Deuce Brake Line Question

[DHennon]

Here are my questions:

1. I am replacing all the brake lines on my deuce. I also am replacing all wheel cylinders, seals and repacking wheel bearing. I purchased several pre-bent brake lines from White Owl. I will bend up the ones they did not have. BTW, White Owl was the only source I could find that had any in stock. Classic Tube will bend up lines if you send the old ones. I did not want to wait. I bought two 1/4" X 30" straight steel brake line from NAPA to bend up for the two lines for the driver side front and rear axle. The tag on the brake line indicate they are standard flare. I am somewhat suspect of their counter man as he said the brake lines were aluminum ( a magnet sticks to them, and he sold me a double-flareing tool for a 3/16" line and said it would work OK, it would just hold the tubing more securely!) Oh well, I got that corrected, and will use another NAPA store! The new brake lines do have the correct fittings though.
These lines do not have the spiral wound or steel coil on them. Will they work OK?

Question 2. Iam removing the steel brake line running along the driver side frame rail to a junction block located just before the air pack. It has 2 frame clamps securing it to the frame rail. One is between the frame rail and the outboard air tank. It looks as if the only way to get to the nut holding the clamp is to remove the air tanks. Have any of you had to remove that brake line? I have a cargo deuce so going over the top of the frame rail is not an option.

Your comments please.

Thanks!

 

[Clay James]

I just did this job. For the brake lines I bought the 30" and one of the shorter ones and coupled them for the long line on the frame to the rear axles. Didn't do the front hard line since it didn't look rusty. The back was really rusty so it had to go.

The front clamp behind the tanks was a PITA to do. I got a wrench in there and went on the outside to unbolt it and let the frame be my soldier B to hold the wrench. Getting it back on was hard too. I taped the nut onto the wrench and managed to get it threaded again. They will surely be rusty so it's really tight the whole way off.

 

[DHennon]

Thanks for the fast response. That was ingenious. That is one of the many reasons I like the SS site.

 

[m16ty]

The NAPA guy is an idiot. I've never seen a AL brake line and a 3/16" flaring tool won't work on 1/4" line.

The spiral wire does help on chaffing but it's not mandatory.