Deuce broke down today

[redrocket78]

To start with, I have a 71 m35 a 2 w/w. multifuel.So I was on my way home from my buddy's shop today and I heard a noise that sounded like metal on metal. I was inconsistent. Not wind, not rotating, not bounce induced. Finally it got worse and I pulled over. The water pump pulley was roaming all over the place and the fan blade was contacting the generator pulley. What to do? I drained a gallon of ant freeze into a container. Then removed the upper radiator hose and disconnected the brace that holds the radiator to the engine. Pulled the fan bolts and took the fan off the pulley. Put the bolts back in. Fired up the deuce and hoped for the best. It was 8 miles to the house. About 1 mile left I started to smell anti freeze, the engine was not overheating so I said F it I'll make it. The water pump dumped fluid out for the remainder of the trip. All is good. The truck is in the drive way. My buddy says. "can't you rebuild those things?". Good question. So here I am. Do they make rebuild kits? If so do I even waste my time with them or just get a new one?
Thanks.

 

[DieselBob]

Not sure if a rebuild kit is available. My choice would be a fresh USA made pump.

 

[redrocket78]

That's what I was thinking. I didn't know if they made one or not.

 

[redrocket78]

Update on the water pump. I ordered the new one and removed the old one today. The bearings came out in many many pieces. No biggie. The problem is the housing the water pump sits in has a ring in it that the impeller sits close to got hit. It was ground down a little bit but not much. How critical is the clearance on this? Is a few hundredths of an inch going to make a difference or not. I'll post a pic in a minute.

 

[67 evil eleanor]

I would think not much at all if it's from the impeller tips to the housing. That's my backwoods guess.

 

[gungearz]

Also the same backwoods guess... I don't think a few thousandths would matter for that tolerance. As long as its torqued to the TMs specs....

 

[joshs1ofakindxj]

If it's cast iron you'll probably have to live with it. If it is steel I would weld it up and dress it flat again. Blade tip clearance directly effects efficiency.

I've managed the repairs of a few industrial air compressors. If they were just a few thousands extra clearance on the blade tips the compressor would run like crap. This isn't nearly as precision, but a few HUNDREDTHS of thousands is significant.

 

[redrocket78]

Thanks. It is cast iron. Off to the TM's

 

[rosco]

Hey Rocket

Vertually all water pumps are re-buildable! I have played with them, over the years. Like in Ag Tractors, they routinely re-build them. Backwoods guestimation.... there are only a couple main sizes of the sealed water pump bearing, and shaft. You cut the shaft to length. Take your old shaft and stuff, to a John Deere dealer, that has a good shop and parts store. The trick is to come up with the shaft seal. The bearing assembly is easier. My Guess is, that when you come up with an ag tractor (about 80's vintage, 150 hp), you will have a water pump re-build kit that fits a Deuce. Then all you need is a press to put it back together.

As far as the worn housing in your pump, mostly follow the instructions in the rebuild kit, but press the impeller out on the shaft, to match the amount of xtra wear in the housing.

 

[SCSG-G4]

Try the AG store for sure. The same block was used in the White and Oliver brand farm tractors, If I remember correctly the 135 and 150 models. Differences were a max of 2200 rpm under load, and 17:1 compression ratio - expected life between rebuilds was 8,000 to 15,000 hours for the engine as a whole.

 

[redrocket78]

Wow this site has a plethora of knowledge. Thanks guys.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I probably have a take-off somewhere if your worried about it. I wouldn't be though.

 

[o1951]

The impeller is definitely shot. The housing looks (picture can be deceiving) like well over 100 thousandths worn away. This causes internal slip, allowing coolant to flow back - cuts efficiency and coolant volume to engine. There may be enough flow to keep engine cool - maybe not. Under hard use in hot weather, may be a problem. Personally, I don't like to take chances on overheating engines - too much $$$$ to repair. I would find out how much Gimpy wants. Failing that, measure how much was worn away and machine off almost the same amount from the pump mounting surface to try and get the new impeller blades as close to the housing as they should be. Check final fit with plastigauge.

 

[JasonS]

Try the AG store for sure. The same block was used in the White and Oliver brand farm tractors, If I remember correctly the 135 and 150 models. Differences were a max of 2200 rpm under load, and 17:1 compression ratio - expected life between rebuilds was 8,000 to 15,000 hours for the engine as a whole.

Most of the tractor forums that I have read report ~4000 hours.

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[WILDBOY6X6]

pump

beltfed34 try this ebay seller,if the shaft hole is to far out of round its junk.

 

[Stretch44875]

Don't use the tractor water pump housing, they are different. The impeller may be the same.

 

[redrocket78]

Got a hold of the surplus company I am getting the water pump from. Getting the housing used for 75.00. Not taking any chances. Thanks again for the input everyone.
Chad.