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Deuce Brake Bleeding question

Mandalore

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So I have talked to a few people about my brake problem and it was suggested to me to check my brake fluid (of course) and bleed my brakes to start. Now I have tried to be good and I checked using the search bar and it seems that everyone has a kit they built to bleed the brakes. Yesterday I was at harbor freight and saw this: http://www.harborfreight.com/brake-bleeder-and-vacuum-pump-kit-69328.html and I was wondering if it would work instead of me building one. Thoughts?
 
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gimpyrobb

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It would work, but whats your time worth?

Oilcan made one that was small enough to fit in a 50cal can. It clipped to a tire chuck for air power to bleed the system. It was nice and compact.
 

clinto

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The reason(s) everyone is telling you that one sucks is as follows:

1. It uses vacuum to pull the brake fluid out of the bleeder, versus using pressure to push it through. I have an ancient Vacula setup and I never use it anymore. Pressure bleeding is where it's at.

2. Your hand would be sore for 6 months using that thing. 6 wheel cylinders and probably 30' of brake line to flush and bleed? You'd have to pump that thing 14,000 times to get it done.

3. You can buy the kit from Motive Power (that's what I have) or you can build one out of a $20 pesticide sprayer from Horror Freight/Home Cheapo/Blowes, etc. I doubt I have more than $50 in my setup and I can do both the deuce single circuit master cylinder, the 1987-1989 USAF dual circuit trucks, the M44A3 and the M39/M809 series 5 tons. Heck, my bleeder works on my 1942 GPW and my old '55 M38A1.

My old Vacula: Sold under it's own brand and rebranded by all the major tool companies (Snap-on, Mac, etc.) Uses compressed air to create vaccum. Problem is that it just can't pull brake fluid through the system like pressure can push. But it's better than nothing I guess and it is a one man operation.

vacula1.jpg

What I have now, Note that these pictures depict bleeding on an M38A1, but it's the same for Deuce. I have since collected up master cylinder caps for all the popular stuff (Jeeps, Deuce, etc.) so I just grab whatever cap I need and I'm ready to bleed. My new company car Civic is the only thing I own that isn't DOT5 BFS.

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Mandalore

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Ok thank you. I am looking at the webpage for motive products now. Which one do I need? I see there are some for ford, GM and Euro

Sorry Im new to this. This is my first truck and I am using it as a learning truck. In years past I have done basic work on the normal everyday driver vehicles I have had. So this big thing intimidates me a little because I dont want to screw it up to bad.
 

clinto

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Ok thank you. I am looking at the webpage for motive products now. Which one do I need? I see there are some for ford, GM and Euro

Sorry Im new to this. This is my first truck and I am using it as a learning truck. In years past I have done basic work on the normal everyday driver vehicles I have had. So this big thing intimidates me a little because I dont want to screw it up to bad.
I looked all over their site and I don't see the model I bought-I could have sworn I just bought a universal bleeder with the quick disconnect already on it-I looked in my email to see if I had a receipt or a part # for my model and came up zero. If I were you, I'd call or email them and tell them you're doing a military vehicle that doesn't require any of their master cylinder adapters and that you just need a basic bleeder with a quick disconnect on the end of the hose.

Unless you want to convert your civilian vehicles to DOT5-in that case, order the bleeder that will work with your vehicle and modify the end of the hose to work with your vehicle's adapter and your deuce adapter.
 

hndrsonj

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There is a generic one that doesn't have the adapter. IIRC it's on the parts page.
 

Warthog

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I have built many bleeders. $10 for the sprayer and less than $10 for the fittings and hose at the hardware store. Seems like I loan them out and they never return. Nothing fancy. My first one I built I put quick disconnects and a pressure gauge. It was nice. The rest where KISS.
 

The King Machine

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You must be careful when using a power bleeder, you can over pressurize the top end of the master cylinder and fold a seal over. You will then need to pull it and rebuild. I did it twice before I realized my mistake.
I just do it the old fashion way now.

Also you should add a remote reservoir, very cheap and a good upgrade. Allows you to keep a close eye on fluid levels and you can gravity bleed it then too.
 

Mandalore

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Right now I just need to get the truck road worthy so I can use it to haul stuff to and from the hardware store to my house/ family's houses. A few more months and I am going to purchase the disc brake conversion kits and try to rework the brake system to a more friendly system. Friendly for me anyways
 

VPed

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How often do you really need to bleed the brakes anyway. is there a tm page?
Never/rarely on a good brake system. The TM 9-2320-209-20-3-2 includes the bleeding instructions starting on page 120. I do not think it specifies a routine time interval though. A spongy brake pedal is the symptom that indicates bleeding is called for. If a brake pedal travels almost to the floor but then feels firm, a brake adjustment is warranted. A brake pedal that goes to the floor means you need significant brake work.
 

Mandalore

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20150605_204338.jpg

Anyone have a clue what these are for? found them in the back of my truck. The idaho forest service had thrown alot of stuff in the back before selling it to me. I dont think these go to my truck but figured I would double check and see. I figure they go to some kind of small car.
 
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