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Deuce power steering conversion

Heath_h49008

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Gringeltaube, do you have either part numbers, donor truck data, or measurements for the drag link and pitman arm you used?

This question is open to anyone who has done this mod. I can get the box for <$200 from a junkyard, but it's out of the truck on a shelf. I will have to find the other parts by number/application, or by dimensional cross reference.
 

JasonS

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Gringeltaube, do you have either part numbers, donor truck data, or measurements for the drag link and pitman arm you used?

This question is open to anyone who has done this mod. I can get the box for <$200 from a junkyard, but it's out of the truck on a shelf. I will have to find the other parts by number/application, or by dimensional cross reference.
I had a custom sleeve made which uses common off the shelf tie rod ends. The pitman arm is whatever came on the box (Ford).
 

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gringeltaube

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...... do you have either part numbers, donor truck data, or measurements for the drag link and pitman arm you used?
..........
No part#s, sorry. Just good info and pics to hopefully help find the correct goodies...
These Ross PS boxes normally come complete with bracket, arm and draglink, like pictured here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-.../15916-power-steering-deuce-2.html#post158740
Some typical applications are listed here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-.../15916-power-steering-deuce-3.html#post488815
As for the stock Ford 9" pitman arm itself it can be used as is but a shorter one, 7.5" C-C would be optimal. This post explains why: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-...1123-deuce-hyd-power-steering.html#post870237
Not sure though, if a 7"-7.5" arm can be found factory made... See last pic here: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce-.../15916-power-steering-deuce-4.html#post489131
The attached drawing shows draglink movement relative to arm lenght.
Another (minor) mod to that Ford arm, pictured below....

G.
 

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Heath_h49008

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That 9" arm will reduce the box's mechanical advantage, and effectively "Quicken" the steering ratio. I think I understand your logic.

I have the machine shop of a modest college at my disposal... I could whittle one out if I have to. I can make a drag link as well with two tie rod ends and jam nuts. The drag link should be easy... the pitman arm, not so easy.
 

gringeltaube

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...... The drag link should be easy... the pitman arm, not so easy.
Yes, it depends mainly on your skills to modify what does exist out there...
At the same time I'm aware that I shouldn't even mention welding these parts... More or less I know what I do, where and how... but I don't want to feel responsible for what others do... (or fail to do!)

G.
 

Heath_h49008

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Welding would be the easiest way to modify the factory pitman arm for optimal length, obviously. If I do it, I will be quiet about it and make certain it's done right.

However, using a chunk of quality bar stock threaded for the tie rod ends and secured with jam nuts should be far stronger than most adjustable steering links.

JasonS, have you noticed any issues with running the longer pitman? You must be able to crank it into the "Rub" zone when you try to run the wheel post to post... but other than having to be careful has it caused any issues?
 

JasonS

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Welding would be the easiest way to modify the factory pitman arm for optimal length, obviously. If I do it, I will be quiet about it and make certain it's done right.

However, using a chunk of quality bar stock threaded for the tie rod ends and secured with jam nuts should be far stronger than most adjustable steering links.

JasonS, have you noticed any issues with running the longer pitman? You must be able to crank it into the "Rub" zone when you try to run the wheel post to post... but other than having to be careful has it caused any issues?
My pitman arm is 8.5" long and works fine. It is a compromise of steering force and turns ratio. Make sure that you get the 1500 psi box to maximize the force. The only real drawback is that it does not move through its full range of motion to open the relief valves at the end and let trapped air escape. This complicates the iniitial install but shoudl be fine thereafter.
 

Heath_h49008

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My pitman arm is 8.5" long and works fine. It is a compromise of steering force and turns ratio. Make sure that you get the 1500 psi box to maximize the force. The only real drawback is that it does not move through its full range of motion to open the relief valves at the end and let trapped air escape. This complicates the iniitial install but shoudl be fine thereafter.
So, you worked the air out with the drag link off?

This looks like a nice mod to pair with hydroboost dual-circuit brakes.
 

andytk5

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I was wondering if anybody has just used a ram to assist at a standstill since rolling steering isnt as difficult. Notsure how that works if you have different turns lock to lock between ram and steering box? Then again here is something like you were talking about. I think he is using an orbital valve and not a column/steering box.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=flKLRFACmxo[/media]
 
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andytk5

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Also heard some guys have used GM pumps witht he HF54 steering setups but not sure of the flow or psi specs. Maybe from some of the heavier duty GM trucks? P-style pumps seem to meet the lower end of the specs for the HF54 boxes.





5ton pumps are like unicorns lately..
 

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bones1

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The kit is finished and for sale, but not on the website yet. Brett says it works real well with big tire combos. Complete bolt on kit with new steering wheel, p/s gearbox, pump and all parts, brackets,hoses and pieces included.$3000
He is emailing me some pictures today.
Brett's phone # is 1-800-748-4269
 
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