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Deuce Front End Alignment????

No problemo! I've done a bit of study of geometry dealing with choppers (bikes, not helecopters) as if the front end geometry isn't correct, the bike will handle like doo doo.
Some people have a head for geometry and some others it makes smoke come outta thier ears! lol [thumbzup]
 

Blueduce

Member
425
1
18
Location
Dallas, Tx
Okay Red, I did my measurements and if I got it right I am toe in 3/16. That's only 1/16 off what the TM suggests. Is that 1/16 going to make that big of a difference that outside of my passanger side tire should be wearing so unevenly. Incase your wondering my tire pressure is good at 50psi and my tie rod/ends seem to be in good shape. The cupping you can see is all the way around the tread.
 

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Right on Blue, a good friend of mine has been an OTR driver for years and according to him, as long as you're between 1/8th and 1/4th inch of toe-in, you should be fine. How much toe-in did you have before? That's about what my front tires looked like with 2 inches of toe-in after my 580-mile recovery trip home with my deuce. I can't wait to get some radial tires and kiss those dang rock-hard NDTs goodbye![thumbzup]
 

Blueduce

Member
425
1
18
Location
Dallas, Tx
I was between 1/8 and 1/4 toe in. Those measurements where taken with out any adjustments. My toe in was only 1/16 out and I am still cupping like this. That's my issue.
 

Clay James

Member
524
4
18
Location
Reno/NV
Check your shocks. Mine was cupping like that until I replaced them. They were completely shot with no resistance at all. The ride is way smoother now too. Haven't checked toe in yet.
 
OK Blue, silly question: Have you checked your front bearing pre-load? If you've got any play in the front hubs, that could cause it. I don't understand how old dead shocks can cause off-center tread cupping like that. I'm stumped on this one!
:???:
 

Clay James

Member
524
4
18
Location
Reno/NV
Which shocks dd you buy?
Monroe 66903
OK Blue, silly question: Have you checked your front bearing pre-load? If you've got any play in the front hubs, that could cause it. I don't understand how old dead shocks can cause off-center tread cupping like that. I'm stumped on this one!
:???:
I adjust my bearings so there is a very slight amount of play or they get really hot. I'm not sure about the shocks either but other people have reported it fixed their cupping and it fixed mine too.
 
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OK Guys, I think I figured it out. Think this one over and see if it makes sense to you too. Bad shocks will cause excessive outer tire wear because when the suspension compresses at higher speeds (don't laugh) because as the axle comes up, the angle of the link from the pittman arm changes forcing the left wheel to momentarily crank to the right, thus grinding on the outer surface of the left tire. As the suspension rebounds back up, the angle of the steering link pulls the steering left grinding on outside of the right front wheel.
Walk out to your deuces and stick your head between the left front fender and the wheel and look at the link from the pittman arm to the arm on the axle knuckle. Compression of the suspension will push the wheel right, rebound will drag the wheels left. Sound about right?
:jumpin:
 

Blueduce

Member
425
1
18
Location
Dallas, Tx
OK Guys, I think I figured it out. Think this one over and see if it makes sense to you too. Bad shocks will cause excessive outer tire wear because when the suspension compresses at higher speeds (don't laugh) because as the axle comes up, the angle of the link from the pittman arm changes forcing the left wheel to momentarily crank to the right, thus grinding on the outer surface of the left tire. As the suspension rebounds back up, the angle of the steering link pulls the steering left grinding on outside of the right front wheel.
Walk out to your deuces and stick your head between the left front fender and the wheel and look at the link from the pittman arm to the arm on the axle knuckle. Compression of the suspension will push the wheel right, rebound will drag the wheels left. Sound about right?
:jumpin:
It makes sense to me. "The link from the pitman arm to the axle knuckle" do you mean the drag link? And no I haven't checked my shocks or my Front bearing preload. I would have no Idea how to check that. Is there a TM that covers it.
 
Yes, I meant the drag link. And bearing pre-load is a fancy term for how hard the axle nut squeezes in on the bearings. Too much bearing pre-load equals hot hubs after a long drive. I'm pretty sure there's something in the TM about how tight the axle nuts should be.
:driver:
 

Blueduce

Member
425
1
18
Location
Dallas, Tx
Yes, I meant the drag link. And bearing pre-load is a fancy term for how hard the axle nut squeezes in on the bearings. Too much bearing pre-load equals hot hubs after a long drive. I'm pretty sure there's something in the TM about how tight the axle nuts should be.
:driver:

Okay fellas, Front end is fixed. After a few hours under her and a few bouts of Tourette's and a couple busted knuckles I decided to take it to the shop. I'm glad I did. I wouldn't have been able to fix her in the driveway. I watched and asked a crap load of questions as they unFUBARed my truck. Come to find out that the toe in was as I measured it at 3/16 toe in. I had them pull it straight on since I have a 795mile trip to Colorado coming up soon. My axle was not square to the frame and the camber was a + 1%. No wonder I was having to fight it down the road. I had them re-square the axle/springs to the frame and add 3% shims the bring the camber to -2%. She drives like a dream on ice. Next I have to deal with my rear ends. Both are out of square and not in line. Rear axle is left of center by 3/4 of an inch and inboard axle is right of center by 1 1/16 inch.
 

Blueduce

Member
425
1
18
Location
Dallas, Tx
Oh, almost forgot. My tie rod ends, king pin bushings, drag link, and pre-load all checked out. I will pull the shocks off this weekend to check them out. Thanks Clay.
 

Blueduce

Member
425
1
18
Location
Dallas, Tx
The alignment was $170 the shims and the camber work where $125 = $295 total. The owner was a Vietnam Vet so he loved the truck and took pity on me and my lack of funds so he only charged me $150 for everything and I promised to hand out some of his cards to my friends.
 

steelandcanvas

Well-known member
6,187
85
48
Location
Southwestern Idaho
That's a good deal, you came out smellin' like a rose on that one. [thumbzup] I put a brand new set of shocks on my Deuce a few weeks ago, with the little bit I've driven it since then, it seems not to wander so bad on the interstate where most of my driving is done. The old shocks were not leaking, and even had some dampening left in them, but the replacement seemed to cure my wandering problem. Next step is to check toe-in/out and then go from there. I really hope I don't need as much work as you had done, finding a 'Nam Vet that knows truck suspensions, loves my truck, and is willing to give a me a break, might be difficult to find around these parts. :whistle:
 

evil deuce

New member
5
0
1
Location
nc asheboro
I'm needing to replace my front shocks on my A3 and just wondering why no one is using factory NOS shocks? Are they hard to find or are they no good? Just wondering why everyone is using the Monroe shocks?
 

Blueduce

Member
425
1
18
Location
Dallas, Tx
I'm needing to replace my front shocks on my A3 and just wondering why no one is using factory NOS shocks? Are they hard to find or are they no good? Just wondering why everyone is using the Monroe shocks?
All of the NOS shocks I've seen for my A2 have been upwards of $80 to $90 a piece. Not to mention most of the NOS shocks have been sitting around for what? 10, 15 maybe even 20 years depending. They may look good when you get them but think of it this way If you went to your local parts house and he sold you a pair of shocks that had been sitting on his shelf for that long would you buy them. Gasses leak, seals dry rot and fail. No thanks. Secondly, the Monroe shocks work just as well if not better than the old stock shocks. Plus the Monroe shocks can be had for under $40 a piece.
 
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