• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Deuce failure to start

maahes

New member
33
0
0
Location
Lansing/Jackson, MI
I've been beating my head against the truck for over a week now. Still cant make it fire. Hopefully a guru can point out something simple I've overlooked.

Truck is a 71 M35A2, D turbo

Here's the symptoms: 1-5 were all in the same day, prior trips were short and had no issues.
1. Started stalling on clutch-in as the RPMs dropped below 500
2. When starting had to keep idle over 800 RPM or it would stall
3. Starting began taking longer and longer cranking before it would fire.
4. Eventually it would require a small ether hit to start, then as long as the idle was over 800 RPM it would run fine.
5. On the way home it apparently ran out of fuel, I thought there was enough as there was over 5 inches in the tank, added 2 gallons and got it to the gas station for another 20, ran fine the rest of the way home (15 miles)
6. Let it sit overnight and next morning would not fire still, did not try with ether as I was home and not stuck someplace.

Over a week of poking sticks at it here is what I've observed/done:
1. Replaced all 3 fuel filters, found secondary/final were missing parts and were not seating on the top of the enclosure to properly place filter between dirty/clean fuel uptakes. Got replacement parts and re-installed both filters.
2. Air bled system up to HH per the TM and other threads here.
3. Observed fuel returning through return lines to tank
4. Observed good bubble free flow from the bleed valve on top secondary/final filters (4 inch spout)
5. Removed center bolt from HH and observed fuel spout and pencil in the hole moving up and down when cranking but only about 1/4 inch of movement
6. Removed fuel cutoff cable cover and fuel shutoff rod, both moved freely as well as the lower arm that moved to the rear of the engine and sprung back to its original place.
7. Cracked injector lines 1, 5, 6 at injectors and observed fuel exiting lines during cranking
8. Removed all injector lines and observed pooled fuel in all ports on HH except 6 and 2 which appeared dry with considerable rust
9. Removed HH and found clip and small button shaped piece had fallen off bottom of spring mechanism, reattached, cleaned rust from ports 6 and 2, blew air in injector lines to ensure they weren't clogged, re-installed HH and injector lines.
10. Noted sheered nut on fuel shutoff rod (the rod that has the small tooth part that goes into the HH), all parts of the remaining rod appeared tight and moved freely, nut is still held in place by black clip and from wear marks appears to have been this way for awhile
11. Re-assembled all parts and re-bled lines up to HH
12. Charged batteries

Turns over great, no clunking or rough turnovers (not hydro-locked) but still will not fire. There is no smoke out the stack when its cranking, and I observe no fuel leaks. I've read mixed instructions on bleeding the injectors, some posts say do it then others say don't, I leaned toward the cautions "don't" side and only opened the line to see if fuel was actually coming out.

The only thing that didn't look right was #10 but that nut didn't seem to do much as the assembly was tight, however as I don't know allot about diesels Ill leave it to the experts.

Any help is appreciated, I've exhausted what I've found in the TMs and other threads.

On the plus side the GF says my hands are softer than hers from all the diesel!
 

Heath_h49008

New member
1,557
102
0
Location
Kalamazoo/Mich
#8 has me more concerned than #10...

What I'm getting is, the button fell off the HH, and there seems to be rust inside the head on ports 6 and 2... but you tested port 6 and got fuel out of it at the injector..

Am I reading that right?
 

maahes

New member
33
0
0
Location
Lansing/Jackson, MI
I didnt open injector line 2, but when I opened 6 I did get spurts of fuel out when cranked. The rust was more around the threads, but just noted because it was different than the other ports.
 

glcaines

Well-known member
3,915
2,595
113
Location
Hiawassee, Georgia
I would recommend bleeding the injectors, but I don't believe you should need to. Try a little ether and see if it will fire. Make sure you don't overheat the starter. I limit my starter on diesels to about 10 seconds max and then wait about two minutes.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
SOme trucks have issues starting for the first time after have such extensive work done to them. Try one whiff of starting fluid while cranking to get it to fire. Most stay running after that and fire back up on their own. Post up if that doesn't fix things.
 

Heath_h49008

New member
1,557
102
0
Location
Kalamazoo/Mich
You have done your homework from the sounds of it.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/69241-removing-rebuilding-reinstalling-hydraulic-head.html

This is the best thread I have found for detail HH pictures and issues.

