• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Deuce 24 volt accessories power supply

Boatcarpenter

New member
1,877
17
0
Location
Marlborough, NH
If any of you have several 24 volt add on accessories in your truck, could you please post up how you supplied them with power. Did you tap into existing feeds, add a dedicated terminal block with either a breaker or fuses, just keeping tapping the #10 wire(I think)or any other method. Am looking for suggestions for a nice clean, safe method for installing mostly in cab accessories or outside spots. Most would be dedicated circuits, powered up individually, not hot when something else is turned on. Also, sometimes I see items powered with a two contact female connector(looks to be anyway) but have never seen the matching connector that it plugs into. Anyone know what I am talking about with pics? I'll see if I can come up with a pic also.
Thanks,
BC
 

cranetruck

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,350
77
48
Location
Meadows of Dan, Virginia
The feed to the horn circuit breaker comes from the battery. I have several additional circuit breakers added from that same feed for some features, like the headlight by pass switch.
For the intercom and a point of load, 24 to 12 volt power supply (for the CB and a fuel temp gauge), I use the MX7777, which is shown in the image below. It has its own on/off switch.
 

Attachments

Boatcarpenter

New member
1,877
17
0
Location
Marlborough, NH
Okay, adding to the horn circuit sounds like a good way. Loop on another breaker and then feed an item or two depending on draw. Breakers would mount on engine side of firewall. I have a MX-7777 installedl which I could use also. Could you please post a pic or reference to what you use as a point load 24 to 12 reducer.
Thanks,
BC
 

cranetruck

Moderator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
10,350
77
48
Location
Meadows of Dan, Virginia
Boatcarpenter said:
.....Could you please post a pic or reference to what you use as a point load 24 to 12 reducer.
Thanks,
BC
Right, it's a "self issued" 35Watt 24 to 12 volt linear regulator, built from scrap parts. It is difficult to build them economically in small quantities, so if anybody wanted one, I'd have to charge $35 or so, it is fully encapsualted.
The input can vary from about 14 to 30 volts with a constant 12 volt output.

For the power connector in your next post, do a google search for "MS-connector" and look for suppliers.
 

Attachments

readyman

Member
523
7
18
Location
Elk Grove Village, Illinois
The timing is pretty good I just finished this up last week.

I had an AN/VSS3 searchlight for the roof, the UH-48 heater, a remote spotlight, a center console with the comms, remote electric T&E for the M66 gun ring. So whaddya gonna do?
:idea:
There's a guy on Ebay(right now) with $12 receptacles, so I went to town and welded up a metal box for 'em. A 24V power strip on steroids is what I ended up with, sits in the cab or wherever the slave cable gets it to. :)
There's another Ebay guy with brand new plug/cable assemblies($). The old 2 pin slave cable ones. :D

So anyway, there's a heavy cable assembly from the batteries that feeds the power strip in the cab. The rest of the 'accessories' plug into the hd 'power strip'. Using all Mil-Spec connectors.
The 12V converter and CB are in the 'jump seat' center console. (Still under construction)
 

Attachments

readyman

Member
523
7
18
Location
Elk Grove Village, Illinois
Oh yeah, and not like it's ever gonna happen, but...

the next time I'm using the small Remote Control Spotlight, to find targets to illuminate with the AN/VSS3 Tank Searchlight, to get a bead on with the Remote Control M2HB T&E on the gun ring, while talking on the CB radio and heating up food in the electric MRE heater, all in the comfort of the UH-48 heated deuce cab... I'll be ready.
rofl
 

Boatcarpenter

New member
1,877
17
0
Location
Marlborough, NH
RE: Really the invertor to mount

Bjorn, thank you. Very helpful as usual :D
readyman, you are absolutely correct, that is the mother of all power strips :shock: A little more robust than I had in mind and would take up a lot of space with the radio, intercom etc. already installed in the cab of the Deuce. But interesting set up and certainly will keep it in mind.
halftrack, nice unit, but at the moment I don't have any 110 volt items to run.
Thanks for the input guys, I love this site :D
BC
 

clinto

Moderator, wonderful human being & practicing Deuc
Staff member
Administrator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
12,596
1,133
113
Location
Athens, Ga.
You could do something like this, one set is for 24 V other is 12V
Those are neato-source?

I am adding some stuff to my A2C and I need to decide where to grab the 24V power for them (reverse lights, some flood lights for night ops, etc.).

Thanks for posting this thread, boatie!
 

212sparky

Well-known member
1,822
38
48
Location
Monroe/ Ohio
let me take some pictures and scan my schematic for my relay board in my truck. I used IDEC relays mounted on DIN rail with each circuit on its own breaker. I have a master relay that comes off the main power switch, keeps me from killing the batteries. Then to actuate my relays i have a piece of series 2000 wire-mold with toggle switches in the side. I have 500 feet of 18/2 control cable and 500 feet of 12/2 circuit wire and 10 feet of 2/0 feeder cable in my system. I am adding a 12 volt alternator this spring for my 12 volt loads.

relays 1.jpgrelays 2.jpgrelays 3.jpgrelays 4.jpg
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks