Ok hears the story thus far.
Yesterday went to start the truck, smelt something hot then all power shut off.
Too much current, or resistance where there should not be resistance.
Checked battery first melted a terminal. Dont know why. Got new terminals and changed the bad ones out.
Poor connection, or way too much current. Or some combination of the two.
Vague so far.
Yes no power any where. Where dose the POS cable go to
So what your really saying is that you have no idea if there's power anywhere, but something is not allowing the electrical components you have examined to function. Electricity is systematic. If you don't approach it as such, it'll drive you bonkers. Electricity is dirt simple. Circuits are misunderstood, often feared, and should not be. It's here nor there at this time because you will answer your own question shortly and having the answer won't change a thing.
Anyhow, the tip for this statement- When you process a symptom like this in your head, don't say "I've got no power" when you have no idea. Instead, start with "Nothing electrical will work correctly" and consider how the whole system works. To loose function in EVERYTHING... Multiple failures happen, but if you lost EVERYTHING, the problem will involve a common link. That just ruled out 70 percent of the possibilities, and 90 percent of the wires on the truck.
{QUOTE=redthegreendog;667441]OK new issue. went to slave the truck off with my M211. when i connected the cables the M211 dies. and yes the switch was off in the M35. I think its a ground problem. Or is my starter gone.
has any one had this problem before.[/QUOTE]
Here is a good step towards your answer. It's been proven over and over again that an vehicle with dead batteries can be started with slave cables. For lack of more information, I'll ASSUME for a second that all is in good order with the 211 and it's batteries are in "good" or better condition. (If not, do speak up because that will invalidate a couple of assumptions).
Here's what I have-
Something is drawing WAY too much current. More than dead batteries will draw. It was enough to burn up an "at least working but probably good" battery connection.
It was enough to drag down the voltage of a couple of good batteries and a generator to a point where a gas engine ceased to function. That's a BIG draw.
It's intermittant. When that much current passes through an accidental connection, it tends to become permanent. Parts weld together. Copper doesn't stick to steel well, it's not a guarantee but with that much current, it should be somewhere in your mind.
Without activating anything, the current path was still present when you hooked up the 211. It's nothing on the ground side. Everything is off, and there is STILL a current path. The M35 is a negative ground system, so it's on the positive side.
The starter was not running at the time of the last failure, nor did it engage. Once it's engaged, it can stick for sure, but if it wasn't engaged it's almost preclusive (never say never) for it to fail in an electrically closed circuit. For now you can rule that out.
Once the main battery wire "splits" at it's junction, the wires become smaller. Few (if any) will support the load electrical load that you are describing without being destroyed. At the very least, evidence of excessive heat will show it's self.
I'm going to say that if you start your investigation at the positive post of the high battery and follow the wire inch by inch, you will locate your problem. If I'm off, and it's not directly the problem, it (and the subsequent evidence you discover) will be a road map to the root cause of your troubles.