It sounds like she lost the button, then lost prime at least. It might be as simple as going step by step again and looking for the issue in the head. Something is missing, maybe something simple. If you pulled the HH to do the button, make certain you aren't 180 off time and don't touch the ether until you verify timing!
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
As long as the truck didn't move during the work, there should be no issues. Try the ether first. Thats a LOT of work to re-do.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
I've been beating my head against the truck for over a week now. Still cant make it fire. Hopefully a guru can point out something simple I've overlooked.
The front, side or back? aua
 

dikwks

Member
237
2
18
Location
Suffolk VA
DH. That ain't right. Funny as all get out, but just not right.:nothingfunny:

As for the OP, Good luck. Hope you get it soon. I get the shakes when I'm down too long.

rick
 

maahes

New member
33
0
0
Location
Lansing/Jackson, MI
The front, side or back? aua
Mostly the underside of the front bumper or driver side fender :|

Truck didn't move and I made sure to put the HH back in with the red scored tooth in the exact same position as I took it out.

I will give it a shot of ether and then try bleeding the injectors if that doesn't work.

Thanks for the help! Not getting shakes yet just getting annoyed that I bought a "runs great ready to drive" deuce and cant drive it!
 

silverstate55

Unemployable
2,075
872
113
Location
UT
I agree with Heath: it might be a problem with the HH. Remove it to check to see if the button fell/broke off the bottom. You don't have to remove the IP to do this (ask me how I know).

Just ensure that the HH is installed in alignment with the rest of the IP & engine...you will have to remove the forward valve cover to ensure TDC (clearance between the rocker arm & pushrod).

Have you pulled your lift pump out of your fuel tank yet, to ensure that the rubber hose on it is OK & that there isn't a bunch of gunk/crap stuck to the intake screen?
 

Emmett

New member
126
1
0
Location
Tampa FL
I would not use ether....there are many products that will get your duece running without beating the **** out of your top end....
Get a can of silicone spray...I use it on a regular basis to get diesels running that have low ICP issues to get them back to the shop.
If you have compression, silicone will work great without the preignition and serious pressures that an unregulated ammount of ether will create.
You are headed on the right track and seem to have done the research.
Keep us updated.
 

maahes

New member
33
0
0
Location
Lansing/Jackson, MI
Picked up some silicone spray and was able to get the engine running for about 3 seconds with it.
I waited 20min and tried again this time giving it a little accelerator pedal and she purrs like a kitten!!! I set the throttle cable at about 800 and let it run for 15 min or so while I went around and looked for leaks and then put the cable back in and slowly took my foot off the accelerator. It started running rough and shaking at 700 RPM and when it dropped to 600 it sputtered and died. Feels exactly like when you pull the fuel cutoff lever.

I checked the screen on the lifter pump and it had some things on the bottom screen but not more than a few pieces of gunk. The rubber hose looks good, no cracks or obvious holes and its still attached.

It still will not start under its own power without silicone/ether.

Heres a video of it sputtering and dying as I letup the accelerator.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wsR5qPn_Qd4[/media]

At least I can get it running now, I feel a little better.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
755
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
I set my idle at about 800-850 to keep from blowing the headlights. Anyway, the truck ran regular before you took it apart? Some that have had rough starting issues report it clears up when they bump the fuel up a few flats.
I hate to say it, but the "button" that you had to re-attach, might have gotten hammered a little and now you might need to adjust fuel settings. Personally, I think you should order a new button and retainer from Ambac just to be on the safe side. I have seen the clips fall back off after I put it back on.

500 is too low of an idle imho.
 
Last edited:

Heath_h49008

New member
1,557
102
0
Location
Kalamazoo/Mich
Have you tried adjusting the droop screw? My only issue with recommending this is it previously ran well at the current droop setting. But, that would seem to be the best way to even out the idle issue until you find the culprit.

I think you're sucking air somewhere upstream of the HH.

Edit: Good point about the button being worn.
 

maahes

New member
33
0
0
Location
Lansing/Jackson, MI
I set my idle at about 800-850 to keep from blowing the headlights. Anyway, the truck ran regular before you took it apart? Some that have had rough starting issues report it clears up when they bump the fuel up a few flats.
I hate to say it, but the "button" that you had to re-attach, might have gotten hammered a little and now you might need to adjust fuel settings. Personally, I think you should order a new button and retainer from Ambac just to be on the safe side. I have seen the clips fall back off after I put it back on.

500 is too low of an idle imho.
The truck was running fine before I stripped the cab (only painted, and fixed cosmetic parts), and after for 2 days of short trips. It was the 3rd day after a longer (30 min of 55mph) that it started stalling.

When I had the button and clip out I checked it carefully for irregular wear marks that looked fresh and I didn't see any. I will pull it back apart tomorrow and see if it fell off again.

Ill then turn the fuel up a bit as recommended to see if it evens out.

I agree 500 is way too low but RPMs don't stop dropping as they should, as other trucks and cars Ive had act with bad idler arms or butterflies. They just keep going down till stall.
 

doghead

4 Star General /Moderator
Staff member
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
26,246
1,179
113
Location
NY
Pull your valve cover and confirm the HH timing 100%.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks