have not broken down in this one yet, maybe somebody has been there too!
 

rlwm211

Active member
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Guilford, NY
using an intank TBI fuel pump

I would think that an in tank fuel pump from a TBI equipped GM would be an adequate lift pump for a 6.2 or 6.5 diesel. They work better with a return line so the pump stays cooler. When you have a high stall scenario for an electric fuel pump it cavitates and creates heat. The fuel actually takes heat away from the pump. The nominal pressure of a TBI pump is 7-9 pounds per square inch and it has at least twice the volume capacity needed for even a big block v8 so a diesel should present no problem..

As to managing the pump so the pump stops if the truck stops for some reason instead of pumping fuel to the engine even if it is not running as long a the key is on. If for some reason there was an accident where the vehicle stalled and there was a fuel leak due the accident damage, adding fuel may be a dangerous idea. That is why most vehicles use an oil pressure switch to keep the pump on as long as the engine is running and making at least 4 psi oil pressure. This also is supposed to protect the engine if the oil pressure gets too low, but in my opinion it is already too late if it gets down to 4 psi.

As to using an intank pump, it can be done, but might be a bit of work. Those of you using an external fuel pump for a lift pump, it may be a good idea to find a way to protect you and your vehicle in the event of a collision. Even an inertia switch from a mid 80's ford to interrupt fuel flow would be better than nothing.

Just my two cents worth

RL
 

ralbelt

Active member
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West Warwick, R.I.
Thanks to SS and reading about all the PITA'S when replacing the fuel lift pump, I chose to change it out as preventive maintenance. Almost a piece of cake but then I did have the exhaust manifold and head off.:wink:
 

kipman

Active member
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Lancaster Ohio
To cut in a electric pump was no big deal, easy to wire up, real easy to bleed air out of the system, I know Westy does not like them.:-D
 

4bogginchevys

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rathdrum idaho
the treaded hole w/ bolt trick is a great one to know! Just make sure you get a bolt long enough at the hardware store...but not too long, I think anything over 2" has clearance issues for your wrench, atleast it did on my small block.:-D
 

chicklin

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Kansas City, MO
If it's like the gas small-block pumps, I had a long and frustrating night doing the same thing until I came across a great tip. Lift the push-rod up with your fingers or some long needle-nose pliers, whatever it takes. Then, slip a long hacksaw blade (or something similar) in there to hold it up while you stick the pump arm into the cavity. Once you get the pump in there as far as you can, pull the hacksaw blade out and push the pump the rest of the way in. Worked like a charm. I also filled that cavity with a bunch of grease as I heard that was a good idea.

Again, this was on a gas small-block, so if it's not the same I'm an idiot :)
 
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