Deep Water Fording Kit

[cjd]

My truck has the fording kit that was de-milled. I don't understand the kit fully, so I don't understand what was done/removed in the demil. When I look on Ebay, there is a "full" kit and a much cheaper kit offered. Can someone explain what the de-mil entails, and also is the small kit all I need to bring it back online?

 

[diesel_dave]

My truck has the fording kit that was de-milled. I don't understand the kit fully, so I don't understand what was done/removed in the demil. When I look on Ebay, there is a "full" kit and a much cheaper kit offered. Can someone explain what the de-mil entails, and also is the small kit all I need to bring it back online?

If it's the same de-mil mine went through, they removed the CDR valve, the deep ford selector valve, and the sensor cup. Everything else was still intact so I just bought new ones of those and installed them. Now it's functional again.

 

[Mogman]

Just know the open hose in the bracket leads directly to the intake, anything gets sucked in it will cost you a new engine.
If you do not plan on doing any deep water fording just get the regular CDR valve, would not make much difference in an "emergency" and nobody with common sense would take a HMMWV deep water fording intentionally.

EDIT, after the "emergency" you would be advised to check/change all the fluids which is also what one should do if they had a "working" fording system.

 

[diesel_dave]

Just know the open hose in the bracket leads directly to the intake, anything gets sucked in it will cost you a new engine.
If you do not plan on doing any deep water fording just get the regular CDR valve, would not make much difference in an "emergency" and nobody with common sense would take a HMMWV deep water fording intentionally.
View attachment 865951

Yes exactly this. If you aren't a weirdo like me that wants that feature to work (but will never ever actually use it) save yourself the trouble and install a normal CDR valve and save some money and hassle.

 

[cjd]

Thanks guys. I take it that hole is something I need to take care of right now. I'll look it over and figure out how far to go on it.

 

[Retiredwarhorses]

The DWF is frankly useless…at least the CDR and valve are. Most important is preventing water injestion into the engine, which is left intact.

 

[cjd]

You're absolutely right! I will never use the DWF. Still, I'm the type that stews about having equipment on my truck that doesn't work. Ask one of your OCD friends and they can explain the feeling to you...LOL

 

[blutow]

You're absolutely right! I will never use the DWF. Still, I'm the type that stews about having equipment on my truck that doesn't work. Ask one of your OCD friends and they can explain the feeling to you...LOL

Same. I was originally going to skip putting it back on, but I couldn't stand the hole in the dash and hoses going to nowhere. I could have just installed the valve for looks and cleaned up the hoses, but I would have known... It's a system I'll probably never use and just another thing that could go wrong, but I like original vehicles with everything working. I recently bought all the parts needed and it's on my to-do list. Theoretically, it's a total waste of money and time, but that's pretty much the description of most hobbies.

 

[diesel_dave]

Same. I was originally going to skip putting it back on, but I couldn't stand the hole in the dash and hoses going to nowhere. I could have just installed the valve for looks and cleaned up the hoses, but I would have known... It's a system I'll probably never use and just another thing that could go wrong, but I like original vehicles with everything working. I recently bought all the parts needed and it's on my to-do list. Theoretically, it's a total waste of money and time, but that's pretty much the description of most hobbies.

100% agreed. I'll never use it but I can't stand the idea of it not being installed for whatever reason.

 

[TOBASH]

Just put something else in the hole and call it a day

 

[Mogman]

Put in a lamp connected to one of the glow plug wires, you will get much more use out of that than the valve.

 

[cjd]

Put in a lamp connected to one of the glow plug wires, you will get much more use out of that than the valve.

Would that be different than the amber lamp on the dash?

 

[Mogman]

Would that be different than the amber lamp on the dash?

YES, if you connect a lamp to one of the actual glow plug wires you will see what is actually happening at the glow plug, the wait light actually means nothing.
If working correctly you will see the light lit at the same time the wait light is lit, then when the wait light goes out you will see the glow plug receive pulses for another minuet or two this is called "afterglow"

Many times if you cycle the run switch incorrectly or your wait light just flashes and goes out you will still see the controller sending afterglow pulses to the glow plugs, even if relatively cold if you wait for 30 seconds or so of afterglow the plugs will be hot enough and the engine will start.

And of course if you see a steady glow plug light after the wait light goes out it is time to turn off the batteries as the controller is about to fry the plugs.

This would be the very first mod I would make to any HMMWV except my Duramax as I don't use glow plugs on direct injection diesels.

 

[Milcommoguy]

YES, if you connect a lamp to one of the actual glow plug wires you will see what is actually happening at the glow plug, the wait light actually means nothing.
If working correctly you will see the light lit at the same time the wait light is lit, then when the wait light goes out you will see the glow plug receive pulses for another minuet or two this is called "afterglow"

Many times if you cycle the run switch incorrectly or your wait light just flashes and goes out you will still see the controller sending afterglow pulses to the glow plugs, even if relatively cold if you wait for 30 seconds or so of afterglow the plugs will be hot enough and the engine will start.

