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Probably lost when the site crashed a few years ago.
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
Deuce heater options
- Thread starter nhdiesel
- Start date
SasquatchSanta hasn't been here in a couple of years. Many times links from old threads (this one is 5 years old) do not work as the site has crashed a couple of times and has been thru a couple of upgrades.
By using the Google custom search for the broken link titles the old threads can be found
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?14254-Forty-Below-Zero-Deuce
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?5534-DISCUSSION-Slobbering-Multifuel-Cure
By using the Google custom search for the broken link titles the old threads can be found
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?14254-Forty-Below-Zero-Deuce
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?5534-DISCUSSION-Slobbering-Multifuel-Cure
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rustystud
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Actually this statement about the buses giving enough heat is wrong now. Most busses today need an auxiliary heater unit which burns fuel (just like the military artic unit) to heat the insides of the bus. If the cooling system is not properly sized to the engine, it will not heat-up. The reason the military system is the way it is, is so the trucks can go from the desert to the artic without much modification. Just use a radiator cover for the engine, and an artic kit for the passengers in severe cold conditionsWrapping the lines around anything to increase the heat before it enters the heater core circumvents the purpose of the thermostat; to keep the water in the cooling system from reaching high temps and building pressure as steam, blowing the cooling system to the moon and melting down the engine.
Civilian diesels do not use anything but water heat systems so I am not sure why anybody needs anything more than that? Even rear engine diesels like city buses and concrete mixers put out enough heat through the cooling system to operate them in the winter. The lines for them travel 20-30 feet inside the frame of the truck before it hits the heater core in the cab area and it still puts out enough heat.
If you need more heat try insulating the lines, blocking the radiator from air flow or replace the thermo, but altering the system to bi-pass the thermostat and add more heat is a bad idea in general.
Anybody see the mythbuster where they took the thermostat off of a hot water heater and turned it on? It ended up being a very large boom
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Another Ahab
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I don't have a clue, but I'm betting that someone here does.
That looks like your first post here on SS, so:
- Here's a welcome to you from Virginia.
That looks like your first post here on SS, so:
- Here's a welcome to you from Virginia.
rcflyer70
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If you can't find help through an existing link, let me know and I'll help you anyway I can. I just finished hooking up a fuel fired heater in my M52A2. They work great.
Another Ahab
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When I first noticed your post I thought your location said Freeze, MN. That was funny.
That would be a great name for a town in MN.
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74M35A2
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I have a complete NOS fuel fired heater for sale for anybody that wants a warm cab even before the engine starts. PM for info. It is a rare complete M35A2 bed arctic heater kit, but uses the same Stewart Warner 30,000 btu fuel fired unit. People have mounted these underhood and in cab above the passanger foot area. All ducts, control box, wiring, fasteners, brackets, and exhaust are there, in unopened wooden crate.
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For how to start it, place setting on low (I use hi), and hold lever to start until control box light comes on, then release to run. If it does not fire, remove glow plug, and pour some diesel fuel down the tube to wet the wick, try again, the exhaust will smoke like crazy, but it will then likely work fine. The wicks dry out. They will not run on hi setting in temps over 60F.
Many thanks to gimpyrobb and Cranetruck for educating me on these.
If you want to improve the coolant type heater, ditch the constant drive radiator fan, move to an electric one on a thermostatic switch, automated. Easy to do. Ridiculous to be spinning a fan away while driving down the road. 30's technology that is OK to improve now. Diesels don't make heat until they are under load. Even an idling one can cool off compared to operating under load.
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For how to start it, place setting on low (I use hi), and hold lever to start until control box light comes on, then release to run. If it does not fire, remove glow plug, and pour some diesel fuel down the tube to wet the wick, try again, the exhaust will smoke like crazy, but it will then likely work fine. The wicks dry out. They will not run on hi setting in temps over 60F.
Many thanks to gimpyrobb and Cranetruck for educating me on these.
If you want to improve the coolant type heater, ditch the constant drive radiator fan, move to an electric one on a thermostatic switch, automated. Easy to do. Ridiculous to be spinning a fan away while driving down the road. 30's technology that is OK to improve now. Diesels don't make heat until they are under load. Even an idling one can cool off compared to operating under load.
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rustystud
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I plan on installing two 24volt fans I bought this summer. It will be connected into my Fording system also. Your right about the fan. All your doing is wasting power and fuel. Usually I wouldn't remove a good fan and I like "simple" over "complicated" any day, but our fans have a tendency to rust and loosen up the rivets and let the blades fly through the radiator !
Just ask Gimpyrobb.