Designing Audio System for 24V

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quantumspores

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Hi Folks,

I'm starting to build an audio system for the Vee (M998 ). This is the first time i've built an audio system for a 24V vehicle. Does the attached diagram make sense? Basically I was going to pull power off the ignition to a 24-12V transformer into the stereo and do a direct wire for the memory to a single battery (which should pull only 12V?). Then pull from both batteries to a 24-12V transformer into the amp.

HV_audio_system.jpg
I'm very open to suggestions on the best way to make this work!

Thanks Much
 

Milcommoguy

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Replace transformer (or the word) with DC to DC converter. Going to need a slave relay to save the contacts of the high amperage pull thru ignition switch. Not sure why you would need two converters? As shown how do you turn off the second one connecter to the power amplifier.

Transformers couple AC voltages / pulses only, CAMO
 

quantumspores

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Replace transformer (or the word) with DC to DC converter. Going to need a slave relay to save the contacts of the high amperage pull thru ignition switch. Not sure why you would need two converters? As shown how do you turn off the second one connecter to the power amplifier.

Transformers couple AC voltages / pulses only, CAMO
Sure, DC to DC converter or step-down transformer find the same thing on amazon 😀.

The amplifier is turned off and on via the “remote” wire from the stereo. You have to wire it direct to the battery (or to a capacitor attached directly to the battery).

I need to have one power source that is only on when the vehicle is on (ignition) and a separate battery connection for the amp. If I used the same converter both would be always on because of the direct battery connection.

I do have an 80amp relay I could put into the ignition line prior to connection to the stereo.

thanks
 

G3isMe

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I just finished my stereo installation. I purchased and installed a $50 24 to 12 volt converter. And that way you don't have to mess with going through the ignition switch, you just have to remember to turn off the stereo when you turn off the truck. It works great. I installed a marine grade stereo and a marine enclosure. I found an AM FM CD USB and NOAA Weather stereo made by Dual on sale for $35 online.

I also have a bazooka subwoofer with integral amp. It's wired to the remote on the stereo and if you turn off the stereo that also turns off power to the remote and hence the subwoofer.
 

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papakb

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Gentlemen, why go through the hassle of doing the 24 to 12 volt conversion when there are 24v radios and amplifiers on the market.? One of the problems I see with novice electricians is their misunderstanding of how electrical systems work. Running 12 volt wiring around a 24 volt truck can lead to serious failures if done incorrectly. Wire routing and insulation need to be done right to avoid problems.
 

G3isMe

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Gentlemen, why go through the hassle of doing the 24 to 12 volt conversion when there are 24v radios and amplifiers on the market.? One of the problems I see with novice electricians is their misunderstanding of how electrical systems work. Running 12 volt wiring around a 24 volt truck can lead to serious failures if done incorrectly. Wire routing and insulation need to be done right to avoid problems.
While I agree with your concerns about wire routing and insulation, I don't think one needs to a certified electrician to install and use a 24 to 12 volt converter. In addition, the selection of 24 volt stereos and amps is not remotely close to the 12 volt counterpart. Futhermore, a person my already own a 12 volt stereo and would like to be able to reuse it in their Hmmwv. This would be impossible to do without a converter.
 

simp5782

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or simply swap the alternator for a 12/24 unit then run whatever you want in 12v. 24v rectifier isnt weak and would do fine
 

G3isMe

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just use a bluetooth speaker with your smartphone avoid the wiring issue. When it rains then you will see the light.
Hahaa, there is some truth to that. I didn't mention that I am dealing with rain incursion as well, waterproofing and replacing all of my seals on my vehicle. These trucks were originally filled with electronics so they must have been waterproof at some time in their life. But just in case she decides to develop some new leaks it is the reason why I went with a marine grade system and a marine enclosure.
 

Coug

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Hahaa, there is some truth to that. I didn't mention that I am dealing with rain incursion as well, waterproofing and replacing all of my seals on my vehicle. These trucks were originally filled with electronics so they must have been waterproof at some time in their life. But just in case she decides to develop some new leaks it is the reason why I went with a marine grade system and a marine enclosure.
Nah, the trucks were never waterproof, the electronics they put inside were.

I remember talking to a tanker once. Everything on the inside of the tank was waterproof. If someone would forget to seal the top hatch they might find their tank filled with water the next time they went to check on it, as filling up the inside was a good way to teach a tank crew to not be sloppy and seal it properly when not in use. (draining the tank apparently required someone to go inside of it and dive to find the drain valve)
 

Inspector 1

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Here is my blue tooth system. Kicker marine speakers to include water tight enclosures. A Polk 500 watt water proof marine amplifier / 125 watts per speaker mounted to rear of speaker enclosure. This system far surpassed my expectations on loudness and clarity. Its awesome!! Not cheep at about $1500.00.
 

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G3isMe

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Nah, the trucks were never waterproof,..... (draining the tank apparently required someone to go inside of it and dive to find the drain valve)
Hahaaa.. . well maybe water "resistant" then. ..;)
 

G3isMe

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The Army version of "waterproof" is that the truck won't get damaged by water. Comfort isn't even in the top 10 considerations they look for in equipment.
Exactly. Worked for the government for twenty + years and that is an understatement. ... raincoats are cheap.
 
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Nah, the trucks were never waterproof, the electronics they put inside were.

I remember talking to a tanker once. Everything on the inside of the tank was waterproof. If someone would forget to seal the top hatch they might find their tank filled with water the next time they went to check on it, as filling up the inside was a good way to teach a tank crew to not be sloppy and seal it properly when not in use. (draining the tank apparently required someone to go inside of it and dive to find the drain valve)
that is no lie, this is why when you come across a motor pool of M1's or M2's they are tarp up. Still till this day when my HMMWV is parked its tarped up. The only time a military vehicle is water proof when its not raining until the wash rack.
 

patracy

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Use a single buck converter for the 24 to 12v transition. Just size appropriately for your total amperage draw including the amplifier. Or use a batter equalizer (more expensive, but can handle much more amperage). For your ignition on circuit, simply pull a lead off the 24V + and use it to power a 24v solenoid. From that use 12v from your stepped down voltage bus attached to the com terminal of the relay. Then the other to the NO terminal. The power draw of the memory shouldn't adversely affect the batteries in the HMMWV, especially if you routinely drive it. The military tapped off the 12v side to power the TCM anyhow. (It's a low draw as well) One other recommendation is to add ferrites to your power input. The military alternators are electrically noisy in my experience.
 
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