deuce cab air conditioning

[OPCOM]

Now that summer is here..
http://www.rdac.com/Pages/product_pages/units_pages/9727_unit.html

It needs an external compressor, but at 22000 BTU, it is alot more powerful that the typical 15000 BTU 120VAC operated rooftop unit.

The forward-facing intake on the Red Dot condenser also is a boon to those with an M109 or a shelter, because the highway-speed air pressure at the back of the cab is quite high due to the 'brick' effect and maybe I am wrong bu the pressure might resist the rearward flow of the condenser air on RV type units. Any opinions or experience on this subject?

What is the opinion of belt-drives for an a/c compressor? I know a few people here have done very nice work in this respect. How is the compressor best driven? dual-pulley using the alternator belts? One belt and an add-on pulley sonewhere?

 

[TheBuggyman]

OPCOM,
I just added a/c to my track loader using RedDot's evaporator and remote condenser. (a little different than what is in the picture) In my opinion on a truck I would put a condenser for the a/c in front of the radiator. You can get these at Jegs alot cheaper than the RedDot stuff. I've been thinking of adding a/c to my M813 since the loader project is done. I set the EPR (or CPR, I'm not sure which) to get a 25psi return pressure and chill the air down even more and it works great!
RedDot also has a hydraulic driven compressor, FYI. But with the proper control valve it is about $900.

I added my condenser to the back of the cab and painted it all Cat yellow.

 

[redass73]

nice install. looks great. enclosed cab with air is the only way to operate

 

[TheBuggyman]

nice install. looks great. enclosed cab with air is the only way to operate

Thank you, it was alot of work! Having a conditioned cab lets me keep the concentration level up where it needs to be!

 

[OPCOM]

Buggyman, that is a real nice job there. I'll have to look at Jeg's.

How many BTU is the unit you have installed there?

My wish is to break the 15000 BTU barrier of RV units, and step up to about 20,000+. It can be done with a good sized compressor, but I am let to believe that the deuce's slow-turning engine will need a compressor with a larger displacement or a smaller pulley to achieve the higher BTUs.

I have no objection to putting the condenser in front of the radiator, but was enticed by the all-in-one Red Dot unit.

The biggest chore will be the compressor mount, as I have very limited tooling. Taking a detour from Jeg's compressor page, I found the Sanden compressor page.

 

[TheBuggyman]

I used the R-2000-6-24 headliner A/C rated at 17k btu's and the R-9720-3-24 remote mount condenser with drier and shock mounts rated at 30k btu's. My compressor is rated at 24k btu's which varies on rpm and metering device flow rate. Sorry about all the numbers, I can link pages if need be but they are all on RedDot's site.

My reasoning on the large condenser is dirt/debris build up, I do not think that excessive subcooling is an issue with this.

The RedDot stuff is pricey but I am very pleased with the quality, in excess of commercial grade all the way!

I agree with you on trying to get more than 15k btu's into the cab. Have you looked into the backwall or ductable evaporators from them? Seems like they would be a good fit and most are around 17k to 18k btu's. If you go too large on the capacity you will remove sensible heat but not the latent heat which will cause a damp feeling/condition in the truck.

The compressor in my loader is on a 3304 Cat diesel that I usually run below high idle (1800 to 2000 rpm) and the output is very good. Pulley is standard on the crank and compressor, I would imagine that you would be fine.

Try here: http://www.autoacsystems.com/
Alot of good info and help on 134-a mobile systems.

I hope this helps, maybe in a few months I can get to work on my M813 A/C also! Sure would be nice to have a defroster that really works!

 

[OPCOM]

Thanks!

 

[devilman96]

A note on forward mounted condensers on the front of the truck, room is a huge issue and I pulled mine due to temp increases. Over the winter it wasn’t too bad but on long hauls I was maintaining 220 non stop, I pulled it as it got hotter and have not had it back on the road due to an oil leak (of all things).

For the compressor I would suggest going inline with the alternator... It’s the simplest mounting location on the engine, anything else is almost impossible to pull off due to the belt routing, fan, depth and clearance issues. Under full loads I had no slippage issues but I am also running a much higher rated top cog belt set up to spare any misery.

I’m hoping I can get the condenser remounted in the next few weeks, the idea of crawling in that cab is not exactly appealing at all right now!!! I may try and utilize a dual fan set up under the bed as there is so much wasted space, is well protected and out of sight... Gonna have to see what direction the wind is going down there first though...

 

[TheBuggyman]

D-Man,
The average high side running pressure of a 134a system is usually 2 to 2-1/2 times outdoor ambient air temp. Typically about 200 to 230 psi. Even at a high of 230 psi the saturated vapor temp is only about 140 degrees f, and even adding 20 degrees of discharge superheat you are only at 160 degrees f on your condenser. I wouldn't imagine that the cooling capacity of the truck was cut so close that you could not add the a/c condenser w/o overheating. I'd check for an overcharge in the a/c or something amiss in the truck's cooling system. Of course I'm assuming that you are using 134a.

You are probably rejecting on the order of 8,000 to 15,000 btu's through that condenser. Perhaps someone could bring to light the average btu rejection of a truck at a certain power level and we could compare the total to the design spec.

 

[wreckerman893]

Not to turn this into a swap meet but the Chemical Shelter trailers I am scrapping out have a huge GM AC compressor on them and the condensors and other related stuff. Check out my previous posts and see if there is anything that might be of use to you for your application.
Before I start cutting up the next one I can send pics and you can see how it is configured. I sold 200 bucks worth of copper alone out of the one trailer I have scrapped.
I would just as soon sell it to a member that needs is as to the scrap man.

 

[OPCOM]

I think Bjorn had posted some calculations about fuel consumption, BTU in the diesel fuel, and we know the HP of the engine within reason. Might be enough to work something up.

 

[devilman96]

You are probably rejecting on the order of 8,000 to 15,000 btu's through that condenser. Perhaps someone could bring to light the average btu rejection of a truck at a certain power level and we could compare the total to the design spec.

Nope... that was with NO AC running what so ever... It simply creates to much of an air dam for hot climate use.

 

[jkelly66]

I was always told when I was in the Army we had air in the trucks me being young and gullible at the time believed what I was told later I found out it was called 455 ..........4 windows open at 55 MPH.

 

[OPCOM]

One hidden place I thought about using for a hidden condenser was opposite the air tanks. There's nothing there but space and if the air was blown down through it, it might work well. I would not face it forward. A grille could protect it from stones etc. Just a thought on it. Most likely i'll have to go with a roof mounted condenser, so may as well do the whole roof mounted package.. (but later.. things cost so much $$ these days)

 

[TIGERFANS2]

for Clinto.........