And of course if you see a steady glow plug light after the wait light goes out it is time to turn off the batteries as the controller is about to fry the plugs.

This would be the very first mod I would make to any HMMWV except my Duramax as I don't use glow plugs on direct injection diesels.

Definitely a positive visual aid to... is there or is there not power to the plugs. Do you trust the computer to do its thing on a 30 year old truck ???

Miss seeing the light and 45 seconds later...Time to buy glow plugs.

Here's the inside of a customers controller. States trouble starting. Had the truck for a while and never started right. Only 11 K miles, Looks brand new. Went to check on the controller box and sent this to us. True story.


Ditch the box, Camo at Camoteksystems.

 

[cjd]

Interesting...thanks for the info. I was fortunate to get a southern Cali desert truck with only 120 miles. The biggest problem so far is desert sand in everything...

 

[jake20]

YES, if you connect a lamp to one of the actual glow plug wires you will see what is actually happening at the glow plug, the wait light actually means nothing.
If working correctly you will see the light lit at the same time the wait light is lit, then when the wait light goes out you will see the glow plug receive pulses for another minuet or two this is called "afterglow"

Many times if you cycle the run switch incorrectly or your wait light just flashes and goes out you will still see the controller sending afterglow pulses to the glow plugs, even if relatively cold if you wait for 30 seconds or so of afterglow the plugs will be hot enough and the engine will start.

And of course if you see a steady glow plug light after the wait light goes out it is time to turn off the batteries as the controller is about to fry the plugs.

This would be the very first mod I would make to any HMMWV except my Duramax as I don't use glow plugs on direct injection diesels.

When you say this: " And of course if you see a steady glow plug light after the wait light goes out it is time to turn off the batteries as the controller is about to fry the plugs. "

Do you mean putting the switch into the off position? Or running around to the other side of the truck and yanking a battery cable? I presume the former but I haven't quite dug into electrical diagrams on these yet.

Sidenote: Are you using any special lamp? Or just a 24V LED / Incandescent? I was thinking 24V LED, positive to glowplug wire, negative to frame/engine block.

 

[diesel_dave]

When you say this: " And of course if you see a steady glow plug light after the wait light goes out it is time to turn off the batteries as the controller is about to fry the plugs. "

Do you mean putting the switch into the off position? Or running around to the other side of the truck and yanking a battery cable? I presume the former but I haven't quite dug into electrical diagrams on these yet.

Sidenote: Are you using any special lamp? Or just a 24V LED / Incandescent? I was thinking 24V LED, positive to glowplug wire, negative to frame/engine block.

He means if the glow plug ON light stays illuminated longer than the normal cycle time, there was a failure internal to the PCB and now the glow plugs are stuck on. If you don't immediately disconnect the batteries, the glow plugs will be destroyed. Just be careful if that condition occurs because there will be a bunch of sparks when pulling off the battery terminal due to all the current flowing. If you have a battery disconnect switch installed, you can just use that of course.

 

[jake20]

He means if the glow plug ON light stays illuminated longer than the normal cycle time, there was a failure internal to the PCB and now the glow plugs are stuck on. If you don't immediately disconnect the batteries, the glow plugs will be destroyed. Just be careful if that condition occurs because there will be a bunch of sparks when pulling off the battery terminal due to all the current flowing. If you have a battery disconnect switch installed, you can just use that of course.

Alright perfect thanks for confirming. Yea a battery disconnect may be a nice to have then. I'll have to look into this.

 

[TOBASH]

Get rid of PCB and make a bypass box. That eliminates the issue.

I made a bypass box well over a year ago and I haven’t looked back. My glow plugs are functioning properly and they cannot get stuck in the “ON” position.

Post #51 shows how to make the box:

How to bypass PCB? I am aware some HMMWV owners have done it. TOBASH

good to know, I have fixed my location... Then why is your IP resolving to a different state?

www.steelsoldiers.com

Box created with the help and significant contributions of an St So friend.

 

[Mogman]

When you say this: " And of course if you see a steady glow plug light after the wait light goes out it is time to turn off the batteries as the controller is about to fry the plugs. "

Do you mean putting the switch into the off position? Or running around to the other side of the truck and yanking a battery cable? I presume the former but I haven't quite dug into electrical diagrams on these yet.

Sidenote: Are you using any special lamp? Or just a 24V LED / Incandescent? I was thinking 24V LED, positive to glowplug wire, negative to frame/engine block.

If you get a steady light attached to the glow plug after the wait light goes out the first thing of course is to turn the run switch off, it the light persist then run around the truck and turn off the oversized battery switch that you should have installed.
Yes any 24V panel lamp will do, glow plugs are positive.