deuce falls on it face on hills

[baxter]

I would agree to turning up the fuel but dont forget the pyro,Id hate for the next post to read how much for a new motor.
Vaughn

 

[paulfarber]

If you run your tires at max psi and your not loaded down all you'll do is wear out the center of the tread faster and make the ride more harsh. On round tread NDT's thats not gonna matter much but if you have a tire with a squared off tread area you need to run the psi so the tread sits flat on the ground. That will get you the best tire wear and ride.

As far as the OP's question about downshifting on uphills the rest of the advice is good.

I don' think you understand what you are saying.

Turning up tire pressure to max rated is not going to do anything you mentioned. If you READ THE M35A2 TMs you MUST INCREASE TIRE PRESSURE TO HANDLE THE 10,000 load RATING APPROVED FOR HARD SURFACE ROADS!!! *GASP* You will run much more than 50PSI!!! *GASP*

The change in ride is BETTER and SMOOTHER. Your tire will not pop when you hit a pothole, nor will the rim burst.

Tire Tech Information - North American Load and Pressure Markings

"It is important to note that the maximum load is rated at an industry specified tire inflation pressure that is often lower then the tire's absolute maximum tire pressure. The tire pressures used to determine the maximum load the tire is rated to carry is based on the sizing system industry standards applied to the tire."


Like the 3000 mile oil change MYTH (started by *GASP* JIFFI LUBE!!!!) this myth of not running at max is full of just plain uninformed people spouting off sales jibberish.


The 3,000 Mile Oil Change Myth and Scam | Money Blue Book

"The 3,000 Mile Myth
The long handed down concept of the 3000 miles oil change was the brain child of Jiffy Lube and propagated by oil industry officials."

If you have proof of a tire blowing becuase it hit a pothole at max pressure, or that GL-5/MT-1 ruins gearboxes, or any of the other common myths, please post. Hint, you don't.

FYI, trailer tires can run over 100psi. Fully loaded. So your 'blow outs' and 'destroyed rims' theory falls flat... they hit the same holes, at a much higher pressure and don't detonate. And you also don't want to know what tractor trailer tires run at... 90+PSI is not uncommon.

 

[nk14zp]

Did you check the brake drums to see if any are hot?

 

[maddeuce360]

already, checked on engines ( joking ) i was just wondering about how they drive since this is my firsty. im aware of downshifting and its not a ferrari and the transfer case needs to be in high range and the tires shouldn't be flat. I was just wondering about the normal speed it should take to pull hills without a load. im sure when i change all the fuel filters that will solve the problem. the truck is suppose to only have 3800 miles on it and i wouldnt be surprised if the filters were never touched. thanks for all the help, im sure ill have more stupid ???'s in the future

 

[gunboy1656]

Most of the hills I run I make it down to 40 or so. That is on I376.

 

[Seth_O]

Small is relative, so not sure what your hills look like, however I bought my deuce and drove it from Salt Lake City to Sacramento so right over the Sierra Nevadas. I would not call that a small hill, and never got below ~45mph even while towing an M105.

If you're truly getting down to ~25mph going up a hill, I would check for a problem before turning up the fuel. Check the fuel, check the air, check your filters. Any of those could cause you to bog down under load. If all those are good, start looking at your IP and your throttle adjustment. It might be helpful to have another owner in the area take a look at it and take it for a spin. I have found my deuce drives unlike any other vehicle I have owned, so tough to say what is 'normal'.

 

[lavarok]

One thing I've learned is don't ever assume that soldier A or B followed the TM or any specifications when working on your truck.

I picked up a M109A3 once that was a fresh rebuild. The fuel was turned down so low the truck would barely get out of its own way.

It was the start of my adventure in "turning up the pump". There are many threads here on how to do it for specific pumps. Just make sure you follow the procedure and mind any precautions. On my first attempt, I ended up breaking the fuel metering rod. I now have a 1/2" wrench ground down very thin just for the task of holding that inner nut steady so I don't break any more in the future!

Good luck!

 

[jmh4x4]

you never mentioned if it was a turbo or non turbo, my non turbo is slow as all on hills, but usualy bottoms out at 30 mph

 

[KsM715]

I don' think you understand what you are saying.

Turning up tire pressure to max rated is not going to do anything you mentioned. If you READ THE M35A2 TMs you MUST INCREASE TIRE PRESSURE TO HANDLE THE 10,000 load RATING APPROVED FOR HARD SURFACE ROADS!!! *GASP* You will run much more than 50PSI!!! *GASP*

The change in ride is BETTER and SMOOTHER. Your tire will not pop when you hit a pothole, nor will the rim burst.

Tire Tech Information - North American Load and Pressure Markings

"It is important to note that the maximum load is rated at an industry specified tire inflation pressure that is often lower then the tire's absolute maximum tire pressure. The tire pressures used to determine the maximum load the tire is rated to carry is based on the sizing system industry standards applied to the tire."


Like the 3000 mile oil change MYTH (started by *GASP* JIFFI LUBE!!!!) this myth of not running at max is full of just plain uninformed people spouting off sales jibberish.


The 3,000 Mile Oil Change Myth and Scam | Money Blue Book

"The 3,000 Mile Myth
The long handed down concept of the 3000 miles oil change was the brain child of Jiffy Lube and propagated by oil industry officials."

If you have proof of a tire blowing becuase it hit a pothole at max pressure, or that GL-5/MT-1 ruins gearboxes, or any of the other common myths, please post. Hint, you don't.

FYI, trailer tires can run over 100psi. Fully loaded. So your 'blow outs' and 'destroyed rims' theory falls flat... they hit the same holes, at a much higher pressure and don't detonate. And you also don't want to know what tractor trailer tires run at... 90+PSI is not uncommon.

Just to be clear, are we talking about the same thing? I take your first post as you run your tires at the max rated pressure as marked on the side of you tires? is that correct?

Secondly, did I say anything about tire failure or rim failure by running tires at max pressure? NO. I simply stated that running your tires at max pressure WHEN YOUR NOT LOADED DOWN will not help with the with the power falling off when going up hill, Yes I agree that a higher pressure will give you less rolling resistance but it will, I say again, it will increase wear on the center of the tire, on a round profile NDT you wil not notice it as much as you would with a more squared off tread.

If you want start a thread/poll asking members to post up weather they run max pressure or they adjust the tire pressure to the best comprimise between wear and ride comfort.

Gasp and sigh and roll your eyes all you want. You not going to change anyones mind or show that "oh he must be right" Just because you can type it.



This will be my last reply in this thread concerning TP (were pretty close to breaking the rules about arguing)

 

[maddeuce360]

it has a "d" turbo on it

 

[Karl kostman]

I just helped recover a 72 M-35A2 with a buddy from Ellsworth AFB in Rapid City and its pretty hilly out there and on the drive East across SD there are some big long hills on the interstate and we maintained 40 MPH up and over all these hills only even thinking about downshifting once so the answer is NO your situation is not normal, follow the filter advice and if that does not fix your problem you may have some other deeper issues with your truck! Good Luck!
KK

 

[m-35tom]

mine with .69 od will do most if not all hills on I83 in PA pretty easily. fuel is turned up to max safe rate (1200°f pre turbo) i would estimate it is making at least 200 hp. max torque is around 1900 rpm so even when it does slow, it only slows that much.

first and easiest test, put a pressure gauge on the intake at the 1/8" pipe plug. 9psi is stock, 14 psi is close to max and should not be run at without a pyro. at the same time the fuel pressure should be around 70 psi at final filter.

tom

 

[Barrman]

Do as suggested. Change out all 3 fuel filters, make sure the in tank fuel pump is working, make sure the fuel line under the radiator isn't flattened out from a fork lift and change or at least check your air filter. Then put a few tons of stuff in the back and go drive it with a fresh tank of fuel for about 100 miles. Push it up the hills, let it run on the flats around 2300-2500 rpm. By the time you get back home, unload it and try the same hill again. You will think you are in a sports car.

If not, then IP work might be in your future.