Deuce brakes locking up.

[dslucas]

Ok guys. Thank you very much for your help and advice. After it warmed up a little bit...I fired it up today and it broke loose. Still not sure exactly what the problem was but since the pedal was so stiff I am leaning towards it being the airpack or master cylinder. I have the rebuild kit now...it arrived today so if the weather will clear up a bit this weekend I will try to rebuild the Airpack. Am also considering installing an air dryer after the compressor so if any of you have any recommendations I'd sure Luke to heat them. Again...thanks for the advice.

 

[rosco]

Now that the truck is rolling, you can still add alchohol (sp), to the compressor line - it will have some residual effects. A snifter works just as well as an air drier, and is much less complicated to install. It will keep the water a liquid, so that the tanks can be drained. There is an air line antifreeze, but Heet works too.

 

[dslucas]

Yeah..I was wondering about that. My Dad was a trucker for years. He suggested that they actually make an airline antifreeze for air brakes. I wasn't sure about using it with air over hydraulic thinking it might be hard on the seals in the airpack. Is it safe to use that stuff on a deuce?

 

[rustystud]

Yeah..I was wondering about that. My Dad was a trucker for years. He suggested that they actually make an airline antifreeze for air brakes. I wasn't sure about using it with air over hydraulic thinking it might be hard on the seals in the airpack. Is it safe to use that stuff on a deuce?

The methanol used is not good for the seals in the air-pac. I would go with a Bendix AD-9 air-dryer. Much cheaper in the long run to use. You only have to change out the desiccant every 3 years, and the cost is only $60.00 (includes the spitter valve) . You can find AD-9 units for about $200.00 .

 

[dslucas]

Not a bad price for the heartache they save. Is that the 24v electric one?

 

[dslucas]

OK....Deuce is still down waiting on an air pack rebuild...and I still need to get back and forth to work. Then it occurred to me, that when I bought this truck with 395s, that one way or another I would NOT get stuck in snow with these tires lol......

 

[rustystud]

Not a bad price for the heartache they save. Is that the 24v electric one?

Yes. They come 12 or 24 volt.

 

[rustystud]

OK....Deuce is still down waiting on an air pack rebuild...and I still need to get back and forth to work. Then it occurred to me, that when I bought this truck with 395s, that one way or another I would NOT get stuck in snow with these tires lol......
View attachment 543947

Now that is one way to use your 395's !!! Remember to think out of the box !

 

[rosco]

Yeah..I was wondering about that. My Dad was a trucker for years. He suggested that they actually make an airline antifreeze for air brakes. I wasn't sure about using it with air over hydraulic thinking it might be hard on the seals in the airpack. Is it safe to use that stuff on a deuce?

The Arctic Winterization Kit that is made for theses trucks, with fuel fired heaters, etc, comes with an alcohol snifter. You should be able to find one, for not much.

 

[dslucas]

Well...been awhile since I had a chance to work on this. Replaced the air pack with a brand new one. Still doing the same thing. Bled the brakes with all new fluid. Last year it was doing it any time it got below about 27 degrees. I guess the only thing I can do is replace the master cylinder?

 

[whatadeuce]

What is a gladhand?

 

[dslucas]

It's the connector that semis use for air brakes on a trailer. The Deuce has two of them in the back next to the pintle hitch. I mostly use mine for running an air hose as a compressor.

 

[whatadeuce]

Did you say that your air pressure is at 80 psig? Does you guage read reliable? If you are over pressure, it will backfeed through the airpack, and apply pressure to the brakes as if you applied pressure to the brake foot pedal. Doghead gave the test to see if the airpack is working, but if the compressor pressure is higher than 80 psig, even with a new airpack, the brakes are out of control

 

[dslucas]

Definitely at 80psig. Plugged another guage into the system to verify. I can see this happening if the brakes just locked up tight. That being said, it locks up both directions hit and miss. Either it locks the brakes fully engaged and truck won't move, or it locks the brakes disengaged and the truck won't stop.

 

[cucvmule]

Yikes! Did you get a chance to get dryer install?

It sounds like rubber brake hose collapse?

 

[dslucas]

I have an alcohol sniffter installed immediately after the compressor. I don't get any ice when I drain the tanks. Since it only happens below 27 degrees I'm pretty sure it's a water problem somewhere freezing. Just can't figure out where. Something is freezing enough to lock up the brake pedal. Leaning towards somehow having ice forming in the master cylinder. Will update of I find it.

 

[rustystud]

Definitely at 80psig. Plugged another guage into the system to verify. I can see this happening if the brakes just locked up tight. That being said, it locks up both directions hit and miss. Either it locks the brakes fully engaged and truck won't move, or it locks the brakes disengaged and the truck won't stop.

If this is happening every time the temperature falls below freezing then it is a water problem. Have you totally bled out the entire system ? You need to totally replace all the brake fluid. Does your system still use DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluid, or has it been converted to DOT 3 brake fluid ? Remember DOT 3 fluid will "hold" water in suspension, while DOT 5 will separate it out. Then it will collect in the lowest part of the brake system. Normally DOT 5 is easy to fix. Just bled out until the water is gone. DOT 3 needs to be totally replaced. In your case now though I would totally bleed out every thing. Then you will know for a fact there is no water in the fluid.
Now if there is water present in your fluid then you have another problem to think about. The brake lines have been exposed to water for several years now. That means you have an extremely high chance of rust in your brake lines. It will not heal itself either. You will need to replace the brake lines. Since you cannot determine where the rust is, that means "all" the lines should be replaced. I know, what a pain in the A$$ !!! This is a "safety" problem though. Having experienced a brake line failure during driving I can assure you, your not thinking of the money you saved by not repairing the brake lines ! Your thinking am I going to meet "GOD" today ?

 

[dslucas]

It's completely dot 5 brake fluid. Good info on dot 3 vs dot 5 separating out the water. I'm now thinking water is pooled in the bottom of the master cylinder. I'm going to bleed again completely. Also going to start on brake lines after this problem is resolved. Could not agree more with the safety factor. When the brakes locked open on me, I couldn't stop a couple of years ago and ran right out onto the highway. God was with me that day. No cross traffic. I haven't driven the Deuce below freezing since then for that very reason. Not going to take a chance on a rusted brake line. I'll just run all new stainless.

 

[cucvmule]

You know rusty I typed that all out and thought with dot 5 how could there be rust and canceled. But then You reminded me of the Human Factor. I think now I would pull the master cylinder and replace, period. Could be sucking water in caps or seals.

 

[whatadeuce]

Did you say " stainless"
? Wow, what an option. I shall ask my vendor if he has this available.